Climbing in the British Isles. Vol. 1 - England Informative Summary

Overview:

This book, written by W.P. Haskett Smith, is a comprehensive guide to climbing in England, focusing primarily on the Lake District. Published in 1894, it provides an insightful look at the early days of organized rock climbing in Britain and reflects the evolving understanding of mountaineering techniques and safety precautions. Smith highlights the importance of the Lake District as a training ground for aspiring alpinists, emphasizing the unique challenges posed by its variable weather and the need for careful preparation. He also emphasizes the importance of using ropes and collaborating with climbing partners, laying the groundwork for the modern-day safety practices we know today.

The book provides detailed descriptions of various mountains, crags, and climbs, including local names and their origins. Smith offers historical anecdotes and accounts of earlier climbers, capturing the spirit of early mountaineering exploration. It’s a fascinating window into the early development of rock climbing, showcasing the progression of techniques and the emerging sense of adventure associated with this challenging activity.

Key Findings:

The Lake District was a major training ground for mountaineering in the late 19th century.
The book reflects the evolving understanding of climbing techniques and safety practices.
The book provides detailed descriptions of various climbs, including historical anecdotes and accounts of earlier climbers.

Learning:

Climbing Techniques: The book details various climbing techniques like back-and-knee, chimney, and toe-scrape. It also explores the use of ropes and the importance of climbing with partners for safety.
Local Terms & History: The book delves into the origins and meanings of local terms used in the Lake District, offering a deeper understanding of the region’s unique vocabulary. It also recounts historical events and figures associated with the area, providing a glimpse into the history of climbing in the region.
Mountain Ecology: Smith’s observations about the prevalence of foxes and buzzards in certain areas highlight the intertwined nature of wildlife and climbing, and the importance of understanding the ecosystem when exploring mountains.
Historical Context: The book provides valuable insights into the social and cultural context of the Victorian era, including attitudes towards outdoor activities, the rise of tourism, and the development of mountaineering as a sport.

Historical Context:

The book was written in a period of rapid social and cultural change in England. The Industrial Revolution was in full swing, and urbanization was on the rise. People were seeking escape from the stresses of city life, and the beauty and ruggedness of the Lake District became a popular destination for tourists and adventurers. The book captures this trend, highlighting the growing interest in exploring the natural world and challenging oneself through physical activity. This fascination with the mountains also reflected the romantic ideals of the era, which emphasized the appreciation of nature’s grandeur and the pursuit of individual self-discovery.

Facts:

The Bowder Stone in Borrowdale is the largest free-standing rock in England: It is 31 yards long and 8 yards high, weighing over 600 tons.
Ennerdale was once a deer forest owned by the Crown: The last of the deer herd was destroyed many years ago, but stories of “t’ girt wild dog” still linger in the dale.
The Helm Wind originates from Cross Fell: This strong, destructive wind, unique to the Lake District, is a result of the mountain’s shape and the surrounding topography.
The Pillar Rock was first climbed from the west side in 1826: A cooper named Atkinson, defying those who believed it to be unclimbable, accomplished the feat.
The highest mountain in England is Scafell Pike: It reaches a height of 3,210 feet.
The largest block of stone in Europe is in Luxulion, Cornwall: It is 49 feet by 27 feet with a girth of 72 feet, surpassing even the famous boulders in the Italian lakes.
Dartmoor is a high upland moor with numerous granite tors: These distinctive rock formations are a key feature of the moor’s landscape and offer unique climbing challenges.
The most famous pothole in Yorkshire is Alum Pot: It is an elliptical opening in the limestone, 120 feet long and 40 feet wide, with a perpendicular depth of 200 feet.
The first ascent of the Napes Needle was made by the book’s author: He climbed it from the west side in 1886.
The name “Saddleback” is thought to be a post-boy’s name: Romantically minded people use the name Blencathara, a name of Celtic origin.
The word “gill” is often considered a sign of Scandinavian settlements: It refers to a stream flowing between walls of rock.
The word “fell” is specific to the Lake District and Scotland: It typically refers to a high, open moorland, often with rocky outcrops.
The name “Eagle Crag” is frequently found in the North of England: It denotes a bold, precipitous rock.
The name “How” is a Norse word for a burial mound: It is found throughout the North of England.
The word “Hause” is a northern term for a pass: It refers to a narrow passage between hills.
The “Rake” is a common term in the Lake District and Yorkshire: It usually refers to a scree-gully, emphasizing its straightness.
The word “Tarn” is a northern term for a mountain lake: It is often found in association with crags and steep slopes.
The word “Stand” is often used to denote a large grassy area: It can be found in various places throughout the Lake District, often as part of climb names.
The word “Crag” refers to a rocky outcrop or cliff: It is commonly used in the Lake District and other mountainous areas.

