Overview:
This book delves into the world of champagne and other sparkling wines, taking readers on a journey through the vineyards and cellars of France. It examines the history of champagne, starting with Dom Perignon’s groundbreaking discovery of the effervescent quality of the wine in the 17th century. The book then explores the various vineyards and regions of the Champagne district, including Ay, Sillery, Verzenay, and Bouzy, highlighting the unique characteristics of each. Readers discover the meticulous process of champagne production, from the vintage to the final bottling, with detailed explanations of the different stages, from pressing the grapes to disgorging the sediment and adding liqueur. The book concludes by exploring other sparkling wines made in France, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, and the United States.
Key Findings:
- The soil of the Champagne district is crucial to the unique flavor of its wines.
- Champagne is not merely a product of nature; it is the result of intense labor, skill, and careful attention to detail throughout every stage of production.
- The process of making champagne begins after the production of other wines is complete.
- Sparkling wine production is not limited to Champagne. Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, and the United States also produce sparkling wines, each with its own distinct characteristics.
Learning:
- Champagne is not merely a sparkling wine; it is a meticulously crafted product: The book provides a detailed and insightful look at the complex and laborious process of champagne production, emphasizing the importance of selecting the right grapes, controlling the fermentation, and disgorging the sediment to create a balanced and flavorful wine.
- The Champagne district is home to diverse and distinctive vineyards: Readers discover the specific geographical locations, soil types, and grape varieties that contribute to the unique characteristics of wines from each vineyard.
- There are many types of sparkling wines beyond Champagne: The book goes beyond Champagne, exploring the history and production of sparkling wines in other regions, including Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, and the United States.
- The quality of a sparkling wine is influenced by its age and the amount of liqueur added: The book examines the importance of aging for both champagne and other sparkling wines, emphasizing how the process of aging can enhance the flavor and complexity of the wine. It also sheds light on how the addition of liqueur impacts the sweetness and character of the wine.
Historical Context:
This book was written in 1879, a time of significant industrial and technological advancements. The text reflects the growing popularity of champagne and other sparkling wines, as well as the increasing demand for them in international markets. The book also reveals the ongoing rivalry between the Champagne district and other wine-producing regions, as they sought to produce their own distinctive sparkling wines.
Facts:
- Dom Perignon, a Benedictine monk, is credited with discovering the method of making sparkling wine: Perignon, who served as the cellarer at the Abbey of Hautvillers, noticed that the wine in his care was naturally effervescent, and he experimented to create a more consistent and controlled sparkling wine.
- Champagne was initially a red wine: It was only in the 17th century, following Perignon’s discovery, that white champagne became popular, and it is still common for champagne producers to blend wines from black grapes and white grapes to create the final product.
- The Maréchale d’Estrées, a successful wine merchant, made Sillery wine famous in the 17th century: The Maréchale, known for her savvy business sense and social influence, was instrumental in raising the profile of Sillery wine, which became a favorite among high society.
- The vineyards of Ay, Sillery, Verzenay, and Bouzy are among the most prestigious in the Champagne district: These vineyards are renowned for their unique characteristics and the high quality of their grapes.
- The wine of Ay is known for its peach-like flavor, while that of Avenay has a strawberry taste: The soil in different vineyards imparts distinct flavor profiles to the wines.
- The ancient abbey of St. Peter at Hautvillers is considered the birthplace of champagne: Dom Perignon made his groundbreaking discovery at this abbey, which is now owned by Moët and Chandon and serves as a farm for the company.
- The vintage in the Champagne district is a time of great excitement and activity: Vintagers from surrounding villages are summoned by beat of drum, and prices for grapes are set by negotiation between the growers and the manufacturers.
- The first wines from the grapes are considered the most precious, while later presses produce progressively lower quality wines: The first press of grapes yields the highest quality wine, with later presses producing wine that is blended with other growths or used for other purposes.
- Only a limited number of vine-proprietors in the Champagne district press their own grapes: The larger champagne houses and some large vine-proprietors have their own pressoirs, but most growers sell their grapes to the manufacturers.
- The French term “vin brut” refers to raw champagne wine before it is finished and bottled: This wine is not yet sparkling, but has the potential to develop the distinctive characteristics of champagne through the fermentation and aging process.
- Champagne bottles are extremely strong: The bottles must withstand the pressure of the gas produced during fermentation, and they are specially made with thick glass and a rounded neck to prevent breakage.
- Champagne is bottled in a process called “tirage”: This process involves transferring the wine from casks to bottles and allowing it to ferment again in the bottle.
- Champagne bottles are shaken daily for weeks or months after bottling: This process helps to force the sediment down to the neck of the bottle, where it can be expelled during the disgorging process.
- The final stage of champagne production involves disgorging the sediment, adding liqueur, and corking the bottle: The liqueur, which can be dry, medium, or sweet, impacts the final taste and character of the champagne.
- Different countries have different preferences for the style of champagne they consume: England prefers dry champagnes, while Russia enjoys sweeter and stronger wines.
- Champagne is considered a healthy and beneficial beverage by some medical professionals: It is often prescribed as a stimulant and is said to be beneficial for certain ailments, including neuralgia and influenza.
- Champagne should not be iced below 50° Fahrenheit: Excessive cold can damage the delicate flavor and bouquet of the wine.
