Overview:
The “Encyclopedia of Needlework” by Thérèse de Dillmont, published around 1900, is a detailed manual covering various needlework techniques and designs. The book emphasizes the importance of learning basic stitches and understanding materials. It features detailed instructions for a wide range of needlework techniques, including plain sewing, mending, openwork, net and damask stitches, white embroidery, flat stitch, gold embroidery, tapestry, linen embroidery, and crochet.
The book is written in a clear and concise style, providing step-by-step instructions and numerous illustrations to help the reader understand each technique. It also highlights the historical context of needlework and offers insights into the materials and designs popular during that era.
Key Findings:
- The book emphasizes the importance of mastering plain sewing as a foundation for all needlework.
- It advocates for using high-quality materials, particularly DMC threads and cottons, for their superior quality and wide range of colors.
- The book provides detailed instructions for both traditional and less common stitches, like fine drawing and Montenegrin cross stitch.
- It explores various styles of embroidery, including Renaissance, Richelieu, Madeira, and Chinese embroidery, highlighting their unique characteristics and techniques.
- The book presents a detailed guide to gold embroidery, including the use of different gold threads, purl, and flattened gold wire.
- It emphasizes the importance of using a sturdy foundation for tapestry work, particularly canvas, and explores various stitches for creating different textures and patterns.
- The book explores the various stitches used in linen embroidery, highlighting the beauty of two-sided stitches and showcasing a diverse collection of patterns.
- It offers a comprehensive guide to crochet, including detailed explanations of different stitches, techniques, and patterns.
Learning:
- Plain Sewing: Learn the fundamentals of running, back-stitching, hemming, and top-sewing stitches. Understand how to prepare materials, choose appropriate threads, and ensure neat and durable seams.
- Mending: Master the art of darning, including linen, damask, satin, and invisible darning techniques. Learn how to repair rents and tears effectively, making them nearly invisible.
- Openwork: Discover the beauty and versatility of single and cut openwork, mastering different hem-stitches and ornamental seams. Explore techniques for drawing out threads and creating intricate patterns.
- Net and Damask Stitches: Learn to work with net embroidery, creating decorative patterns with running, cross-stitching, and overcasting techniques. Explore the various stitches used in damask embroidery, including gobelin stitches, flat stitches, and knot stitches.
- White Embroidery: Master various stitches used in white embroidery, including blanket stitch, stem stitch, back-stitch, knot stitch, and post stitch. Learn to pad and raise embroidery for greater dimension and detail.
- Flat Stitch and Gold Embroidery: Understand the principles of flat stitch embroidery and discover various stitches like encroaching flat stitch, Oriental stitch, and plaited stitch. Explore the art of gold embroidery, including techniques for working with different gold threads, purl, and flattened gold wire.
- Tapestry and Linen Embroidery: Explore various stitches used in tapestry, including cross stitch, gobelin stitch, reps stitch, tent stitch, and fishbone stitch. Learn about two-sided stitches like stroke stitch and Italian stitch, and explore patterns specific to linen embroidery.
- Crochet: Master different crochet stitches, including chain stitch, single stitch, plain stitch, treble stitch, knot stitch, bullion stitch, cluster stitch, and double stitch. Learn how to work with different trebles and create a variety of stitches for decorative and practical purposes.
Historical Context:
This text was written around the turn of the 20th century, a time when hand-stitching and embroidery were still widely practiced, even as machine-made textiles became more common. The book reflects this era’s emphasis on detailed craftsmanship and intricate designs. It is a valuable resource for understanding the techniques and aesthetics of needlework popular in the early 1900s.
Facts:
- Plain Sewing: The foundation of all needlework.
- DMC Threads and Cottons: High-quality materials with wide color options.
- Fine Drawing: An almost forgotten art of making invisible darns in cloth using hair.
- Montenegrin Cross Stitch: A unique stitch with a double thread underneath, creating a decorative effect on the wrong side.
- Renaissance Embroidery: Worked entirely in button-holing, connected by button-hole bars.
- Richelieu Embroidery: Similar to Renaissance embroidery, but with picots on the connecting bars.
- Madeira Work: Known for its eyelet holes and fine scalloped edges, originated in the Madeira Islands.
- Chinese Gold Embroidery: Employs a simple technique of laying down a gold thread and securing it with stitches.
- Turkish Gold Embroidery: Involves padding with coarse cotton and working over it with gold or silk thread.
- Tapestry Canvas: Comes in “plain” (single thread) and “Penelope” (double thread) varieties, both suitable for embroidery.
