Overview:
Beeton’s Book of Needlework is a Victorian era guide to various forms of needlework, offering detailed instructions and illustrations for a range of popular techniques. From tatting and crochet to knitting and embroidery, the book covers everything a woman of the time would need to know to create beautiful and practical items for her home, wardrobe, and personal use. The introduction, penned by Samuel Butler, emphasizes the historical significance of needlework as a valuable skill and source of comfort and employment for women across all social classes.
The book’s organization reflects the prevalence of different needlework techniques in the Victorian era, with sections devoted to each form of craft. Within each section, the reader is provided with a comprehensive overview of the necessary materials, tools, and techniques, followed by a collection of detailed patterns and instructions for creating a variety of objects. The book also incorporates historical context, showcasing the evolution of needlework styles and techniques over time.
Key Findings:
- Needlework was a central skill for Victorian women: From domestic tasks to creating decorative pieces, needlework was a valuable and widely practiced skill for women of all ages and social standings.
- Needlework was a means of economic support for women: Beeton’s Book acknowledges the economic importance of needlework for many women, particularly those of lower socioeconomic status.
- The book reflects the changing landscape of needlework techniques: The book highlights the growing popularity of techniques such as point lace and guipure d’art, showcasing the Victorian era’s fascination with intricate and decorative needlework.
Learning:
- The reader will learn the fundamental principles and techniques of various forms of needlework: Beeton’s Book provides a comprehensive introduction to tatting, crochet, knitting, netting, embroidery, point lace, guipure d’art, and Berlin work.
- The reader will gain an understanding of the materials and tools used in each technique: The book offers detailed information on different types of cotton, threads, wools, braids, needles, and other tools used in needlework.
- The reader will acquire the skills to create a wide variety of needlework projects: The book features an extensive collection of patterns and instructions for making collars, cuffs, cravats, handkerchiefs, table linens, purses, bags, cushions, covers, and more.
- The reader will gain an appreciation for the history and evolution of needlework: The book provides a glimpse into the history of different needlework techniques, highlighting their development and popularity over time.
Historical Context:
The text was published in 1870, a time of significant social and technological change in England. The Victorian era, marked by its emphasis on domesticity and craftsmanship, saw a resurgence of interest in needlework. This period also witnessed advancements in textile manufacturing and the availability of new materials, contributing to the diversity and sophistication of needlework techniques. The text highlights the social importance of needlework for women, particularly in providing opportunities for self-expression, economic support, and community engagement.
Facts:
- Tatting, Frivolité, and Frivolitäten are all terms for the same needlework technique: The term “tatting” is used in English, while “Frivolité” is the French term and “Frivolitäten” is German.
- Mrs. Mee introduced the practice of tatting from the reel instead of the shuttle: This innovation made the process more efficient and less labor-intensive.
- Mdlle. Riego developed a method for joining tatting stitches with the same thread used to create the pattern: This simplified the joining process and eliminated the need for a separate thread.
- Point lace is considered to be a more difficult and refined form of fancy work: It became increasingly popular in the Victorian era.
- The art of embroidery with cotton on linen, muslin, and cambric is relatively easy to learn: The book provides detailed instructions and illustrations to guide the beginner.
- Skilled embroiderers do not work over anything: This prevents the material from puckering and allows for a smoother, more precise finish.
- The outlines of embroidery patterns are often traced onto toile cirée or tracing cloth: This helps to ensure accuracy and precision in the embroidery.
- The back stitch is often used for fine outlines in patterns and letters: This stitch provides a clean, precise finish and is particularly effective on fine and transparent materials.
- The ladder stitch is used for ornamental embroidery: It involves tracing the outlines, filling the spaces with chain stitches, and cutting away the material underneath.
- Raised satin stitch is used for blossoms, leaves, and letters, and other decorative elements: This technique creates a three-dimensional effect that adds depth and texture to the embroidery.
- Point de minute is often used in place of satin stitch when the pattern must appear raised: This stitch involves winding the cotton several times around the needle and then drawing it through the material.
- The art of crochet involves using a crochet needle to create stitches in a chain of loops: The book explains the different types of foundation chains and how to create various crochet stitches.
- Knitting is a useful and versatile needlework technique: It uses needles to create a series of interconnected loops, which can be used to make a variety of items, including socks, scarves, and blankets.
- Netting uses a mesh and needle to create a web of knotted loops: The book explains the process of netting and different techniques, including square netting, round netting, and diamond netting.
- Guipure d’art is a lacemaking technique that involves working raised and intersected patterns upon a square network of linen thread: This intricate form of needlework became popular in the Victorian era.
- The most important aspect of Guipure d’art is the careful execution of each stitch: The book emphasizes the need for precision and regularity to achieve a polished finish.
- Berlin work is a type of needlework that uses a canvas grid to create a range of stitches with wool, silk, or beads: The book explains different Berlin work stitches and provides instructions for various patterns.
Statistics:
- Beeton’s Book of Needlework contains over 600 engravings: These illustrations provide detailed visual guidance for all the needlework techniques and patterns described in the book.
