Overview:
This travelogue, written by Julia Ward Howe in 1860, provides a fascinating glimpse into Cuba during a pivotal period in its history. The author offers a vivid account of the island’s vibrant culture, from the bustling marketplaces of Havana to the picturesque landscapes of San Antonio de los Baños. Throughout the journey, Howe observes the island’s social hierarchy, highlighting the complex relationships between Creoles, Spaniards, and enslaved people. She also explores the prevailing attitudes towards slavery, including the Cuban slave laws and the realities of life on a plantation. Howe’s sharp observations and insightful commentary offer a valuable window into a time of transition and conflict.
Key Findings:
- The text offers a firsthand perspective on Cuba’s social and economic landscapes, including the prevalence of slavery and the influence of Spanish colonial rule.
- Howe’s observations reveal the complexities of race relations in Cuba, demonstrating a blend of familiarity and tension between Creoles, Spaniards, and enslaved people.
- The text highlights the role of religion in Cuban society, showcasing both the rituals of the Catholic Church and the attitudes of various individuals towards religious practice.
- Howe’s critique of the Cuban government exposes its corrupt practices, its oppressive policies, and the ongoing struggle for social justice.
Learning:
- Cuban Society: The reader learns about the diverse social strata in Cuba, including the Creoles, Spaniards, and enslaved people, and how their interactions shaped the island’s cultural landscape.
- Creoles: These individuals are descendants of Spanish settlers, often characterized as having a unique blend of Spanish and African influences, with a distinct cultural identity.
- Spaniards: The Spanish authorities held significant power and control over the island, imposing their laws and policies, and contributing to the social and economic hierarchy.
- Slavery: The text offers a detailed account of the realities of slavery in Cuba, including the conditions on plantations, the treatment of enslaved people, and the prevailing attitudes toward their enslavement.
- Cuban Culture: The reader gains insights into the daily life of Cubans, their social customs, and their unique blend of Spanish and African traditions.
- Volantes: Howe describes the iconic Cuban volantes, the horse-drawn carriages used for transportation, and their role in social interactions.
- Food: The text details the culinary traditions of Cuba, highlighting the use of tropical fruits and spices, and the influence of both Spanish and African cuisines.
- Music: Howe emphasizes the importance of music in Cuban culture, describing various musical forms and the prevalence of music in both formal and informal gatherings.
- Cuban Politics: The reader gains understanding of the complex relationship between Cuba and Spain, the influence of the Spanish government, and the struggle for Cuban independence.
- Colonial Rule: Howe’s account highlights the oppressive nature of Spanish colonial rule, exposing the corrupt practices of the government, its discriminatory policies, and its lack of investment in the island’s well-being.
- Filibusters: The text mentions the presence of American filibusters, individuals seeking to overthrow Spanish rule and establish American influence, highlighting the political tensions of the time.
Historical Context:
The text was written in 1860, a time of great unrest and change in Cuba. The island was under Spanish colonial rule, and the struggle for independence was gaining momentum. This period was also marked by increased American interest in Cuba, fueled by economic ambitions and the expansion of slavery. The text captures these tensions, providing insight into the complex political landscape of the time.
Facts:
- Sugar Production: Cuba is a major producer of sugar, with vast plantations employing enslaved labor to cultivate and harvest the crop.
- Coffee Production: Cuba also cultivates coffee on numerous plantations, often employing shade trees to protect the delicate plants.
- Lack of Local Produce: Nassau, the Bahamas, imports most of its necessities, including hay, corn, butter, flour, and tea, due to limited local production.
- Bahama Banks: The treacherous Bahama Banks are notorious for shipwrecks, which provide a source of income for the local population.
- Price of Goods: The cost of living in Nassau is relatively high, with items like milk and butter being significantly more expensive than in the United States.
- Tropical Climate: The tropical climate of Cuba is marked by intense heat, frequent rainfall, and humidity, impacting both the daily life of the islanders and the health of travelers.
- Prevalence of Mosquitoes: Mosquitoes are a constant nuisance throughout the island, requiring travelers to use mosquito nets for protection.
- Corruption of Officials: The Spanish government is rife with corruption, with officials often engaging in acts of bribery and illicit financial practices.
- Cuban Social Hierarchy: A strict social hierarchy exists in Cuba, with Spaniards and Creoles occupying positions of power and privilege, while enslaved people are relegated to a subservient position.
- Limited Education for Girls: The education system in Cuba offers limited opportunities for girls, with the curriculum focused on traditional domestic skills, such as sewing and household tasks.
- Coolie Labor: Coolie workers, brought from India under indentured labor contracts, are often subjected to harsh working conditions and exploitation.
- Slave Laws: The Cuban slave laws, while more humane than those in the United States, are not always effectively enforced, leaving many enslaved people vulnerable to abuse.
- Prevalence of Mixed Race: There is a significant level of intermingling between black and white races in Cuba, reflected in the presence of numerous individuals of mixed descent, referred to as Creoles.
- Limited Arts and Culture: Cuban society is not known for its development of the arts, with a lack of appreciation for visual arts and a focus on musical forms that are often considered noisy or repetitive.
- Cockfighting: Cockfighting is a popular form of entertainment in Cuba, with significant financial stakes involved in these contests.
- Norther Winds: The Norther, a strong cold wind that blows through Cuba, can cause illness and discomfort, particularly for those who are already weakened by tropical diseases.
- President’s Message: The term “President’s Message” is used to refer to a common cold, reflecting the perceived impact of political rhetoric on health.