- Two-Sided Stitches: Create a decorative effect on both sides of the fabric, often used in linen embroidery.
- Cross Stitch: The foundation of many other stitches, used for marking and embroidery.
- Gobelin Stitch: Worked over two horizontal threads and one perpendicular, creating a textured surface.
- Tent Stitch: A simple stitch used in conjunction with cross stitch, creating shaded areas.
- Greek Stitch: Similar to cross stitch, but with an oblique inclination, common in Slavic countries.
- Scotch Stitch: Squares of slanting stitches bordered by gobelin stitches.
- Shell Stitch: Rows of long stitches secured by back-stitches, creating shell-like knots.
- Jacquard Stitch: Creates a brocaded effect by working rows of stitches over different thread counts.
- Plush Stitch: Loops secured by cross stitches, creating a velvety texture.
- Chain Stitch: Used for adornment and creating patterns in multiple colors, blending the colors more smoothly than other stitches.
Statistics:
- DMC Knitting Cottons: Available in 360 different shades.
- DMC Threads and Cottons: Available in balls or reels, providing the buyer with a choice.
- Stocking Knitting: Stockings are typically knitted with double thread for greater durability.
- Stocking Proportions: For ordinary-sized stockings, knit plain until the knitted piece forms a square.
- Stocking Intakes: For stockings that cover the knee, knit one and a half times the width of the stocking.
- Stocking Heel: For a well-fitting heel, it should be as long as it is wide.
- Stocking Toe: The toe should be a quarter the length of the whole foot.
- Crochet Trebles: For a triple treble, twist the cotton three times round the needle, for a quadruple one, four times.
- Turkish Stitch: The stitch is worked with two overs and two stitches knitted together.
- Knitted Square: The knitted square pattern involves 27 rows and uses the over stitch, slip stitch, and cross stitch.
- Plain Patent Knitting: Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3, with 4 extra for the edge.
- Knitted Rose: The rose pattern involves 44 rounds and uses over stitch, slip stitch, knit together, and purl stitch.
- Knitted Edging: Cast on 43 stitches and uses a chain stitch, over stitch, slip stitch, knit together, purl stitch, and knit from behind.
Terms:
- Selvedge: The edge of woven fabric that runs along the length, usually stronger than the rest of the fabric.
- Thimble: A small metal cap worn on the finger to protect it from the needle.
- Warp: The lengthwise threads in woven fabric.
- Woof: The crosswise threads in woven fabric.
- Coton à broder D.M.C: DMC embroidery cotton, available in a wide range of colors.
- Coton à tricoter D.M.C: DMC knitting cotton, available in various sizes and colors.
- Coton à repriser D.M.C: DMC darning cotton, used for mending and padding embroidery.
- Fil à dentelle D.M.C: DMC lace thread, used for delicate and intricate stitches.
- Chiné d’or D.M.C: DMC gold thread with a colored silk thread twisted around it.
- Soutache D.M.C: DMC braid, used for edging and adding texture to crochet and embroidery.
Examples:
- Flat Seam: A seam used for joining light materials, with the raw edge enclosed between two layers of stuff.
- Antique Seam: A flat seam used in old embroidered linen articles, where the stuff was too narrow for other seams.
- French Double Seam: Used for joining materials that fray, with the raw edges enclosed between two layers of fabric.
- Hemmed Double Seam: Used in dressmaking for fastening down linings, with the needle passing through six layers of stuff.
- Venetian Embroidery: Scallops worked in high relief, imitating Venetian lace.
- Renaissance Embroidery: Worked entirely in button-holing, with connecting bars left plain.
- Madeira Work: Embroidery characterized by eyelet holes and scalloped edges, often used for collars and cuffs.
- Chinese Gold Embroidery: A technique of laying down a gold thread and securing it with stitches, used for creating delicate patterns on various materials.
- Turkish Gold Embroidery: Embroidery with a padded foundation, worked over with gold or silver thread, often creating a raised effect.
- Plain Patent Knitting, or Brioche Pattern: A stretchy stitch used for clothing, worked in two rows with an over stitch, slip stitch, and knit together.
Conclusion:
The “Encyclopedia of Needlework” is a comprehensive guide to needlework, offering detailed instructions and beautiful illustrations for a wide range of techniques and designs. It provides valuable insights into the historical context of needlework and offers practical advice for choosing materials and executing different stitches. Whether you are a seasoned needleworker or just starting out, this encyclopedia is a valuable resource for exploring the art of needlework and mastering the techniques required for creating beautiful and intricate designs.