Overview:
This book documents the incredible journey of two American students, Thomas Allen and William Sachtleben, as they cycle across Asia from Constantinople to Peking in the late 19th century. Their adventure is not just about the physical challenge, but also about the cultural and political landscapes they encounter. From the bustling bazaars of Turkey to the vast steppes of Central Asia and the rugged terrains of Western China, Allen and Sachtleben faced numerous obstacles, including political tensions, language barriers, and the constant threat of bandits. They braved harsh weather conditions, including scorching desert heat and icy mountain winds, and navigated complex social dynamics in different cultures.
Beyond the physical challenges, the book offers insightful observations on the people, customs, and political realities of the regions they traverse. They provide firsthand accounts of local traditions, religious practices, and interactions with various cultures. The book provides a fascinating window into the historical context of the late 19th century, highlighting the growing influence of Russia in Central Asia, the political instability in Persia, and the complex relationship between China and the West.
Key Findings:
- The book highlights the complexities of 19th-century Asia, showcasing the diverse cultures, political tensions, and economic realities of the region.
- It provides a firsthand account of the challenges faced by Western travelers navigating unfamiliar landscapes, languages, and political systems.
- The book sheds light on the historical context of the late 19th century, including the growing Russian influence in Central Asia, the political instability in Persia, and the complex relationship between China and the West.
Learning:
- Geography and Landscape: The book offers a detailed description of the diverse geographical landscapes of Asia, ranging from the lush valleys of the Sakaria River in Turkey to the barren steppes of Central Asia and the rugged terrain of Western China.
- The Gobi Desert: The authors’ journey through the Gobi Desert provides a vivid description of the harsh conditions faced by travelers in this unforgiving landscape. The text highlights the extreme temperatures, the lack of water, and the constant threat of sandstorms.
- Mount Ararat: The authors’ ascent of Mount Ararat is a thrilling chapter that showcases their determination and resilience. It also provides a fascinating glimpse into the mountain’s historical and religious significance.
- Culture and Customs: The book offers a firsthand account of the diverse cultures and customs of the regions they traverse.
- Turkish Society: The authors provide a detailed description of Turkish society, including their religious practices, social norms, and political realities. They also explore the role of women in Turkish society and the common superstition of the “evil eye.”
- Persian Society: The book offers a glimpse into Persian society, including the influence of Islam, the political intrigue surrounding the Shah, and the impact of Russian expansionism.
- Central Asian Cultures: The authors’ interactions with Kirghiz and Kazakh nomads reveal their nomadic lifestyle, their traditional customs, and their unique way of life.
- Chinese Society: The book provides an insightful perspective on Chinese society, highlighting the complexities of its social hierarchy, the influence of Confucianism, and the growing presence of opium. It also highlights the political and economic realities of the region.
- History and Political Landscape:
- Russian Expansion: The book highlights the growing Russian influence in Central Asia and the political tension between Russia and Persia. The authors witnessed the construction of the Transcaspian railway, a key strategy in Russia’s expansionist ambitions.
- The Great Wall of China: The authors’ encounter with the Great Wall of China provides a historical perspective on its significance in protecting the empire from nomadic invaders.
- The Dungan Rebellion: The authors highlight the impact of the Dungan Rebellion, a major conflict in northwestern China that left behind widespread destruction and instability.
Historical Context:
The book is set in the late 19th century, a time of significant change and transformation in Asia. The region was undergoing a period of growing Western influence, technological advancements, and political upheaval. The authors’ journey took place during a time of increasing Russian expansionism in Central Asia, which posed a direct threat to Persia and China. The book also highlights the Opium Wars and the growing tension between China and Western powers. The authors’ observations provide a unique and insightful perspective on the historical context of the late 19th-century world.
Facts:
- The journey covered 15,044 miles, making it the longest continuous land journey ever made around the world.
- The Trans-Bosporus Railway, a major project patronized by the Sultan, was being built and operated by a German company.
- The Angora goat’s exceptionally long fleece is a result of the unique climate of the region.
