Overview:
Alaska Days with John Muir is a captivating account of a two-month expedition through Southeast Alaska in 1879 with renowned naturalist John Muir. The author, S. Hall Young, a young missionary working among the Tlingit Indians, recounts the journey that not only brought him closer to the region’s natural wonders but also fostered a profound friendship with Muir. The book highlights Muir’s deep connection with nature, his scientific curiosity, and his profound appreciation for the beauty of the Alaskan wilderness. Young details the incredible scenery they encountered, including towering glaciers, immense forests, and breathtaking mountain ranges. The journey also offered a glimpse into the lives of the native Tlingit people, their culture, and their beliefs.
The narrative is enriched by numerous instances of Muir’s adventurous spirit and Young’s own experiences. The story of Young’s dramatic rescue from a perilous mountain climb by Muir is a testament to their deep trust and Muir’s exceptional mountain climbing skills. Their canoe voyage through the intricate waterways of Southeast Alaska yielded a wealth of discoveries, including Glacier Bay and its awe-inspiring glaciers. The book also paints a vivid picture of the rugged life in Alaska during this time, showcasing the challenges faced by both missionaries and natives.
Key Findings:
- Muir’s Passion for Nature: The book reveals Muir’s profound connection to nature and his unwavering dedication to its study.
- Alaska’s Natural Beauty: The descriptions of the Alaskan landscape, particularly the glaciers and forests, highlight the region’s unique and awe-inspiring beauty.
- Tlingit Culture: The narrative provides insights into the Tlingit people’s beliefs, customs, and challenges they faced in the face of European colonization.
Learning:
- Glacier Formation: The reader will learn about the processes of glacier formation and their impact on the Alaskan landscape, including the shaping of mountains and valleys.
- Glacial Movement: The text describes the dynamic nature of glaciers, their movement, and the forces that drive them, offering a unique perspective on geological processes.
- Tlingit Beliefs: The reader gains an understanding of the Tlingit people’s beliefs and spiritual connections to the natural world, highlighting the importance of preserving indigenous knowledge.
Historical Context:
The book captures a pivotal moment in Alaska’s history, a time when the region was still largely unexplored and the native Tlingit people were facing significant changes brought about by European colonization. It provides a snapshot of the social and cultural landscape of this era, highlighting the interactions between indigenous peoples and missionaries.
Facts:
- Alaska’s Rain: Southeast Alaska experiences 225 rainy days a year, a testament to its damp climate.
- Hootz-Noo Rum: The Hootz-noo tribe of Tlingit Indians invented a potent form of fermented liquor, called “hooch,” made from molasses, dried fruit, and spices.
- Chilcat Blankets: The Chilcat blankets, renowned for their intricate weaving and use of mountain goat hair, were a prized possession for chiefs and a symbol of wealth and status.
- Tlingit Potlatch: The Tlingit people practiced a traditional gift-giving ceremony called a “potlatch” to demonstrate wealth and social standing.
- Slaves in Alaska: The Chilcat tribe enslaved people from other tribes, including those from the coasts of Vancouver Island, Puget Sound, and the mouth of the Columbia River.
- Gold in Juneau: The discovery of gold in Juneau by Joe Harris and Joe Juneau, who met the author and Muir during their expedition, led to the rapid growth of the city.
- Hootz Bear: The “hootz,” a large brown bear native to Southeast Alaska, is known for its ferocity and is rarely hunted by the Tlingit people.
- The Jamestown: A U.S. Revenue Cutter, the Jamestown, was the only sign of authority in Alaska during this time, often serving as a school ship for the navy.
- Alaska’s Uncharted Waters: Many steamers were wrecked in Glacier Bay and other uncharted areas of Alaska until accurate maps were created by surveying vessels.
- Muir’s Aversion to Killing Animals: Muir, despite being a meat-eater, strongly objected to the killing of wild animals.
- Taylor Glacier’s Advance: Unlike most Alaskan glaciers that were receding at the time, Taylor Glacier was advancing, demonstrating the powerful forces of glacial movement.
- Tlingit Slave Sacrifice: A Tlingit chief sacrificed two slaves to the spirit of the glacier in an attempt to stop its advance.
- Wolf Howls: Wolves were a common sound in the Alaskan wilderness, their haunting howls often echoing through the night.
- The Saanah Wind: The “saanah,” a strong southeast rain-wind, is a powerful force in Southeast Alaska, bringing heavy rain and strong winds.
- The Cheechakoes: The term “Cheechakoes” refers to newcomers to Alaska, particularly those seeking gold during the Klondike gold rush.