Statistics:

The Bowder Stone is estimated to weigh over 600 tons: This emphasizes its sheer size and monumental nature.
The Pillar Rock is nearly 600 feet high: This measurement highlights the scale of the climbing challenges posed by this iconic rock.
The Great Chimney on the Pillar Rock is 50 feet high: This statistic gives a sense of the sheer verticality of the climb.
The Scafell Pillar stands at a height of 3,162 feet: This gives context to the challenging climbs that surround this prominent peak.
The highest point in England is Scafell Pike at 3,210 feet: This provides a benchmark for understanding the relative heights of other mountains in the Lake District.
The Screes flanking Wastwater are over a mile high: This emphasizes the vast scale of this impressive mountainside.
The deepest pothole in Yorkshire, Gaping Gill Hole, is 356 feet deep: This statistic gives a glimpse into the vastness and complexity of the subterranean landscape.
The annual fell race, or “Guides’ race,” on Silver Howe is completed in around 10 minutes uphill and 5 minutes downhill: This gives a sense of the intensity and speed of this challenging competition.
The ascent of Ingleborough takes just over an hour from Clapham: This statistic highlights the accessibility of this popular Yorkshire mountain.
The distance from Wastdale Head to the summit of Scafell Pike is a hard 60 minutes of walking: This provides a benchmark for gauging the difficulty of other hikes in the area.
The descent from Wind Gap to Wastdale takes 2 to 3 hours: This statistic emphasizes the difficulty of this particular route.
The circumference of the Luxulion boulder is 72 feet: This gives a sense of the colossal scale of this unique feature.
The height of the highest cliff on the English coast, Rockcliff, is 660 feet: This provides a comparison point for understanding the heights of other cliffs around the country.
The Wastdale Screes are over a mile high: This gives a sense of the impressive size of this landscape feature.
The “Big Gully” in Pavey Ark is approximately 600 feet high: This statistic emphasizes the challenge of this prominent climb.
The Mickledoor Chimney on Scafell is 12 feet high, with the upper six feet being a steep slant: This statistic provides a detail about the difficulty of this famous climb.
The height of the climb from the foot of Moss Gill to the snow patch above the jammed stones is 295 feet: This measurement helps climbers understand the scale of the climb.
The height of the highest point of the Napes Needle is 105 feet: This gives context to the challenge of climbing this distinctive peak.
The length of Yewbarrow is two miles: This statistic emphasizes the size of this mountain ridge.
The height of the limestone cliffs at Cheddar is 436 feet: This provides a benchmark for understanding the size of these impressive features.

Terms:

Arête: A narrow, sharp ridge on a mountain.
Col: A pass between two mountains, usually lower than the surrounding peaks.
Chimney: A narrow vertical crack in rock, often climbable using back-and-knee technique.
Chockstone: A large stone wedged in a gully or chimney, often requiring specialized techniques to pass.
Couloir: A narrow, steep gully or ravine, often filled with ice and snow.
Gully: A steep ravine or channel carved in a mountainside, often offering challenging climbs.
Scree: A slope of loose, broken rock debris, often found below cliffs.
Talus: A slope formed by the accumulation of scree at the base of a cliff.
Tors: Isolated, free-standing rock formations, often found on Dartmoor.
Mauvais Pas: A particularly difficult or dangerous passage in a climb.

Examples:

The “Girt Wild Dog” of Ennerdale: This legendary animal, a wild dog that terrorized the dale for months, demonstrates the unique folklore and traditions associated with the Lake District.
The suicide of Clark at Clark’s Leap: This tragic event, etched into the local history, highlights the powerful connection between human drama and the landscape.
The story of Dixon’s Three Jumps: This remarkable tale of a fox-hunter surviving a serious fall, showcasing the indomitable spirit of the region’s people.
The ascent of the Pillar Rock by Atkinson: This account of the first successful climb of the Pillar, defying those who believed it to be impossible, reflects the spirit of early climbing pioneers.
The ascent of Moss Gill by Dr. Collie and his party: This description of a challenging climb, involving complex maneuvers and a daring traverse, highlights the evolving techniques and strategies used in mountaineering.
The tragedy of Walker’s Gully: This account of a young climber’s fatal fall, emphasizes the inherent dangers of climbing and the importance of safety precautions.
The building of Westmorland’s Cairn: This story of two climbers’ efforts to commemorate their mountain experience, showcasing the human impact on the landscape.
The ascent of the Napes Needle by the author: This personal account of a challenging climb, reflecting the thrill and satisfaction of overcoming a demanding physical challenge.
The description of “Jack’s Rake” on Pavey Ark: This explanation of a seemingly impossible passage, providing a glimpse into the hidden pathways found in the mountains.
The story of “Steeple Jackson,” the Rev. James Jackson: This account of a passionate climber who, even in his old age, defied conventions and pursued his love of mountaineering, illustrating the enduring appeal of this activity.

Conclusion:

W.P. Haskett Smith’s “Climbing in the British Isles. Vol. 1 – England” is a fascinating and insightful guide to climbing in England, particularly the Lake District. The book provides valuable information for climbers of all levels, offering detailed descriptions of climbs, technical terms, local names, and historical context. It highlights the beauty and challenges of climbing in this region, capturing the spirit of early mountaineering exploration and reflecting the evolving understanding of techniques and safety practices. This book is a vital resource for anyone seeking to understand the history and evolution of climbing in England, while also serving as a practical guide for those seeking to explore the magnificent landscapes of the Lake District.

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