- Grand vintages of champagne are rare and may not necessarily command higher prices than less exceptional vintages: The quality of the vintage does not always translate into higher prices, particularly when the crop is abundant.
- Champagne can continue to improve in quality for up to ten years if stored properly: It is recommended to store champagne in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated cellar, on its side, to prevent the corks from shrinking.
- The consumption of champagne has significantly increased in recent decades: The wine has become more popular worldwide, and its production and export have expanded considerably.
- Sparkling wines are made from a variety of grapes, not just the Chardonnay grape: While Chardonnay is a popular grape for champagne, other grapes, including Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, are also used in the blending process.
Statistics:
- There are upward of 40,000 acres of vineyards in the Champagne district.
- In 1873, grapes in the higher-class vineyards fetched as much as two francs and a quarter per kilogramme (10d. per lb.).
- The price of a hogshead (44 gallons) of Ay wine in 1871 was 800 francs.
- The yield from a hectare (2½ acres) of vines at Ambonnay in 1871 was 45 caques of grapes, weighing some 2¾ tons, which produced 6½ pièces, equal to 286 gallons of wine, or at the rate of 110 gallons per acre.
- Vineyards in the Champagne district sold for between 15 and 20 thousand francs per hectare (£300 per acre).
- The annual loss from bottle breakage during the first eighteen months of a “cuvée” at the Clicquot-Werlé establishment was estimated at 7 percent.
- The “cuvée” at the Clicquot-Werlé establishment is made in the cave of St. William, where 120 hogsheads of wine are hauled up by means of a crane and discharged into the vat daily during the month-long bottling process.
- Moët and Chandon own 900 acres of vineyards in the Champagne district.
- The annual cost of cultivating the vineyards owned by Moët and Chandon was about £40 per acre.
- Moët and Chandon manufacture 5,450 pièces of fine white wine annually, sufficient for 1,360,000 bottles of champagne.
- At the Moët and Chandon establishment, 100,000 bottles of champagne are bottled daily during the month of June.
- The Moët and Chandon cellars in Epernay are nearly seven miles long and store between 11,000,000 and 12,000,000 bottles of champagne.
- The annual consumption of champagne in Great Britain is approximately four million bottles.
- The consumption of champagne in the United States varies between 1.5 and 2 million bottles annually.
- The production of sparkling wine in Hungary is estimated at one million bottles annually.
- The annual production of sparkling wine in Germany is between 4.5 and 5 million bottles.
Terms:
- Crû: A vineyard with a high reputation for the quality of its grapes and wines.
- Cuvée: A blend of wines from different vineyards and vintages.
- Vin Brut: Raw champagne wine before it is finished and bottled.
- Tirage: The process of bottling champagne and allowing it to ferment again in the bottle.
- Sur pointe: The practice of storing bottles necks downwards to force the sediment down.
- Dosage: The addition of liqueur to champagne after disgorging the sediment.
- Vin mousseux: Sparkling wine.
- Vendangeoir: A wine press house.
- Écorcheurs: A medieval band of bandits known for their brutality.
Examples:
- The Maréchale d’Estrées: This 17th-century wine merchant made Sillery famous by promoting its quality and prestige within her social circles.
- Dom Perignon: This Benedictine monk is credited with discovering the method of producing sparkling champagne. He experimented with different vineyards and techniques to produce a more consistent and controlled effervescence in wine.
- The vintage at Ay: This chapter vividly describes the excitement and activity that accompany the annual grape harvest in the Champagne district.
- The pressing of grapes at M. Werlé’s vendangeoir: The author provides a detailed account of the traditional process of pressing grapes, emphasizing the importance of extracting the finest qualities of the fruit.
- The story of Balthazar Constance Dangé-Dorçay: This section recounts the tale of a wealthy landowner who lost his entire fortune through gambling, highlighting the importance of business acumen and the pitfalls of excessive gambling.
- The celebration of St. Jean at Heidsieck and Co.’s establishment: This scene offers a glimpse into the culture of celebration and festivity that surrounds the champagne industry.
- The ancient cellars of the King of Bavaria: This chapter describes the vast and historic cellars beneath the Residenz in Würzburg, showcasing the grandeur and importance of wine storage for royal families.
- The phylloxera epidemic: This chapter explores the devastating effects of the phylloxera insect on the vineyards of the Champagne and other wine-producing regions, illustrating the challenges faced by the wine industry in protecting its crops.
- The manufacture of spurious sparkling wines in the United States: This chapter provides a cautionary tale about the dangers of low-quality sparkling wines that are manufactured using artificial methods and ingredients that can be harmful to health.
- The legacy of Dom Perignon: The book concludes by reflecting on Perignon’s lasting influence on the world of champagne, and how his discovery continues to be celebrated and enjoyed today.
Conclusion:
This book provides a comprehensive and informative overview of the history and production of champagne and other sparkling wines. Readers gain a deep understanding of the meticulous and complex process involved in making this beloved beverage, and they are introduced to the various vineyards and regions that contribute to the diverse world of sparkling wines. The book highlights the importance of quality, craftsmanship, and tradition in the production of these wines, as well as the ongoing quest for innovation and improvement in the industry. Ultimately, readers are left with a greater appreciation for the history and the science behind this truly unique and celebrated beverage.