Overview:
Dr. Henry M. Field, a renowned American traveler and writer, embarks on a journey across the globe in 1875, chronicling his experiences in “From Egypt to Japan”. His first stop, Egypt, provides a fascinating juxtaposition between ancient civilization, represented by the Pyramids and temples, and the modern state under the rule of the Khedive Ismail Pasha. Field paints a vivid picture of Cairo, a cosmopolitan city teeming with European influence yet maintaining its vibrant Oriental character. He highlights the Khedive’s ambitious modernizations, including railroads, irrigation projects, and the Suez Canal, while also raising concerns about the country’s burgeoning debt and the pervasive practice of forced labor.
Field’s journey then leads him to India, where he delves into the intricacies of Indian culture and religion. He explores the bustling city of Bombay, observing the contrasting lifestyles of the wealthy Parsis and the impoverished Hindoos. Field witnesses the elaborate Hindu worship practices, including the Méla at Allahabad, a month-long festival dedicated to bathing in the sacred Ganges, and the Towers of Silence where Parsis expose their dead to be devoured by vultures. His journey continues through the Punjab, where he encounters the fierce Sikh warriors and witnesses the legacy of the Great Mogul Empire in Agra and Delhi. Field’s account culminates with a breathtaking journey into the Himalayas, offering a captivating glimpse of the mountain’s natural beauty and the wildlife that inhabits its slopes.
Key Findings:
- Egypt:
- A blend of ancient and modern, with the Pyramids symbolizing a glorious past and the Khedive’s ambitious projects representing a striving for progress.
- The Khedive, despite his energetic and ambitious reforms, has brought Egypt to the brink of bankruptcy.
- Forced labor and heavy taxation persist under the Khedive’s rule, mirroring the oppressive conditions of the Israelites under the Pharaohs.
- The new judicial system, spearheaded by Nubar Pasha, holds the potential for true justice and a step towards a more equitable society.
- India:
- A diverse land, marked by stark social and economic disparities, with remnants of ancient empires and traditions clashing with British rule.
- The Hindoos cling to their traditional practices, including elaborate religious rituals and unwavering devotion to caste systems.
- The legacy of the Great Moguls persists in the architectural wonders of Agra and Delhi, offering a glimpse into a bygone era of lavish extravagance.
- The threat of a Russian invasion looms large, although Field argues that the geographic and logistical challenges render it practically impossible in the near future.
- Religion:
- Islam, despite being a proselytizing faith, remains deeply intertwined with political power, making significant societal changes slow and challenging.
- The rigid interpretations of Islam, including the treatment of women and the glorification of warfare, create a chasm between the religion and the ideals of human freedom and brotherhood.
- Hinduism, rooted in deeply ingrained superstitions and idolatry, perpetuates a system of social and religious oppression.
- Despite their stark differences, the religions of Egypt and India offer glimpses of the human search for meaning and connection to a higher power.
Learning:
- The Power of Tradition: Field highlights the resilience of traditional practices and religious beliefs in both Egypt and India. He argues that while these traditions can provide a sense of identity and stability, they can also perpetuate harmful social and political systems.
- The Impact of Westernization: Field observes the rapid changes happening in both Egypt and India due to the influence of Western technology, politics, and culture. He questions the benefits and drawbacks of modernization, exploring how it impacts the lives of people at different socioeconomic levels.
- The Complexity of Colonialism: Field examines the dynamics of British colonialism in India, noting both the benefits of British rule (improved infrastructure, law enforcement) and the inherent challenges of managing a diverse and complex society.
- The Importance of Justice: Field underscores the critical role of justice and human rights in societal progress. He highlights the oppressive nature of forced labor in Egypt and the inherent inequalities within the caste system in India, underscoring the need for a more equitable and humane approach to governing.
- The Impermanence of Power: Field emphasizes the fleeting nature of power and authority, illustrated through the rise and fall of the Egyptian Pharaohs, the Great Moguls, and the Delhi Sultanate. He notes how the grand palaces and monuments of these past rulers stand as testaments to the passing of empires and the enduring power of human ambition.
