Overview:
This book, published in 1895, is a guide to climbing in Wales and Ireland, excluding England and Scotland. The book outlines the best places to stay and climb in each region, offering detailed descriptions of mountains, cliffs, routes, and historical context. It also includes accounts of notable climbers, accidents, and folklore.
The author highlights the unique qualities of Welsh and Irish mountains compared to the Alps and England. He emphasizes the importance of mountain craft and knowledge in navigating challenging terrain, often highlighting the dangers of climbing without proper preparation.
Key Findings:
- Wales: Carnarvonshire is the premier climbing region in Wales, with Snowdon, the Glyders, and the Carnedds offering some of the best climbs. The Arans and Cader Idris are also noteworthy.
- Ireland: Donegal boasts some of the highest and finest mountains, including Slieve League, a magnificent sea cliff, and the Donegal Highlands, featuring Muckish, Errigal, and the Poisoned Glen.
- Limestone: Ireland’s limestone formations offer unique challenges, with sheer vertical cliffs like those at Moher and Aran, requiring specialized climbing techniques.
Learning:
- Mountain Craft: The reader learns about the importance of planning, preparation, and self-reliance in navigating mountainous terrain.
- Rock Types: The text discusses different rock types, like granite, quartzite, sandstone, and limestone, and how their characteristics affect climbing difficulty and safety.
- Local History: The book provides insight into the historical context of climbing in Wales and Ireland, including accounts of explorers, accidents, and local folklore.
Historical Context:
The book was written in a time when mountaineering was still a relatively new and adventurous pursuit. The author discusses the early explorers of Welsh and Irish mountains and their encounters with the locals, highlighting the changing understanding of these regions as climbing destinations.
Facts:
- The highest peak in Wales is Snowdon, reaching 3,560 ft.
- The highest mountain in Ireland is Carran Tuohill, standing at 3,414 ft.
- Slieve League in Donegal is considered one of the finest ocean cliffs in Europe.
- The Arans, in Merionethshire, are named after the word “alp” meaning “high place.”
- Cader Idris, in Merionethshire, gets its name from “Cader,” meaning “chair,” and Idris, a legendary giant.
- The Giant’s Causeway in Antrim is formed by columnar basalt, a volcanic rock.
- The Cliffs of Moher in Clare are formed of carboniferous limestone, a rock known for its sheer vertical faces.
- The Mourne Mountains in Down are made of granite, which gives them rounded summits and heavy screes.
- Lambay, an island near Dublin, has unique cliffs formed of felstone porphyry.
- The Galtee Mountains in Tipperary are composed of Silurian slates and old red sandstone conglomerate.
- The Commeragh Mountains in Waterford are predominantly sandstone and conglomerate, with some slate and shale.
- Clogwyn y Garnedd, on Snowdon, is renowned for its rare ferns and plants.
- William Williams, a botanist, lost his life on Clogwyn y Garnedd while searching for Woodsia ferns.
- The Devil’s Looking Glass, in the Reeks, is a tarn surrounded by impressive cliffs, offering excellent climbing opportunities.
Statistics:
- Snowdon is 69 ft. higher than Carnedd Ugain, the highest point of Crib y Ddysgl.
- The final pitch of Twll Du is approximately 53 ft. high.
- The north face of Lliwedd is around 850 ft. high, with the most difficult sections in the first 200 ft.
- The Slieve League cliffs are nearly sheer for 1,000 ft, descending from a heathery brink.
- The cliffs above Lough Curra in the Galtee Mountains drop 1,000 ft. into the lake.
- The Cliffs of Moher extend for several miles, with heights reaching 700 ft.
- The Mourne Mountains cover an elliptical area of approximately 15 miles by 6.
Terms:
- Cwm: A circular or U-shaped valley, often found in mountainous regions.
- Arête: A narrow, sharp ridge between two mountain slopes.
- Gully: A channel or ravine carved into a mountainside, often containing a stream.
- Pinnacle: A sharp, pointed peak on a mountain ridge.
- Cairn: A pile of stones, often erected as a marker on a mountain top.
- Bwlch: A pass or gap between mountains.
- Llyn: A lake, often found in mountainous regions.
- Scree: A slope of loose rock fragments, often found below a cliff face.
- Talus: A slope of accumulated rock debris at the foot of a cliff.
- Conglomerate: A type of sedimentary rock made up of rounded pebbles cemented together.
Examples:
- The Parson’s Nose: A prominent spur on Crib y Ddysgl, offering a challenging climb with excellent handholds.
- Twll Du: A deep chasm in the Glyder Fawr, known as the Devil’s Kitchen, offering a formidable climb.
- Crib Goch: A sharp, rocky ridge leading up Snowdon, known for its stunning views and challenging terrain.
- Slieve League: The highest sea cliff in Europe, offering an impressive view of the Atlantic and challenging climbs on its face.
- The Hag’s Glen: A valley in the Reeks, named after a legendary witch, known for its wild beauty and challenging climbing.
- The Cliffs of Moher: A remarkable series of sheer limestone cliffs in Clare, offering a magnificent sight and unique climbing opportunities.
- Powerscourt Waterfall: A popular destination in Wicklow, known for its beauty but also for its dangerous climbing on the rocks to the left of the fall.
- The Poisoned Glen: A barren, desolate glen in Donegal with steep granite cliffs and challenging gorges, offering a tough climbing experience.
- Lambay: A rocky island off the coast of Dublin, offering diverse climbing challenges on its sheer cliffs.
- Ben Bulben: An iconic mountain in Sligo, known for its distinctive shape and its rich mountain flora.
Conclusion:
This book provides a comprehensive and insightful look into the world of climbing in Wales and Ireland. It serves as a valuable resource for both seasoned climbers and those looking to experience the thrills and challenges of mountaineering in these unique and beautiful regions. The book offers a wealth of information on the best places to climb, the specific challenges presented by different rock types, and the historical context of mountaineering in these areas. It is a must-read for anyone looking to explore the wild and rugged beauty of the British Isles.