A Wanderer in Paris Informative Summary

Overview:

“A Wanderer in Paris” by E.V. Lucas is a delightful travelogue offering a glimpse into the heart of Paris in 1909. The book, written from the perspective of a perceptive outsider, delves into the city’s rich history, from its Roman origins to the grandeur of the Napoleonic era. Lucas masterfully blends historical anecdotes with observations on the city’s unique charm, its vibrant street life, and its enduring character. He captures the spirit of Paris through its grand architecture, bustling markets, and even its quirky inhabitants.

Lucas leads the reader on a journey through the Ile de la Cité, the Marais, the Champs-Elysees, and the Latin Quarter, showcasing each district’s unique history and atmosphere. He shares fascinating stories about historical figures like St. Louis, Marie Antoinette, and Napoleon, bringing their presence to life within the city’s walls. His insightful commentary goes beyond mere description, offering reflections on the city’s enduring character, its relationship with its citizens, and the subtle differences between French and English culture.

Key Findings:

Paris’s enduring character: Lucas emphasizes how Paris remains remarkably unchanged despite the passage of time, offering a timeless experience for both tourists and locals alike.
The significance of history: Paris is steeped in history, with each building, street, and square holding echoes of past events and personalities.
The French love of life: The Parisians, despite their tumultuous history, have a profound love for life, evident in their vibrant street life, their devotion to pleasure, and their enduring spirit.
The contrast between England and France: Lucas highlights the distinct differences in character, priorities, and lifestyle between the two nations, emphasizing the Parisian appreciation for beauty, leisure, and the finer things in life, in contrast to English practicality and ambition.

Learning:

The role of the concierge: The concierge, a unique feature of Parisian apartment living, holds a surprising amount of power and influence over the lives of residents, showcasing a different relationship with personal privacy compared to English culture.
The significance of the “green hour”: The “green hour” highlights the French appreciation for leisure and the joy of social interaction in public spaces, something rarely observed in England.
The Parisian attitude towards facts and emotion: The French tend to embrace facts and confront emotional experiences openly, while English culture often seeks to avoid or downplay them.
The Parisian love of theater: The Parisian devotion to theater, with its emphasis on words and emotions, contrasts with the English preference for visual storytelling and character development.
The Parisian love of dogs: The French demonstrate an extraordinary love for dogs, treating them with affection, giving them a prominent place in public life, and even honoring them with elaborate funerals.

Historical Context:

The text is set in 1909, just before the outbreak of World War I. Paris is a city still recovering from the destruction of the Commune in 1871 and is experiencing a period of significant economic and cultural growth. The city is undergoing a process of modernization and expansion, as evidenced by the construction of new boulevards and the development of the Champs-Elysees. However, echoes of the French Revolution and the Napoleonic era remain strong, influencing the city’s identity and its relationship with its past.

Facts:

Paris was originally named Lutetia. The name was changed to Parisea Civitas in the reign of Julian the Apostate, a Roman Emperor.
The Ile de la Cité was the original heart of Paris. It housed the first Roman palace and remained the center of government during the Merovingian and Carlovingian dynasties.
Saint Louis, king from 1226 to 1270, was a major force in shaping the Ile de la Cité. He built Sainte Chapelle, surrendered part of the palace to the Law, and established the Sorbonne.
The Pont Neuf is Paris’s oldest bridge, though it has been renovated recently. It was built during the reign of Henri IV.
The statue of Henri IV. on the Pont Neuf is actually made of bronze from melted Napoleon statues. This exemplifies the ironies of French history and the nation’s shifting allegiances.
The Tour de l’Horloge is the oldest exposed timepiece in France. It dates from 1299 and has been restored several times.
The French Revolution was a period of immense social and political upheaval for Paris. It saw the destruction of many religious institutions, the rise of the Cult of Reason, and the execution of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.
Napoleon I. played a significant role in shaping modern Paris. He oversaw the rebuilding of the city after the Revolution, commissioning many important structures and monuments.
The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel was originally crowned with horses from St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice. These horses were later returned to Venice after Napoleon’s fall.
The Tuileries Palace, a former royal residence, was burned down during the Commune in 1871. Its destruction cleared the way for the iconic vista from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe.
The Luxor column, erected in the Place de la Concorde, was a gift from Mohammed Ali and once stood before the great temple of Thebes.
The Champs-Elysees was originally planned by Marie de Médicis. It was later expanded and transformed by Napoleon.
The Parc Monceau, a beautiful park in the 8th arrondissement, is a haven for the city’s aristocracy.
The Musée Carnavalet is a treasure trove of Parisian history. It houses a collection of artifacts, paintings, and drawings that illustrate the city’s evolution over centuries.
The Musée de Cluny is a remarkable museum of medieval art and craftsmanship. It contains a diverse collection of objects from sculpture and tapestry to gold work and glass.
The Jardin des Plantes is a free zoo and botanical garden popular with Parisians. It houses a diverse collection of animals, including a large population of peacocks.
The Jardin d’Acclimatation is a paid zoo on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne. It features a variety of animal exhibits and attractions for children.
The Place de la Concorde was originally built to commemorate Louis XV. It was later used as the site for the guillotine during the Reign of Terror.
The Bibliothèque Nationale is a vast repository of books and manuscripts. It contains important historical documents, including the manuscript of Pascal’s Pensées.
The Bourse, the Paris stock exchange, is a lively and chaotic space.
The Palais Royal, once a royal palace and a hub of Parisian life, is now a largely deserted park.
The Cloître du Saint-Honoré is a well-preserved example of a medieval courtyard in Paris.
The church of St. Germain l’Auxerrois is believed to have been the origin of the signal for the St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre.
The Place des Vosges was built by Henri IV. It is one of the most beautiful squares in Paris and housed many aristocratic residents.
The Hôtel de Sens, a 15th-century palace in the Marais, is a remarkable architectural gem.
The Place de la Bastille marks the site of the notorious Bastille prison. It was stormed by the people of Paris in 1789, marking a significant moment in the French Revolution.
Père Lachaise is one of the most famous cemeteries in the world. It houses the graves of many notable French figures, including Chopin, Balzac, and Delacroix.