Historical Context:
Field’s travelogue captures a pivotal moment in the history of both Egypt and India. The Khedive’s ambitious modernization efforts are shaping the future of Egypt, while the British Empire is solidifying its control over India, navigating the complexities of governing a diverse and culturally rich land. The threat of a Russian invasion looms over India, underscoring the geopolitical tensions of the time. This context provides a backdrop for understanding the cultural and religious landscapes of the regions, as well as the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead for both countries.
Facts:
- The Great Pyramid of Cheops: The largest structure ever built by human hands, covering eleven acres, and estimated to have taken 100,000 men 20 years to build.
- The Nile River: The source of the Nile remains a mystery to geographers despite its vital role in Egyptian civilization for millennia.
- The Sacred Bulls of Sakkara: These bulls were worshipped as deities in ancient Egypt, and their tombs, discovered by Mariette Bey, are a testament to their importance.
- The Absence of Horses and Camels in Ancient Egyptian Tombs: The lack of these animals in ancient Egyptian artwork suggests their limited role in the period.
- The Colossal Statue of Rameses the Great: This once majestic statue, standing 50 feet high, now lies buried in a puddle of water, a stark reminder of the impermanence of human power.
- The “Lost Arts” of Ancient Egypt: Ancient Egyptian civilization demonstrates a high degree of sophistication in the mechanic arts, surpassing modern capabilities in some areas, contradicting theories of gradual human evolution.
- The Prevalence of Blindness in Egypt: The intense sunlight and neglected eye inflammation cause high rates of blindness, highlighting the precariousness of life in Egypt.
- The Copts of Assiout: These Christians claim to be descendants of the ancient Egyptians, and remain a target of missionary work.
- The “Taskmaster” in Assiout: The presence of a taskmaster overseeing laborers in Assiout reflects the persistence of forced labor, much like that found in the time of Moses.
- The Role of the City Gate in Ancient Egypt: The city gate, as in ancient times, is a place of honor and justice in Assiout, showcasing the continuity of certain cultural practices.
- The Tombs of Beni-Hassan: These rock-cut tombs, dating back over 4,000 years, demonstrate the ancient Egyptians’ sophisticated architectural skills and their reverence for the dead.
- The “Dolce Far Niente” of the Nile: The languid life of floating along the Nile offers a respite from the pressures of modern life, but can also lead to a sense of monotony.
- The City of Thebes: This ancient capital of Egypt was a powerful center of civilization and a city of magnificent temples and monuments.
- The Avenue of Sphinxes at Karnak: This colossal avenue, stretching over two miles, represents the grandeur and scale of ancient Egyptian architecture.
- The Temple of Karnac: This monumental complex, constructed over 25 centuries, represents the collective effort and ambition of generations of Egyptian rulers.
- The Egyptian Doctrine of a Future Life: The ancient Egyptians believed in the immortality of the soul, the resurrection of the body, and the judgment of souls in the afterlife, beliefs reflected in their elaborate tombs and funeral rites.
- The Scarab Beetle: This symbol in Egyptian religion represents life reborn from death, showcasing their belief in the cyclical nature of existence.
- The “Book of the Dead: This collection of texts, found buried with mummies, details the prayers, hymns, and answers to be given during the soul’s journey through the underworld.
- The Uniqueness of the Ten Commandments: The Hebrew scriptures, unlike the Egyptian religious texts, contain a distinct ethical code, namely the Ten Commandments, showcasing the moral depth and uniqueness of the Mosaic Law.
- The “City of God” (Allahabad): This sacred city, at the confluence of the Jumna and Ganges, attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims every year, demonstrating the enduring power of religious belief.
- The Méla: This grand religious festival, characterized by mass bathing in the Ganges and elaborate processions, offers a glimpse into the fervor of Hindu faith.
- The Sikh Warriors: This warrior sect, while rejecting idolatry, holds a reverent attitude towards their sacred text, highlighting the enduring pull of traditional beliefs.