- The quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used by an average worker is two yards to the square inch with a single shuttle: This statistic provides a useful guide for estimating the amount of material needed for a particular project.
- The price of tracing cloth is 1s. 6d. per yard: This information is relevant for those who wish to create their own point lace patterns by tracing them onto tracing cloth.
- Point lace cord runs about twelve yards to the hank: This statistic is useful for calculating the amount of cord needed for a point lace project.
- The price of point lace cord is 1s. per hank: This information is helpful for budgeting a point lace project.
- The price of Mecklenburg linen thread is 1s. per hank: This statistic is useful for estimating the cost of materials for point lace work.
- The number of stitches used in point lace exceeds one hundred: This highlights the complexity and variety of stitches employed in this form of lacemaking.
- The cost of a guipure d’art frame is relatively low: This information is useful for those who wish to create their own guipure d’art projects.
- The price of Mecklenburg thread is 1s. per hank: This is helpful for estimating the cost of materials for guipure d’art projects.
- The number of threads used in point de toile typically ranges from four to eight: This information provides a guideline for creating a strong and consistent foundation for guipure d’art work.
- The size of the mesh used for netting a square foundation can range from three-quarters of an inch or more: The choice of mesh size depends on the desired size and appearance of the finished piece.
- The cost of Penelope canvas varies depending on the size and quality: This information is helpful for budgeting a Berlin work project.
- Floss silk is typically used for Berlin work because it covers the thread of the canvas better than purse silk: This information helps the reader understand the benefits and drawbacks of different materials used in Berlin work.
Terms:
- Tatting: A type of lacemaking that uses a shuttle and thread to create knots and loops.
- Frivolité: The French term for tatting.
- Frivolitäten: The German term for tatting.
- Shuttle: A small tool used in tatting to hold and wind the thread.
- Purl: A small loop of cotton or thread used for edging in tatting.
- Embroidery: The art of creating designs on fabric with thread using a needle.
- Satin Stitch: An embroidery stitch that creates a smooth, close surface.
- Point de plume: A type of embroidery stitch that creates a feathery effect.
- Point de minute: A type of embroidery stitch that creates a raised and textured effect.
- Point russe: A type of embroidery stitch that resembles back stitching and is often used for fine outlines.
- Overcast Stitch: An embroidery stitch used for edging, outlining, and securing fabrics.
- Broderie Anglaise: An embroidery technique that uses overcast stitch and eyelets to create a decorative effect.
- Appliqué: A technique in which pieces of fabric are applied onto another fabric to create a design.
- Crochet: A type of needlework that uses a crochet needle to create stitches in a chain of loops.
- Knitting: A type of needlework that uses needles to create a series of interconnected loops.
- Netting: A type of needlework that uses a mesh and needle to create a web of knotted loops.
- Mesh: A tool used in netting that helps to hold and shape the stitches.
- Guipure d’art: A lacemaking technique that involves working raised and intersected patterns upon a square network of linen thread.
- Fillet: A square network of linen thread used as a foundation for guipure d’art.
- Point d’esprit: A stitch in guipure d’art that consists of a series of small loops.
- Point de toile: A stitch in guipure d’art that is similar to plain darning stitch.
- Point de feston: A stitch in guipure d’art that resembles overcast stitch.
- Point de reprise: A stitch in guipure d’art that involves darning over and under two threads.
- Berlin work: A type of needlework that uses a canvas grid to create a range of stitches with wool, silk, or beads.
- Penelope canvas: A type of canvas with small holes, ideal for Berlin work.
- Gobelin Stitch: A stitch in Berlin work that creates a raised and textured effect.
- Tent Stitch: A simple stitch in Berlin work that is worked over one stitch in height and one in width.
Examples:
- Tatting Pattern No. 1 – Pine Pattern Collar: This pattern utilizes circles and ovals joined by purls to create a delicate collar design.
- Embroidery Pattern No. 90 – Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch: The example shows how to create a leaf with one half worked in satin stitch and the other half in back stitch, adding dimension and depth.
- Crochet Pattern No. 244 – Star in Crochet: This pattern features a large outer star and a smaller central star, demonstrating the process of creating openwork and intricate crochet designs.
- Guipure d’art Pattern No. 521 – Insertion in Guipure d’art: The example demonstrates how to create a strip of insertion with point de feston stitches and star wheels, showcasing the variety of patterns possible within guipure d’art.
- Berlin Work Pattern No. 577 – Common Cross Stitch: The illustration shows the process of working a common cross stitch, highlighting the steps involved in creating the stitch and how it forms a consistent, even pattern.
Conclusion:
Beeton’s Book of Needlework offers a comprehensive and insightful exploration of a variety of needlework techniques popular during the Victorian era. It not only serves as a valuable resource for learning these skills but also provides a fascinating glimpse into the social and historical context of needlework at the time. The reader will gain an understanding of the materials, tools, and techniques used in each craft, as well as the ability to create a range of beautiful and practical objects. The book’s detailed instructions and illustrations make it an accessible and rewarding resource for both beginners and experienced needleworkers.