- The ancient city of Kaisarieh is filled with ruins and monuments from the Seljuk period, including evidence of the Hittites.
- The Armenian women in Kaisarieh are subject to social and economic oppression, though they have seen an improvement in their status with the rise of missionary education.
- Turkish women generally conceal their faces with a shroud-like robe called a yashmak.
- The smarmar is a type of thrush that helps farmers fight locusts in Asia Minor.
- The Kizil Irmak and Yeshil Irmak are the two largest rivers in Asia Minor.
- The Russian government was collecting war indemnity from Turkey, as stipulated in the Treaty of 1878.
- The people of Asia Minor believed that all foreigners were doctors, due to the medical work of missionaries.
- Sivas was a vital caravan center due to its strategic location at the convergence of trade routes.
- Mount Ararat is traditionally believed to be the landing site of Noah’s Ark.
- Mount Ararat is situated on the longest line drawn through the Old World from the Cape of Good Hope to Bering Strait.
- The snow-line on Mount Ararat is unusually high, due to the dry nature of the region.
- The first recorded ascent of Mount Ararat was in 1829 by Dr. Frederick Parrot, with a party of Armenians and Russian soldiers.
- The Kurds, a nomadic tribe, inhabit the slopes of Mount Ararat.
- The Russian border-line runs from Little Ararat through Great Ararat, serving as a reminder of the presence of the Russian “White Sultan.”
- The Russian camp at Sardarbulakh is located between Great and Little Ararat, on the Ararat pass.
- The region around Mount Ararat, which lies on the border of Turkey, Persia, and Russia, is a meeting-point of three empires.
- Turkish zaptiehs were often employed as escorts for travelers in Turkey, with their presence sometimes a nuisance for the travelers.
- The Mutessarif of Bayazid, the local governor, was in charge of providing protection for travelers in the region.
- The town of Bayazid lies hidden behind a spur of the mountains, offering no view of Mount Ararat until the traveler reaches the plains.
- The “Caspian Gate” is believed to be located at the Sir-Dara pass, a gateway between Persia and Russia.
- The Persian people are known for their tendency towards mendacity.
- The city of Tabreez is a significant political and commercial center in Persia, due to its proximity to the Russian border.
- The “Ark” in Tabreez, the ancient fortified castle of Persian rulers, is a prominent landmark in the city.
- Babism, a religious movement founded by Seyd Mohammed Ali, was a major source of social and political unrest in 19th-century Persia.
- The Indo-European Telegraph Company maintained a line of telegraph poles from Tabreez to Teheran, connecting Melbourne with London.
- The Kasveen plain, a former part of the Persian Mediterranean, is now largely a sandy, saline desert.
- The city of Teheran, the capital of Persia, was undergoing modernization with the development of paved streets, sidewalks, and street railways.
- General Kuropatkine, the Governor-General of Transcaspia, provided the authors with permission to travel through Russia.
- The Transcaspian railway, connecting Russia with Central Asia, was a significant element in Russia’s expansionist policy.
- The city of Samarkand, the former capital of Tamerlane, was the terminus of the Transcaspian railway.
- The city of Tashkend, the capital of Turkestan, had a diverse population of Russians, Tatars, Kirghiz, Persians, and others.
- The Russian samovar was a staple in Russian households, offering a warm and comforting drink to the population, even in remote regions.
- The Grand Duke Nicholai Constantinovitch Romanoff, the Czar’s nephew, resided in Tashkend after being exiled from the court.
- The city of Chimkend marked the beginning of a 1500-mile journey along the Celestial mountain range, connecting Russia with China.
- The Russian government had established a line of forts along the Turkestan highway, as part of its efforts to control the nomadic tribes of the steppes.
- The Turkestan steppe, a vast and largely barren region, was punctuated by small oases, which offered a lifeline for travelers and nomads.
- The Kirghiz nomads in Turkestan were known for their skills in horse riding and their nomadic lifestyle, with their yurts providing a mobile shelter.
- The city of Vernoye, with its wide streets and Russian architecture, was a significant center of Russian influence in Central Asia.