- The Golden Temple of Amritzur: This holy temple, built of white marble and topped with copper plates, is the center of Sikh worship.
- The Towers of Silence: These towers, found on Malabar Hill, serve as places for exposing the dead, reflecting the Parsis’ unique religious practices and reverence for the elements.
- The “Hospital for Animals” in Bombay: This unique institution showcases the Hindoo’s respect for all life, even extending it to animals.
- The Caves of Elephanta: These ancient rock-cut temples, with their colossal statues and symbolic imagery, offer a testament to the artistic and religious sophistication of ancient India.
- The Peacock Throne: This legendary throne, once held in the Hall of Audience in the Delhi Fort, was a symbol of the Great Mogul’s vast wealth and power.
- The Palace of the Great Mogul: This magnificent complex, built by Akbar the Great, features intricate marble pavilions, open courts, and gardens, showcasing the grandeur of Mogul architecture.
- The Pearl Mosque: This mosque, known for its simple outline and delicate architectural details, is a testament to the artistic brilliance of Mogul architecture.
- The Summer Palace of Akbar: Located at Futtehpore-Sikri, this complex features a vast quadrangle of palaces, mosques, and tombs, showcasing the opulence of the Mogul Empire.
- The Tomb of Selim: This white marble tomb, housed in the Futtehpore-Sikri complex, is a testament to the reverence for religious figures.
- The Kootub Minar: This tower, standing over 600 years, is the loftiest isolated tower in the world, offering a testament to the architectural prowess of the Delhi Sultanate.
- The Cashmere Gate: This gate, famously breached by British troops during the Siege of Delhi in 1857, represents the bravery and determination of British forces in quelling the Indian Mutiny.
- The “Bali” This unique cart, drawn by oxen, offers a glimpse into the peculiar modes of transportation found in India.
- The Himalayas: These mountain ranges, the highest in the world, offer breathtaking views and a glimpse into the raw beauty of nature.
- The “Hill Stations” of Mussoorie and Landour: These straggling villages, perched high on the Himalayas, offer a retreat for the English during the summer months.
- The Sewalic Range: This range, at the foot of the Himalayas, holds historical and geological significance, showcasing the rich cultural and natural heritage of the region.
Statistics:
- The Population of Bombay: Over a million, making it the second largest city in the British Empire.
- The Population of Allahabad: 130,000, a growing city due to its role as a railway center.
- The Number of Students at the Cairo University: Over 10,000, demonstrating the enduring legacy of the Islamic institution.
- The Number of Pilgrims at the Allahabad Méla: Estimated at over 50,000, though the number can swell to millions during peak periods.
- The Value of the Peacock Throne: Estimated at 30 million dollars, representing the vast wealth of the Great Mogul Empire.
- The Length of the “Python” Shot by a Hunter in Mussoorie: 18 feet, highlighting the diversity and size of wildlife found in the Himalayas.
- The Number of Leopards Captured in Traps at Landour: 4, illustrating the abundance of leopards in the region.
- The Height of Mussoorie and Landour: 7,500 feet above sea level, showcasing the elevation of these hill stations.
- The Distance Between the Himalayas and the Observer in Landour: 70 miles, underscoring the immense scale of the mountain range.
- The Number of Elephants Captured in a Single Hunt in the Terai: 24, highlighting the abundance of wildlife in the region.
- The Number of British Troops Gathered at the Delhi Camp of Exercise: 40 regiments, demonstrating the strength of the British military presence in India.
- The Population of Delhi: Over 160,000, showcasing the enduring legacy of this historic city.
- The Length of the Delhi Wall: 7 miles, outlining the city’s size and defensive capabilities.
- The Number of Mosques in Delhi: Over 40, signifying the city’s role as a center of Islamic faith.
- The Number of Moslems in India: Over 40 million, highlighting the significant proportion of the population adhering to this religion.
