From Edinburgh to India & Burmah Informative Summary

Overview:

The author, W.G. Burn Murdoch, takes the reader on a journey through India and Burma, starting from Edinburgh and traveling by sea to Bombay. He documents his observations about the people, the sights, and his personal reflections on the culture and the British Empire’s presence in these lands. The journey is filled with fascinating encounters, from meeting the Prince and Princess of Wales to witnessing traditional festivals and village life. The author’s keen eye for detail and his artistic sensibilities bring the vibrant colors and textures of these exotic lands to life.

Throughout his narrative, Murdoch interweaves personal anecdotes, historical context, and insightful observations about the British Empire’s impact on these regions. He provides glimpses into the lives of the people, both native and colonial, and the cultural clashes and harmonies that emerge in this complex society. The journal becomes a fascinating window into a bygone era, offering a unique perspective on the grandeur and complexities of British colonialism in the early 20th century.

Key Findings:

The British Empire’s influence is evident in the bustling cities and the presence of colonial administrators.
India and Burma present a vibrant tapestry of colors, cultures, and traditions.
The author’s fascination with the beauty of the natural world and the human figure is reflected in his detailed descriptions and sketches.
There are stark contrasts between the luxury of colonial life and the poverty and struggles faced by the native population.

Learning:

British Empire: The reader gains a greater understanding of the British Empire’s vast influence in India and Burma and its impact on the local societies and cultures.
- The author highlights the colonial hierarchy, with officials like Viceroys and Residents exercising power and managing the administration of these regions.
- The presence of numerous British soldiers and administrators underscores the colonial presence and the control it exerts over the local population.
- The text demonstrates how the British implemented their systems and institutions, from railway construction and administration to the organization of events like Royal visits and ceremonies.
India: The reader learns about the diverse and fascinating Indian culture, including its religious practices, traditional customs, and social hierarchies.
- The author details the various religious practices and beliefs of different groups like Hindus, Muslims, and Parsis, showcasing the intricate web of faith and tradition in India.
- Murdoch observes the distinct clothing styles and social customs of the diverse populations, from the elaborate attire of Indian princes to the traditional dress of village women.
- The author’s descriptions of everyday life in Indian villages, including their markets, festivals, and interactions with colonial officials, provide a glimpse into the local culture and its interaction with the British.
Burma: The reader gains insights into the rich culture and beauty of Burma, including its unique traditions, stunning pagodas, and the peaceful lifestyle of the Burmese people.
- The author describes the breathtaking architecture of the Shwey Dagon Pagoda in Rangoon and the Arrakan Pagoda in Mandalay, emphasizing their beauty and significance in Burmese culture.
- The text highlights the Burmese people’s peaceful and welcoming nature, their reverence for Buddhism, and their deep connection to nature.
- Murdoch showcases the vibrant colors and intricate details of Burmese art and crafts, from their silk garments and lacquerware to the elaborate carvings adorning their pagodas.
Travel and Observation: The reader can learn about the methods of travel and the challenges of navigating these regions in the early 20th century.
- The author details his various modes of transportation, from luxurious P&O steamers to rickety bullock carts and slow-moving cargo boats.
- Murdoch’s journey illustrates the difficulties of communication, particularly due to language barriers and cultural differences, and how he uses his wits and humor to overcome these obstacles.
- The text demonstrates the importance of observation and the value of keeping a detailed journal as a means of understanding and appreciating the richness of diverse cultures.

Historical Context:

The journal takes place during the early 20th century, a period of British imperial expansion and influence in Asia.
The text is set against the backdrop of the Prince and Princess of Wales’s historic visit to India and Burma, highlighting the significance of this event in the context of British colonialism.
The author references historical events like the Siege of Seringapatam and the annexation of Upper Burma, providing insights into the British conquest and control of these regions.

