Overview:
This book is a collection of personal sketches from a journey through Turkey in 1911. The author, Louisa Jebb Wilkins, describes her travels with her companion, X, across the Anatolian Plateau and the Taurus Mountains, culminating in a trip down the Tigris River to Baghdad. The book is not a traditional travelogue, focusing more on the details of daily life and encounters with the people and landscapes of this often-forgotten region. Wilkins is fascinated by the clash between the modern world, symbolized by the arrival of the railway, and the ancient traditions of the Turkish people. She highlights the challenges of navigating a complex culture with little knowledge of the language, the dangers of brigandage and the complexities of dealing with Turkish officials. The journey takes a unique turn when she is mistaken for a royal, with officials and villagers alike offering her hospitality and protection.
The second part of the book shifts to the Tigris River, where Wilkins and her companions travel by raft. The author’s descriptions of the river and its banks are vivid, capturing the beauty of the landscape and the unique personalities of her companions. The journey is not without its perils, as they are held up by brigands, face storms and confront the struggles of a changing cultural landscape.
Key Findings:
- The arrival of the railway and other Western influences is slowly changing the landscape and culture of Turkey.
- Despite the modernizing forces, the traditional life of the Turkish peasant and nomadic tribes still persists.
- The Turkish government is a complex and sometimes corrupt system, with officials often more interested in self-preservation than public service.
- The East is a land of contrasts, with stark beauty alongside poverty and desolation, and with a unique sense of time and hospitality.
Learning:
- The East is not a monolithic entity. The book showcases the diverse landscapes and cultures that comprise the region, from the rugged Taurus Mountains to the lush plains of Mesopotamia to the ancient ruins of Babylon.
- Navigating the East requires sensitivity and flexibility. The author highlights the importance of learning the local language, understanding cultural customs, and being patient with the complexities of dealing with bureaucracy.
- Western modernization is not always beneficial. The arrival of the railway, while bringing prosperity and development, also disrupts traditional ways of life and can lead to the exploitation of local populations.
- The people of the East are both resilient and welcoming. Despite facing challenges from poverty, conflict and a changing world, the Turkish people are strong, hospitable and adaptable.
Historical Context:
The book was written in 1911, a time of significant change in the Middle East. The Ottoman Empire was in decline, and European powers were vying for influence in the region. The arrival of the Baghdad Railway symbolized this growing Western influence, which would ultimately lead to the collapse of the Empire after World War I. The book also reflects the tensions between different religious groups in the region, as well as the ongoing struggle for power between the Turkish government and Kurdish tribes.
Facts:
- The capture of Miss Stone: This incident, a sensational kidnapping for ransom that occurred in 1903, became a symbol of the dangers of travel in Turkey at the time. The author discusses it frequently, acknowledging the dangers but also highlighting how the incident was not seen as a major concern by many locals.
- The Baghdad Railway: This ambitious project, started by the German Empire, was meant to connect Berlin to Baghdad and was seen as a major geopolitical challenge to British influence in the region. The author documents the growing awareness and excitement about its arrival.
- The Anatolian Railway: The author travelled extensively by train on this line, which was built in the late 19th century. She uses her observations of the railway as a means to understand the changing landscape and culture of Turkey.
- The Nicene Creed: The author visits Nicea (Isnik) and is struck by the ruins of the city and its historical significance. She is particularly interested in the church where the Nicene Creed was formulated.
- Karaman: This ancient city, with its medieval castle, is noted for being a place of peace and plenty.
- Boulghar Maden: This village in the Taurus Mountains is famous for its silver mines, which have been worked since Hittite times.
- Tarsus: This town, known as the birthplace of St. Paul, was a significant stop for the author, who stayed at the American Mission school.
- Adana: The author is received as a royal in this city, where she is granted an audience with the Vali.
- Aintab: This town was home to a large American Mission, which the author visited. She discusses the impact of Western education and civilization on the region.
- The Euphrates River: The author crosses the Euphrates at Birejik, which is known for its rock tombs.
- Urfa: This ancient city, sometimes called Ur of the Chaldees, is known as the birthplace of Abraham. The author experiences a dramatic reception by the city’s governor.
