Overview:
“A West Country Pilgrimage” by Eden Phillpotts is a captivating travelogue that takes readers on a journey through the enchanting landscapes of Devon and Cornwall. Phillpotts’s prose is both evocative and informative, painting vivid pictures of the region’s natural beauty while offering insights into its rich history and cultural significance.
The book is structured as a series of essays, each dedicated to a specific location within the West Country. Phillpotts seamlessly blends descriptions of the natural world with historical anecdotes, literary references, and personal reflections. The reader is invited to experience the rugged beauty of Dartmoor, the tranquil charm of the Exe estuary, and the dramatic coastline of Cornwall, all while gaining a deeper understanding of the people, places, and events that have shaped this unique part of England.
Key Findings:
- The West Country holds a wealth of historical significance, from the prehistoric cairns and hut circles of Dartmoor to the medieval castles and churches that dot the landscape.
- The region has been home to many notable figures, including Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, and John Ford.
- The West Country’s natural beauty is as varied as its history, encompassing vast moors, rolling hills, winding rivers, dramatic cliffs, and a coastline rich in biodiversity.
- The region’s culture is deeply rooted in its history, evident in its traditional architecture, local customs, and folklore.
Learning:
- The History of the West Country: Phillpotts’s writing provides a rich tapestry of historical information, offering insight into the region’s early inhabitants, the arrival of the Normans, and the impact of various monarchs on the area.
- Saxon and Norman Conquests: The book highlights the influence of the Saxons and the Normans on the West Country, with examples including the castles of Berry Pomeroy, Okehampton, and Tintagel.
- Tudor Era: Phillpotts explores the impact of the Tudor era on the West Country, specifically its role in the maritime trade and exploration. He mentions the port of Topsham, the shipbuilding at Exmouth, and the exploits of Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Humphrey Gilbert.
- Dartmoor: Phillpotts provides insights into the prehistoric and medieval history of Dartmoor, highlighting the importance of tin mining and the remains of ancient structures such as Siward’s Cross.
- The West Country Landscape: The book vividly describes the natural beauty of the region, from the ruggedness of Dartmoor to the rolling hills of Devon and the dramatic cliffs of Cornwall.
- Dartmoor: Readers will learn about the unique geological formation of Dartmoor and its role in shaping the landscape. The text describes the granite formations, the deep gorges carved by rivers, and the abundance of flora and fauna that thrive in this challenging environment.
- The Exe Estuary: Phillpotts describes the dynamic landscape of the Exe estuary, highlighting the interplay of sea and river, the changing tides, and the diverse habitats that it supports.
- The Cornish Coast: The book explores the breathtaking beauty of the Cornish coastline, highlighting the dramatic cliffs, secluded coves, and the diverse marine life that it attracts.
- The Literary Heritage of the West Country: Phillpotts reveals the literary legacy of the region, referencing works like Kingsley’s “Westward Ho!” and exploring the lives of notable writers like John Ford and Walter Raleigh.
Historical Context:
“A West Country Pilgrimage” was written in 1920, just after the end of World War I. The war had a profound impact on England, and Phillpotts’s writing reflects the changing social and political landscape. He mentions the legacy of Napoleon Bonaparte and the building of fortifications to defend against potential invasion. He also speaks of the enduring beauty of the West Country, a place of peace and tranquility in a time of significant upheaval.
Facts:
- Sir Walter Raleigh was born at Hayes Barton in 1552. Raleigh himself confirmed this fact, noting a strong connection to the place due to his birthplace.
- The first British settlement of Newfoundland was founded by Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1583. This marked a significant moment in British colonial history.
- Berry Pomeroy Castle was built by Radulphus de la Pomerio in the 11th century. This Norman stronghold was strategically positioned on a limestone crag, making it nearly impregnable.
- The family of the Pomeroy’s faced disaster in 1549 during a rebellion against the “Act for Reforming the Church Service.” Their defiance led to the sequestration of Berry Pomeroy Castle to the Crown.
- Sir Edward Seymour, a descendant of the Protector, was the last of his race to dwell at Berry Pomeroy. He was known for his haughty demeanor, once responding to William III.’s inquiry about his family lineage with, “Pardon, sir; the Duke of Somerset is of my family.”
- John Ford, the playwright known for his tragic and decadent works, was born at Bagtor House in 1586. His works like “The Lover’s Melancholy” and “’Tis Pity She’s a Whore” reflected the dramatic and often tragic themes of his time.
- Okehampton Castle, the only castle in Devon named in Domesday, was built by Baldwin de Redvers. The original Norman fortress has vanished, and the present ruins date back to the Perpendicular period.
- London Bridge, a landmark structure that spanned the River Thames, was built with granite quarried from Bagtor, Dartmoor. The quarried stone was transported on a granite tramway built through the moor, before being shipped down the Stover Canal and eventually transported to London.