Facts:

British Empire: The British Empire’s presence is evident in the bustling cities like Bombay, the colonial administration, and the military installations in India and Burma.
Indian Religions: There are distinct religions in India, including Hinduism, Islam, and Parsi beliefs, showcasing the intricate web of faith and tradition in the country.
Indian Social Hierarchy: India exhibits a complex social hierarchy, with various castes and groups, reflected in their attire, customs, and interactions.
Indian Clothing: Different communities in India have distinctive clothing styles. For example, Indian princes wear elaborate silks and jewels, while village women wear colorful saris and traditional dress.
Burmese Culture: Burmese people are known for their peaceful and welcoming nature, and their reverence for Buddhism is deeply rooted in their culture.
Burmese Pagodas: The Shwey Dagon Pagoda in Rangoon and the Arrakan Pagoda in Mandalay are two of the most significant pagodas in Burma, renowned for their intricate carvings and golden spires.
Burmese Art: Burmese art and crafts are known for their vibrant colors, intricate details, and skillful craftsmanship, reflected in their silk garments, lacquerware, and carvings.
Parsis: Parsis, who fled religious persecution in Persia, are known for their business acumen and their distinctive clothing style, which includes a black mitre-like hat.
Parsis in India: The Parsis make up a small but influential community in India, contributing significantly to the country’s economy and commerce.
Royal Visits: Royal visits by the Prince and Princess of Wales to India and Burma were grand events, showcasing the British Empire’s power and influence.
Royal Visits – Ceremony: These events were marked by elaborate ceremonies, including parades, salutes, and receptions at Government Houses and palaces.
Indian Politics: The author highlights the complexities of Indian politics, mentioning officials like Viceroys and Residents who hold positions of power and manage the administration of these regions.
British Administration: British officials implement their systems and institutions in India and Burma, from railway construction and administration to the organization of grand events like Royal visits.
British Influence: The British influence on the culture and infrastructure of India and Burma is evident in their buildings, transportation networks, and institutions.
British Administration – Challenges: The author reveals the challenges of colonial administration, from managing local populations and dealing with cultural differences to navigating complex political landscapes.
India – Trade: India has a bustling commercial sector, with numerous markets and traders offering a wide array of goods, reflecting its economic vitality.
British Influence – Burma: The British presence in Burma is evident in the colonial administration, the development of infrastructure, and the introduction of Western institutions.
Burmese Religion: Buddhism is the dominant religion in Burma, influencing the people’s lifestyle, art, and culture.
Burmese Temples: Pagodas are a ubiquitous feature of Burmese architecture, serving as places of worship and centers of community life.
Burmese Hospitality: The Burmese people are renowned for their hospitality and their welcoming nature.
Burmese Food: The author mentions the use of ngapi, a Burmese delicacy made from fermented fish, showcasing the unique flavors and ingredients in Burmese cuisine.

Statistics:

Indian Population: India has a population of over 287 million inhabitants.
Parsi Population: The Parsis constitute only one-tenth of a million people in India.
Indian Railway Mileage: The Indian railway system in 1901 had 25,373 miles of track, exceeding the mileage of France and Austria-Hungary combined.
Cauvery Falls: The Cauvery Falls, a source of hydroelectric power for the Kolar gold fields, produce 11,000 horse power, which is transmitted over 93 miles by wire.
Gairsoppa Falls: The Gairsoppa Falls have a drop of 829 feet, cascading into a deep pool.
Burmese Oil Production: Burma’s crude oil production in 1904 was 116 million gallons, with the Yenangyaung field alone producing 73 million gallons.
Burmese Oil Value: In 1902, the Burmese oil fields yielded 55 million gallons of oil, with a value of 250 gallons per sovereign.
Burmese Steamer Fleet: The Irrawaddy Flotilla Company owns a fleet of 360 vessels, including steamers and barges, used for transporting goods and passengers on the river.
Indian Railway Wages: Skilled wood-carvers in India earn 1s. 4d. per day, which is considered good pay.
Tippoo’s Jewels: Tippoo Sultan, a ruler of Mysore, accumulated vast stores of diamonds and pearls, which were looted after his defeat by the British.
Shwey Dagon Pagoda: The Hte, a metal structure on top of the Shwey Dagon Pagoda, is believed to be worth £27,000, with the remaining portion financed by public donations.
Maharajah’s Palace: The Maharajah of Mysore is constructing a grand palace, which is anticipated to be one of the finest in the world, utilizing thousands of skilled craftsmen and a wealth of materials.
Channapatna – Profit: The owner of a local store in Channapatna makes a profit of 1,300 rupees per month selling a headache medicine.
Indian Army: Lumsden’s Horse, an Indian cavalry regiment, suffered heavy losses during the Battle of Houtneck in the Boer War.
Burmese Geese: The author encounters numerous geese on his journey up the Irrawaddy River, indicating their abundance in the region.
Thebaw’s Palace: Thebaw, the last king of Burma, was deposed by the British, and his palace in Mandalay was subsequently looted.
Benares – Gods: Hindu mythology recognizes 333,000,000 gods.