- The White Pass Railroad: The White Pass Railroad, connecting Skagway to Lake Bennett, was a crucial link in the Klondike gold rush and helped to transport miners and supplies.
- The Harriman Expedition: A scientific expedition led by railroad magnate E. H. Harriman in 1899, which included John Muir and other eminent scientists.
- The George W. Elder: The steamship George W. Elder, chartered by E. H. Harriman for his scientific expedition to Alaska.
- Nome Gold Rush: The Nome gold rush in 1899 brought thousands of prospectors to the bleak northwestern coast of Alaska.
Statistics:
- Tlingit Population: The author estimated the population of the Tlingit tribes in Southeast Alaska.
- The Jamestown’s Crew: The U.S. Revenue Cutter Jamestown had a crew of marines and sailors.
- Height of Muir Glacier: The face of Muir Glacier was estimated to be between 400 and 700 feet high.
- Rate of Glacier Movement: Muir Glacier was estimated to be moving at a rate of 50 to 60 feet per day.
- Taylor Glacier’s Advancement: Taylor Glacier was advancing at a rate of at least one mile per year.
- The White Pass Railroad: The White Pass Railroad was 30 miles long.
- Yukon River Journey: The Yukon River is 2,000 miles long.
Terms:
- Kladushu etlan (six-fathom): A traditional Tlingit canoe, measuring six fathoms (36 feet) in length.
- Saanah: A strong southeast rain-wind that prevails in Southeast Alaska.
- Potlatch: A traditional Tlingit gift-giving ceremony to demonstrate wealth and social standing.
- Hootz: The brown bear native to Southeast Alaska.
- Tlinget: An indigenous people inhabiting the Pacific Northwest coast of North America.
- Cheechakoes: Newcomers to Alaska, particularly gold prospectors during the Klondike gold rush.
- Hyas klosh (very good): A Tlinget phrase meaning “very good.”
- U-ha, u-ha! (pull, pull!): A Tlinget phrase used to encourage paddlers.
- Hlitsin! (strong): A Tlinget phrase meaning “strong.”
- Tatlum-pe-ict (eleven): A Tlinget word for the number eleven.
Examples:
- Young’s Rescue: Young’s dramatic rescue from the mountainside by Muir after dislocating both shoulders is a testament to Muir’s rock-climbing expertise and Young’s unwavering trust in his friend.
- Tow-a-att’s Death: The tragic death of Tow-a-att, the author’s canoe captain and a devout Christian, at the hands of the Hootz-noo tribe highlights the violence and unrest that persisted in Alaska during this time.
- The Hootz-Noo War: The Hootz-noo tribe’s declaration of war on a bear after one of their warriors was killed by it showcases their beliefs and traditions.
- The Idiot Boy: The story of the Hootz-noo chief’s son, Hootz-too (Bear Heart), a severe idiot who was protected by his mother from a mob seeking to kill him, demonstrates the extraordinary lengths to which maternal love can extend.
- The Harvard Graduate: The story of the Harvard graduate living among the Kake Indians in a state of utter degradation exemplifies the potential for societal downfall, even among educated individuals.
- Stickeen’s Escapade: Stickeen’s ability to find his way back to the canoe after swimming away from Pleasant Island demonstrates the dog’s intelligence and uncanny intuition.
- Muir’s Glacier Crossing: Muir’s solo traversal of Muir Glacier, a journey of 30 miles, highlights his adventurous spirit and endurance.
- The Lost Glacier: The author and Muir’s journey to find the lost glacier, later named Young Glacier, demonstrates their persistent exploration and scientific curiosity.
- Yosemite Bay: The discovery of Yosemite Bay, a spectacular canyon with numerous waterfalls and towering granite cliffs, rivals the beauty of Yosemite Valley in California.
- Taylor Glacier: The story of Muir’s adventurous climb up Taylor Glacier in a storm, alongside Stickeen, highlights their deep bond and Muir’s determination to explore even in challenging conditions.
Conclusion:
Alaska Days with John Muir is a captivating journey through the wilds of Southeast Alaska. The narrative celebrates the beauty and grandeur of the Alaskan wilderness, highlighting the unique characteristics of glaciers, forests, and mountains. The book provides a glimpse into the lives of the Tlingit people, their customs, and their beliefs, and offers a unique perspective on the challenges they faced during this period of change. Through the shared experiences of the author and John Muir, the reader is drawn into a world of exploration, adventure, and deep respect for the natural world. Their relationship, marked by mutual admiration and shared passions, serves as a reminder of the profound connections we can forge with both nature and those who share our love for it.