Statistics:

The Marais reconstruction scheme costs over £32,000,000.
The “Winged Victory of Samothrace” weighs more than a ton.
There were approximately 1,667,841 inhabitants of Paris in 1861.
The Halles des Vins contain barrels of raw wine as numerous as the sands on a seashore.
The Chapelle Expiatoire was built on the site of the old Madeleine cemetery where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were originally buried.
The Grand Hotel has a million bedrooms.
The Paris Opera covers three acres of land.
The Eiffel Tower is 20 years old in 1909.
The Sacré-Cœur bell, Françoise-Marguerite, weighs 19 tons.
The Maison Dufayel is a vast shopping center that features thousands of beds.
Père Lachaise Cemetery spans over 100 acres.
The Colonne de Juillet commemorates the deaths of 615 citizens during the 1830 revolution.
The canal that runs through Paris is approximately 12 miles long.
The Parc des Buttes-Chaumont encompasses 60 acres.

Terms:

Bouquinistes: Booksellers on the Seine’s quais.
Claque: A group of hired applauders in theaters.
Concierge: The caretaker of a Parisian building.
Créations de Frédéric: Dishes created by Chef Frédéric Delair at the Tour d’Argent restaurant.
Épicier: A grocer.
Fiacre: A type of horse-drawn cab in Paris.
Gamins: Parisian street urchins, especially young boys.
Gare: A train station.
Grands Boulevards: A series of wide boulevards that circle Paris.
Halles: Paris’s central market.
Invalides: A former military hospital, now a museum and a site for Napoleon’s tomb.
Kiosque: A small, open-air newsstand or stall.
Lou-lou: A type of lap dog, often small and fashionable.
Métro: Paris’s underground subway system.
Mouton: A sheep, often used to refer to a simple, gullible person.
Ouvrier/Ouvrière: A worker, often used to refer to a factory worker or a member of the working class.
Palais: A palace or a grand building.
Panthéon: A former church now serving as a monument to famous French citizens.
Place: A square or plaza.
Pont: A bridge.
Préfecture de Police: The headquarters of the Paris police force.
Quai: A riverside embankment.
Réveillon: New Year’s Eve celebration.
Rue: A street.
Tour: A tower.
Tou-tou: A type of small lap dog, often a terrier.
Tricoteuses: Women who knit while attending public executions.

Examples:

The Compas d’Or: This ancient inn in Rue Montorgeuil offers a glimpse into the past, with its stables, carts, and bustling courtyard.
The Conciergerie: The former royal prison, now a museum, evokes the chilling events of the French Revolution, particularly the imprisonment of Marie Antoinette.
The Musée Carnavalet: This museum, housed in a former aristocratic mansion, showcases Parisian history through artifacts, paintings, and drawings, providing a fascinating journey through the city’s evolution.
The Musée de Cluny: This museum, housed in a 15th-century mansion built on the site of a Roman palace, provides a glimpse into the craftsmanship and artistry of the Middle Ages.
The Jardin des Plantes: This free zoo and botanical garden is a testament to the French love of nature and is particularly known for its impressive peacock population.
The Place de la Concorde: This square, with its Luxor column and its history as the site of the guillotine, serves as a potent reminder of the turbulent events of the French Revolution.
The Champs-Elysees: This iconic avenue, lined with grand mansions, cafés, and shops, offers a glimpse into the grandeur of Parisian life.
The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel: This triumphal arch, built by Napoleon, stands as a testament to French military prowess and the power of the Napoleonic era.
The Tuileries Gardens: These formal gardens, once part of the Tuileries Palace, offer a peaceful respite in the heart of the city, with its charming ponds, statues, and playful children.
The Bibliothèque Nationale: This vast library, with its collection of historical documents, rare books, and manuscripts, serves as a testament to the enduring cultural legacy of France.

Conclusion:

E.V. Lucas’s “A Wanderer in Paris” offers a captivating and insightful journey into the heart of the City of Lights in 1909. Through his observant eyes, we experience the city’s vibrant streets, its grand architecture, its rich history, and its unique atmosphere. Lucas captures the essence of Paris—a city of contrasts, where old and new coexist, and where life is embraced with gusto. He highlights the Parisian love for life, their unwavering spirit, and their deep connection to their city’s past. Despite its flaws, Paris emerges as a city that inspires, charms, and leaves a lasting impression on all who visit.

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