- The Number of Sepoys Involved in the Siege of Delhi: 60,000, illustrating the scale of the rebellion that confronted British troops.
- The Number of British Troops Involved in the Siege of Delhi: 7,000, demonstrating the courage and determination of the British forces in securing the city.
- The Number of Years the Taj Mahal Took to Build: 17 years, showcasing the monumental effort and ambition behind its construction.
- The Number of Workmen Employed in Building the Taj Mahal: 20,000, highlighting the vast scale of the undertaking.
- The Length of the Avenue of Cypresses Leading to the Taj Mahal: One-third of a mile, creating a dramatic and symbolic approach to this architectural wonder.
Terms:
- Dahabeeah: A traditional Egyptian boat, with a cabin and upper deck, used for leisurely trips along the Nile.
- Cordon Sanitaire: A quarantine cordon, imposed to prevent the spread of disease.
- Lazaretto: A quarantine station for ships suspected of carrying infectious diseases.
- Shadoof: A simple irrigation device, used to lift water from the Nile and distribute it to fields.
- Copts: A Christian community in Egypt, claiming to be descendants of the ancient Egyptians.
- Zenana: The women’s quarters in a Muslim or Hindu household.
- Gharri: A native carriage in India, resembling a box on wheels.
- Coolie: An unskilled laborer in India.
- Mahout: An elephant trainer or driver in India.
- Méla: A large religious festival in India, often marked by mass bathing in sacred rivers.
Examples:
- The story of the Indian prince who married a young pupil from the American Mission School in Cairo: This romantic tale highlights the role of missions in fostering cross-cultural relationships and transforming lives.
- The massacre of the Mamelukes by Mehemet Ali: This event showcases the brutality of the ruling class and the rise of a new power in Egypt.
- The tale of Jehanara, the faithful daughter of Shah Jehan: This story exemplifies the enduring power of love and loyalty in the face of adversity.
- The story of the “snake-charmer” who entertained the travelers in Bombay: This example highlights the bizarre and sometimes cruel practices found in Indian culture.
- The incident of the fire at the Allahabad Méla: This tragic event underlines the dangers of religious fanaticism and its disregard for human life.
- The story of the tiger encounter in Dehra Doon: This incident provides a vivid illustration of the presence of wild animals in the region, reminding travelers of the dangers lurking in nature.
- The description of the “dandi” and the “jahnpan”: These examples showcase the unique and sometimes precarious modes of transportation found in the Himalayas.
- The capture of leopards in traps at Landour: This incident demonstrates the ingenuity of locals in dealing with dangerous wildlife.
- The story of the “python” encountered by the hunter’s wife: This anecdote highlights the impressive size and variety of snakes found in the Himalayas.
- The account of the “Cashmere Gate” during the Siege of Delhi: This dramatic story illustrates the courage and determination of British troops in securing the city.
Conclusion:
Dr. Henry M. Field’s “From Egypt to Japan” offers a captivating and insightful journey through two of the world’s most ancient and fascinating civilizations. He highlights the contrasting landscapes, cultural practices, and religious beliefs of Egypt and India. His travelogue serves as a reminder of the enduring power of tradition, the complexities of colonialism, and the ongoing search for a more just and equitable world. While Field acknowledges the beauty and richness of these societies, he also underscores the dangers of blind faith, the inherent inequality of caste systems, and the threat of oppressive governments. His experiences offer a valuable perspective on the challenges and opportunities facing these nations in the late 19th century.
[1] Field later acknowledges that this incident was likely misrepresented and that the police were not involved in the procession. He emphasizes his intention to portray the scene accurately and regrets any unintentional inaccuracies. [2] This historian is likely referring to Elphinstone, author of “History of India” published in 1841, who provides a detailed account of the Mogul Empire. [3] Field likely references the reign of Aurangzeb’s successors, such as Bahadur Shah I, whose rule was marked by internal conflicts and weakened authority. [4] Field notes that the distance to the Himalayas from his vantage point was over 70 miles. This reinforces the scale and scope of the mountain range.