- The construction of the “New London Bridge” in 1825 was a major event in London. The ceremony involved the laying of the foundation stone with coins, civic officials, and members of the Royal Society.
- The old London Bridge, which was a “bridge of houses,” was replaced with the “New London Bridge.” The new bridge was built with granite, and its five simple spans were a departure from the nineteen arches of the older structure.
- Tintagel Castle, located in Cornwall, is associated with the legendary King Arthur. While the existing ruin dates back to the Norman Conquest, the original British building is long gone.
- King Arthur, according to tradition, was born at Tintagel Castle. However, it is believed that he died at Camelon in Scotland.
- The West Country has a rich history of ancient crosses, which date back to both the pre-Christian and Christian periods. These crosses served as both religious and navigational markers.
- Many of the ancient crosses in Cornwall originally marked the burying places of the pagan dead. Some were later transformed into Christian memorials, indicating a gradual shift in religious belief.
- The earliest type of Christian cross typically depicted a symbolic lamb, but this was replaced with the figure of Christ in the 7th century. This change was influenced by the Eastern Church and marked a shift towards a more human representation of Christ.
Statistics:
- Sir Walter Raleigh, a notable figure from Devon, was granted the honor of knighthood by Queen Elizabeth I. This reflects the value placed on knighthood during Elizabeth’s reign, which was bestowed only upon those of exceptional merit.
- The granite tramway built to transport the stone from Bagtor to the Stover Canal was the first railroad in the West Country. This illustrates the early use of rail transport in the region.
- Over 7,000 feet of stone were cut from Bagtor for the construction of the granite tramway. This underscores the massive scale of the undertaking.
- The granite used to build the “New London Bridge” was transported 1200 feet down from Hey Tor on Dartmoor. This demonstrates the significant distance the stone traveled to reach London.
- The “New London Bridge” was opened in 1831, and its construction cost just under £1.5 million. This demonstrates the immense cost of engineering projects at that time.
- Old Delabole Slate Quarry, located in Cornwall, has been operational for over 350 years. The quarry is a testament to the long-lasting value of this natural resource.
- The Delabole quarry produces over 10,000 tons of slate every week. This highlights the significant scale of quarrying operations.
- The Delabole quarry employs over 500 men and boys. This highlights the importance of the quarry to the local economy.
- The Delabole quarry produces a variety of slate types, including “green-grey” or “abbey-grey,” “green,” and “reds.” This illustrates the diversity of the natural resource.
Terms:
- Stannators: Tin miners, particularly those who worked in the alluvial tin mines of Dartmoor.
- Cairns: A pile of stones used as a marker or monument.
- Pounds: An enclosure used for trapping game or livestock.
- Hut Circles: Circular depressions in the ground, often surrounded by a ring of stones, that mark the location of prehistoric dwellings.
- Foderatore: Raftmen in Italy, who navigated dangerous waters in their quest for transport and trade.
- Pot-holes: Round, smooth depressions in rock surfaces, carved by the swirling action of water.
- Gorge: A deep ravine, usually formed by a river cutting through rock.
- Stickle: A stretch of shallow water in a stream or river, often containing rapids or waterfalls.
- Clapper-bridge: A bridge with a flat, open deck, supported by a series of stones.
- Palimpsest: A manuscript or object that has been written or inscribed over multiple times.
Examples:
- The story of Sir Walter Raleigh’s birth at Hayes Barton: This highlights the historical significance of this humble farmhouse.
- Sir Humphrey Gilbert’s exploration of Newfoundland: This illustrates the adventurous spirit of the era and the role of the West Country in the British empire.
- The rebellion of the Pomeroy’s against the “Act for Reforming the Church Service”: This exemplifies the strong religious beliefs and the social upheaval of the time.
- The building of fortifications at Berry Head in response to the threat of Napoleon: This illustrates the anxieties and preparation for potential conflict in the early 19th century.
- The transport of granite from Bagtor to London for the construction of London Bridge: This highlights the engineering advancements and the importance of the West Country’s natural resources.
- The ceremony laying the foundation stone of the “New London Bridge”: This demonstrates the civic pride and the significance of the project for London.
- The legend of King Arthur’s birth at Tintagel Castle: This illustrates the enduring power of myth and legend.
- The ancient Cornish cross in a churchyard: This example underscores the enduring legacy of religion in the region.
- The use of pre-Christian pillar-stones as foundations for Christian crosses: This demonstrates the blending of ancient traditions and new beliefs.
Conclusion:
“A West Country Pilgrimage” is a captivating journey through the rich history and natural beauty of Devon and Cornwall. Phillpotts’s writing brings to life the region’s enduring charm, from its ancient landmarks and notable figures to the captivating landscapes that have inspired generations of writers and artists. His book invites readers to explore the West Country’s past, present, and future, leaving a lasting impression of its beauty and cultural significance.