- The city of Vernoye was often affected by earthquakes, which caused significant damage and loss of life.
- The Russian Cossacks, a military force known for their horsemanship, were stationed in Vernoye and other parts of Central Asia.
- The city of Kuldja, a Chinese city with a Russian consulate, served as a gateway for trade and cultural exchange between Russia and China.
- The Dungan and Taranchis, two agricultural communities, inhabited the Ili Valley.
- The city of Kuldja was once occupied by Russia but was later evacuated, leaving behind a mix of Chinese and Russian influences.
- The city of Jarkend, a growing frontier town, was set to replace Kuldja as the main Russian settlement on the border.
- The city of Chuguchak and Kobdo were Russian trading posts on the historic highway connecting China and the West.
- The Takla Makan Sands, part of the Gobi Desert, was characterized by shifting reddish sands and limited vegetation, posing significant challenges to travelers.
- The Mongolian Gobi, or “Shamo” of the Chinese, was a vast and barren desert, with few oases and limited sources of water.
- The Great Wall of China, stretching over 1500 miles, served as a defensive barrier against nomadic invaders for centuries.
- The Kiayu-kuan, or “Jade Gate,” is a major gateway in the Great Wall, known for its connection to the Khotan country, where jade was mined.
- The Edzina River, known for its occasional flash floods, posed a challenge for travelers crossing its turbulent waters.
- Ling Darin, a Belgian man who had adopted Chinese customs and language, served as a custom mandarin in Su-chou.
- The Su-la-ho river, running through the Gobi Desert, was a vital source of water for travelers.
- The city of Ngan-si-chou, located near the Gobi Desert, was heavily damaged during the Dungan Rebellion.
- The city of Su-chou, a major Chinese city, served as a center for trade and commerce, and was also connected to the telegraph network.
- The Yellow River, or Hoang-ho, was a major waterway in China, known for its turbulent currents and its fertile “yellow earth” deposits.
- The city of Lan-chou-foo, a significant city in China, was located at a strategic point where the Yellow River bends north.
- The city of Singan-foo, a major historical center in China, was the capital of the Tsin dynasty, and was known for its rich cultural heritage.
- The city of Tong-quan, a strategically important city in China, was a major stronghold of the Hoang-ho basin.
- The “yellow earth” of the Hoang-ho basin is a fertile soil formed over centuries from wind-borne deposits.
- The city of Liang-chou, established by a Catholic Chinaman, was located in a major peanut-producing region.
- The city of Tientsin, a major port city in China, was the destination of the authors’ journey, marking their arrival on the East China Sea.
- The Pei-ho River, flowing through Tientsin, was a major waterway for transport and trade.
- The “Great Dragon,” a mythical creature in Chinese folklore, was said to cause solar eclipses by swallowing the moon.
- The Kai-ping railroad connected Tientsin with Tong-ku, on the line of the Taku bar, a vital point for ocean-going ships entering China.
- The city of Tong-ku was a major center for salt production in China.
- The “phantai,” or treasurer, was a high-ranking official in the Pe-chili province.
- Li-Hung-Chang, the viceroy of the Pe-chili province, was a prominent figure in Chinese politics and a major influence in the country’s modernization.
- The “yamen” was the official residence of the viceroy, and the center of his administrative activities.
- The “foreign reception” room in the viceroy’s residence was a unique space designed to accommodate foreign visitors, reflecting his openness to Western influence.
- The Chinese government sent a group of mandarin’s sons to the United States for education, as part of an experiment in Westernization.
- The Chinese currency system was based on the “chen,” a copper disk with a hole in the center, used for everyday transactions.
Statistics:
- The authors’ journey from Constantinople to Peking spanned a distance of over 3,000 miles.
- The total distance covered by the authors on bicycles was 15,044 miles.
- The city of Tashkend, the capital of Turkestan, had a population of 120,000, with 100,000 living in the native quarter.
- The population of the Kuldja province was estimated at 2,500,000.
- The length of the Great Wall of China was over 1,500 miles.
- The city of Singan-foo, a major historical center in China, was one of the largest cities in the empire, second only to Canton.