Terms:

Ayah: A female nurse or caretaker, typically in India.
Bundabast: Arrangement, preparation, or plan.
Boy: A personal servant or attendant, typically a male.
Bungalow: A detached house, often with a verandah, typically found in India.
Cheroot: A cigar with one end unlighted, often made in India.
Chuprassies: Messengers or servants in red Imperial livery.
Dak Bungalow: A government rest-house for travelers, often found in remote areas.
Gharry: A horse-drawn carriage, typically in India.
Ghats: Steps leading down to a river, often found in India, particularly in Benares.
Gymkhana: A club or social event with sporting activities, typically in India.
Hte: A decorative metal structure placed on top of a Burmese pagoda, often adorned with bells and jewels.
Jheel: A lake or swamp, typically in India.
Kachins: An indigenous people group inhabiting the mountainous regions of northern Burma and China.
Kyoung: A monastery or temple in Burma, often associated with Buddhism.
Lungy: A long piece of cloth, typically worn as a skirt by Burmese women.
Maharajah: A king or prince in India, especially in the princely states.
Mahout: An elephant driver.
Memsahib: A European woman, especially a wife or mistress of a British official in India.
Missahahib: A European man, especially a British official in India.
Nat: A spirit or supernatural being in Burmese mythology.
Ngapi: A Burmese delicacy made from fermented fish.
Pandol: A temporary structure, often adorned with decorations, erected for festivals and celebrations.
Parsis: A religious group originating from Persia, who migrated to India, known for their fire-worship.
Phungyi: A Buddhist monk in Burma.
Putsoe: A long piece of cloth worn as a kilt by Burmese men.
Pwé: A traditional Burmese theatrical performance.
Raj: A term referring to the British rule in India, often used to describe the colonial administration.
Sahib: A term of respect used to address a European man, particularly a British official, in India.
Sawbwa: A king or prince in the Shan States of Burma.
Shamiana: A tent or awning, often used for receptions and ceremonies.
Shikari: A hunter or guide.
Sowar: A cavalryman or horseman, particularly in India.
Tamein: A long skirt worn by Burmese women.
Tank: A pond or lake, often found in India.
Tomasha: A show, spectacle, or festive gathering.
Zereba: A barricade or enclosure, often made of thorns or other materials.

Examples:

The Swiss Convert: An English officer befriends a Swiss man who dislikes the British Empire. By lending him books and newspapers, he changes his opinion about the Empire and his own life in India.
The Discontented Lady: A lady, feeling uncomfortable with the local customs and lack of clothing, books a return passage to England.
The Mongoose Man: A snake charmer demonstrates how his mongoose can eat a snake’s head, captivating the audience with this remarkable feat.
The Lost Trousseau: A man arrives in Bombay to join his fiancee, only to discover that he has lost her trousseau during his travels.
The Singing Passengers: Passengers on a voyage sing “I want you, my Honey,” showcasing the social interactions and entertainment on board.
The Lost Doormat: A British officer finds that the only item stolen from his house is his doormat, which his watchman had taken with him to his new job.
The Opera Thief: A man escapes from prison, dresses as a driver, and even takes a lady to the prison to meet the Governor.
The Dancing Woman: A woman performs a traditional Indian dance in front of a shrine dedicated to the cholera goddess to appease her and drive away the disease.
The Jungle Fowl: The author encounters a jungle fowl in the wild, experiencing a thrilling encounter with this elusive bird.
The Elephant Encounter: The author encounters an elephant in the wild, describing its size, power, and behavior.
The Ghost Patroller: A railway patroller witnesses a ghost, providing a glimpse into the folklore and beliefs surrounding these spirits.
The Ant Rescue: The author watches ants rescuing their cocoons from a bowl of water, showcasing the resilience and teamwork of these small creatures.
The Plague Inspection: The author is subjected to a plague inspection on a train, demonstrating the health regulations in place during the early 20th century.
The Wailing Servant: The author’s servant expresses his sadness at the departure of his employer by wailing, illustrating a common cultural practice in India.
The Disappearing Thief: A thief breaks into a bungalow while the occupants are out, stealing only a few silver items and escaping into the night.
The Gambling Priest: A Chinese priest entertains guests by participating in gambling games, illustrating the playful nature of some religious figures.
The Elephant Ride: The author experiences a unique ride on an elephant in Bhamo, showcasing the use of elephants as transportation in the region.
The Punitive Expedition: The author learns about a military operation to subdue the Chins, an indigenous people group in Burma, demonstrating the British Empire’s control over these territories.
The Kachin Dances: The author witnesses a Kachin dance performance, showcasing the unique cultural traditions of this indigenous group.
The Mahseer Catch: The author catches a Mahseer fish in a river in Burma, illustrating the sport fishing opportunities available in the region.
The Leopard Encounter: The author encounters a leopard in his bungalow at night, highlighting the dangers and thrills of living in close proximity to wildlife.
The Orchid Hunt: The author and his companions search for orchids in the jungle, showcasing the region’s biodiversity and its beauty.
The River Defiles: The author witnesses the scenic beauty of the Irrawaddy River Defiles, a notable geological feature in Burma.
The Burmese Boatmen: The author encounters numerous Burmese boatmen on the Irrawaddy, describing their skills in navigating the river and their unique way of life.
The Geese Encounter: The author observes large flocks of geese on the riverbank, highlighting the abundant wildlife in the region.
The Tragic Steamer Wreck: The author hears about a steamer that caught fire, resulting in the deaths of many Burmese, highlighting the dangers of river travel and the lack of safety measures.
The Kachin Swordmakers: The author learns about the traditional art of Kachin swordmaking, conducted under the secrecy of the moonlight.
The Chinese House: The author visits a Chinese businessman’s home in Bhamo, describing its intricate design and showcasing the cultural traditions of this community.
The Burmese Priest: The author interacts with a Burmese priest, learning about their role in society and their teachings.
The Golden Buddha: The author describes the awe-inspiring sight of the golden Buddha in the Arrakan Pagoda in Mandalay, highlighting its significance in Burmese Buddhism.
The Royal Barge: The author witnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales being transported across a lake in a grand barge adorned with lamps and flowers.
The Shan Princess: The author meets a Shan princess from Keng-hung, a state in China, showcasing the cultural diversity of Burma.
The Shan Camp: The author visits a Shan camp, a gathering of various indigenous tribes from Burma and China, witnessing their unique customs and traditions.
The Dance of the Padaung: The author observes the distinctive dance of the Padaung women, who wear multiple brass rings on their necks.
The Prince and Princess of Wales: The author attends several events associated with the royal couple’s visit to Burma, highlighting the pomp and ceremony surrounding their tour.
The Prome Pagoda: The author visits the Shwe Sandaw Pagoda in Prome, a prominent pagoda in the region, marveling at its architecture and beauty.
The Arrival of Lord Minto: The author witnesses the arrival of the new Viceroy of India, Lord Minto, and the departure of the previous Viceroy, Lord Curzon.
The Royal Scots: The author observes the Royal Scots regiment marching through a crowd of natives in Bombay, showcasing the diverse demographics of British subjects in India.
The Wedding in a Far Town: The author attends a wedding in Bombay, a poignant event for those newly married and far from their families.
The Indian Soldier: The author encounters numerous Indian soldiers, both British and native, on his travels, reflecting the military presence and the complexities of colonial rule.

Conclusion:

W.G. Burn Murdoch’s “From Edinburgh to India & Burmah” is a captivating journey through the landscapes, cultures, and experiences of India and Burma in the early 20th century. His vivid descriptions and insightful observations reveal the complexities of British colonialism, the beauty of the natural world, and the diversity of the local populations. The reader gains a fascinating glimpse into the lives of those who lived and worked in these regions, both colonial officials and the indigenous peoples, experiencing the unique blend of cultures and the impact of the British Empire.

The journal highlights the grandeur and importance of royal visits, but also exposes the harsh realities of colonial rule and the struggle of local communities under British control. Through his detailed descriptions and artistic sensibility, Murdoch transports the reader to these vibrant lands, immersing them in the sights, sounds, and cultures of India and Burma.

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