- Cuban Diet: The Cuban diet is characterized by the use of tropical fruits, vegetables, and meats, often prepared with a combination of Spanish and African culinary influences.
- Religious Practices: The influence of the Catholic Church is evident in Cuban society, with religious practices playing a role in both daily life and special occasions.
Statistics:
- Hotel Costs: Hotel costs in Cuba are relatively high, with rooms in Havana and San Antonio costing $3-$3.50 per day.
- Railway Costs: Cuban railways are expensive, costing ten cents per mile.
- Game Chickens: A plantation owner in Matanzas keeps 140 game chickens for training and fighting.
- Game Chicken Value: A single game chicken can be worth up to six ounces (about $100).
- Slave Wages: A slave on a sugar plantation can earn about 25 dollars per week.
- Negro Savings: A group of enslaved workers on one plantation has accumulated $2,000 in savings.
- Flour Tax: A barrel of wheaten flour imported from the United States is subject to an $8 tax.
- Fish Monopoly: All the fish caught in Cuba is controlled by a single individual, Señor Marti, resulting in a high price of 25 cents per pound.
- Number of Slaves: The population of enslaved people in Cuba is significant, though the precise number is not provided in the text.
- Number of Children: Doña Tomasita, the wife of Don Juan Sanchez, has seven children.
- Price of a Slave Child: A slave child can be purchased for $30 at birth, with the price increasing as the child ages.
- Price of Teapot: A teapot that costs 25 cents in Boston can cost $1 in San Antonio.
- Price of a Volante: A volante in Matanzas can be rented for $6 per day, while a four-wheeled carriage costs $2 per hour.
- Price of Vignettes: A set of vignettes depicting Cuban scenes can be purchased for 5 reals.
Terms:
- Cafetal: Coffee plantation
- Mayoral: Overseer of a plantation
- Volante: Horse-drawn carriage
- Calesero: Cuban coachman
- Granizada: A half-frozen water ice
- Capa: A Spanish cloak
- Ayacco: A Cuban country stew
- Contra-danza: A type of Cuban dance
- Ghirra: A gourd filled with dry seeds used as a percussion instrument
- Pobre padre: “Poor father”
- Porquería: “Dirt”
- Calentura: A type of tropical fever
- Flussion: A severe cold
- Polvorin: “Powder magazine” – term for a severe cold in San Antonio
- Buenos noches: “Good night”
- Ay, Caramba: Spanish exclamation
- Señora: “Madam”
- Muy bonito: “Very beautiful”
- Nada: “Nothing”
Examples:
- Can Grande’s Departure: The author describes the departure of Can Grande, a character with a strong personality and a disdain for Cuban life, highlighting the challenges of travel and the difficulty of finding comfort in unfamiliar settings.
- Don Juan Torres: The author recounts a visit to Don Juan Torres’s coffee plantation, illustrating the hospitality of the Cuban elite, but also the dangers of overindulging in unfamiliar fruits.
- Don Jacinto Gonzales: The author describes a visit to Don Jacinto’s sugar plantation, exposing the realities of slavery, the harsh conditions faced by enslaved people, and the role of overseers in enforcing discipline.
- The Morro Fortress: The author details the challenges of visiting the Morro Fortress, emphasizing the Spanish government’s reluctance to allow foreigners access to this strategic military stronghold.
- The Beneficenza: The author recounts a visit to the Beneficenza, a charitable institution that serves as an orphan asylum and foundling hospital, highlighting the plight of abandoned children and the institution’s role in providing care and support.
- The Dominica: The author describes the Dominica, a bustling café in Havana, showcasing the diverse clientele, the popularity of coffee and ice cream, and the presence of individuals involved in the lottery business.
- Don Pepe de la Luz: The author’s encounter with Don Pepe de la Luz, a Cuban philanthropist and educator, highlights the value of education, the challenges faced by individuals who advocate for social change, and the power of individual action.
- The Cockpit: The author describes a visit to a cockfighting establishment, offering insight into the cultural significance of cockfighting and the passion of its patrons.
- Don Manuel Rodriguez: The author’s encounter with Don Manuel Rodriguez, a wealthy individual who indulges in cockfighting, reveals the dangers of gambling and the potential for obsession.
- The Norther: The author describes the effects of the Norther, a cold wind that sweeps through Cuba, showcasing its impact on health and the change in atmosphere it brings to the island.
- Don Juan Sanchez: The author’s visit to the home of Don Juan Sanchez, a wealthy planter, demonstrates the luxurious lifestyle of the Cuban elite and the prevalence of multiple generations living together in large households.
- Maria Luisa: The author’s encounters with Maria Luisa, a young Cuban woman, highlight the social expectations placed on women in Cuban society, including the limitations on their movement and the importance of chaperones.
- The Ensor House: The author’s stay at the Ensor House in Matanzas exposes the shortcomings of American hotels in Cuba, highlighting the lack of comfort, the high cost, and the questionable practices of the owners.
Conclusion:
Julia Ward Howe’s “A Trip to Cuba” offers a fascinating and insightful glimpse into a period of great change in Cuba’s history. Through her vivid descriptions, sharp observations, and insightful commentary, Howe exposes the complexities of Cuban society, the realities of slavery, and the ongoing struggle for independence. The text highlights the island’s natural beauty, the vibrancy of its culture, and the diversity of its people, while also revealing the injustices and inequalities that were prevalent at the time. As the reader navigates Howe’s journey through Cuba, they gain a deeper understanding of the historical context of the island and its people, and the challenges and opportunities that shaped their lives.