- The city of Lan-chou-foo was located at a point where the Yellow River makes a bend of over 1,000 miles.
- Less than 1% of the Chinese population was addicted to opium smoking.
Terms:
- Zaptiehs: Turkish police force.
- Khan: A traditional inn in Turkey and Persia.
- Charshi: An enclosed market or bazaar in Turkey.
- Adet: Custom, a powerful influence in Turkish and Eastern societies.
- Ekmek: A type of Turkish bread, made from cooked bran flour.
- Yaourt: A traditional Turkish and Central Asian yogurt.
- Bairam: The period of feasting that follows Ramadan.
- Evil Eye: A superstition in Turkey and other regions, believing that a person’s gaze can inflict harm.
- Mir: A Russian village commune.
- Telega: A Russian peasant cart.
- Kibitka: A circular felt tent used by Kirghiz and Kazakh nomads.
- Yurt: A similar structure used by the Turkic peoples.
- Isham: An itinerant dervish in Central Asia.
- Kumiss: A traditional fermented mare’s milk drink consumed by Central Asian nomads.
- Tootai: A local governor in China.
- Chen: A copper disk, used as currency in the interior of China.
- Tael: A silver coin, often used in trade and exchange.
- Yamba: A brick of silver.
- Tian Shan: The Tian Shan Mountains, a major mountain range in Central Asia, separating China from Russia.
- Homa: A traditional Chinese greeting, involving the bowing of the head.
- Dungan: A Chinese Muslim ethnic group.
- Taranchi: Another Chinese ethnic group, known for their agricultural skills.
- Li: A traditional unit of measurement in China.
- Tsongtu: A Viceroy, a high-ranking official in the Chinese government.
- Mien: Chinese dough-strings, a staple food.
- Sojeu: Chinese gin.
- Tung-posas: Nut and sugar dumplings.
- Mo-mo: Steamed bread in China.
- Kang: A heated bed or platform used in traditional Chinese homes.
- Lama: A Buddhist monk.
- Shamo: The Chinese term for the Gobi Desert.
- Pei-ho: A river in China, flowing through Tientsin.
- Yamen: An official residence or government building in China.
- Phantai: The treasurer of a province in China.
- Yang queedza: The Chinese term for “foreign devils.”
- Yeh renn: The Chinese term for “wild men.”
Examples:
- The authors encountered a Kurdish encampment on the slopes of Mount Ararat, where they were given a glimpse into the nomadic lifestyle of the tribe.
- The authors’ encounter with a caravan of “silent pilgrims” near Meshed, where they witnessed the devotion and religious practice of the Shiah Muslims.
- The authors’ experience with the Russian postal system in Central Asia, highlighting the differences between the bureaucratic approach and the hospitality they encountered in other regions.
- The authors’ interaction with the Kirghiz nomads in Turkestan, offering insights into their nomadic life, traditional customs, and unique hospitality.
- The authors’ journey through the Gobi Desert, showcasing the harsh conditions, the sparse oases, and the difficulties of traveling across this unforgiving landscape.
- The authors’ encounter with Ling Darin, a Belgian man who had adopted Chinese customs and language, highlighting the cultural exchange and adaptation between the East and West.
- The authors’ experience in Lan-chou-foo, a major Chinese city, and their interactions with the local officials, demonstrating the complexities of Chinese politics and social etiquette.
- The authors’ encounter with Li-Hung-Chang, the viceroy of the Pe-chili province, providing a fascinating glimpse into the political and economic realities of late 19th-century China.
Conclusion:
Across Asia on a Bicycle is a captivating account of a daring and challenging journey through a region undergoing profound change. The authors’ experiences shed light on the cultural complexities of Asia, its diverse landscapes, and the political tensions that defined the late 19th century. Their encounters with various cultures, their perseverance in the face of physical and political obstacles, and their insightful observations make this book a unique and valuable contribution to understanding the world of the past. The book is a testament to the spirit of adventure and the enduring power of human curiosity to explore and connect with different cultures and civilizations.