- Harran: The author visits this ancient city, which is mentioned in the Bible as a stop on Abraham’s journey to Canaan. She reflects on the city’s history and its importance as a center of trade.
- Diarbekr: This city is known for its black walls and for being a stronghold of Kurdish culture.
- The Tigris River: The author travels down the Tigris by raft, describing the river’s changing landscapes and the unique challenges of navigating it.
- Hassan Kaif: This village is noted for its rock tombs and for its location on a significant trade route.
- Jezireh: This town, located at the confluence of the Tigris and the Jezeer rivers, is a center of Kurdish culture.
- Mosul: This city is known for its Assyrian mounds and for being a center of trade. The author observes a local washing day and visits the sites of ancient Nineveh.
- Tekreet: This town is known for its palm tree and an old castle on a nearby rock.
- Samarah: This town is known for its mosque with a blue dome and its religious significance.
- Babylon: The author visits the ruins of Babylon, a city of ancient grandeur and a reminder of the impermanence of human empires.
Statistics:
- 267 miles: Distance from Eskishehr to Konia
- 15 hours: Time it took the author to travel from Eskishehr to Konia by rail
- 267 miles: Distance from Konia to Tarsus
- 267 miles: Distance from Diarbekr to Mosul
- 65 miles: Distance from Mosul to Baghdad
- 14 miles: Length of each side of the square walls of Babylon
- 25 gates: Number of gates on each side of Babylon’s walls
- 1,500 columns: Estimated number of columns in the main avenue of Palmyra
- 100 feet: Height of the tomb towers in Palmyra
- 2,300: Number of women in the city of Harran
- 4,000: Number of people living in Harran
- 3,000: Number of inhabitants of Boulghar Maden
Terms:
- Zaptiehs: Armed gendarmes used as escorts for travelers
- Dragoman: A professional guide and interpreter
- Kaimakam: A local governor
- Mudir: A local official or governor
- Vali: A regional governor
- Vekil: An acting governor
- Araba: A native cart
- Khan: A caravanserai, a roadside inn for travelers
- Tezkereh: A travel permit
- Kalek: A raft
- Kalekji: A raftsman
- Yuzbashi: A captain
- Goufa: A native boat made of pomegranate branches
Examples:
- The author describes her initial struggles to disentangle herself from the expectations and conventions of Western civilization, such as her attempts to travel light and eat local food.
- The author’s encounter with the Austrian “agent commercial du chemin de fer Ottoman” at Karaman highlights the growing influence of Western business interests in Turkey.
- The author’s visit to a poor Turkish wedding at Eskishehr contrasts sharply with the opulent life of the wealthy merchant she visits in the same city.
- The author’s encounters with both a Kurdish wedding procession and an Armenian wedding highlight the differences in traditions and customs across Turkey.
- The author’s experiences with the dancing bear and her encounters with the “pauvre Marie” at the French engineer’s house offer insights into the clash of cultures.
- The author’s description of the “written stones” in the Taurus Mountains highlights the enduring presence of ancient civilizations in the region.
- The author’s encounters with brigands and other dangerous situations reveal the realities of travel in a lawless region.
- The author’s experiences with Turkish officials, such as the Vali of Adana, offer a glimpse into the complexities of Turkish government and the challenges of navigating its bureaucracy.
- The author’s trip to Harran, the city of Nahor, allows her to delve into the biblical past and connect her journey to the stories of Abraham and Jacob.
- The author’s encounter with the fanatic in Samarah illustrates the dangerous side of religious extremism.
Conclusion:
Louisa Jebb Wilkins’ “By Desert Ways to Baghdad” is a unique and captivating account of a journey through Turkey in 1911. Her vivid descriptions of the landscapes and encounters with the people provide a fascinating glimpse into a region undergoing significant transformation. The book is a testament to the resilience of Turkish culture, the complexities of the Ottoman Empire in its final years, and the impact of Western influences on the Middle East. While Wilkins’ journey was an adventure of exploration and discovery, her observations and reflections offer a powerful commentary on the human condition and the timeless struggles of humanity against the forces of change. The book reminds us that even in the face of technological advancement and cultural shifts, the basic realities of human experience, such as the search for peace, the desire for connection, and the fear of the unknown, remain constant.