Germany, Bohemia, and Hungary, Visited in 1837. Vol. II Informative Summary

Overview:

This book documents the travels of Reverend G.R. Gleig through Germany, Bohemia, and Hungary in 1837. Gleig, a chaplain in the British Army, offers detailed observations of the landscapes, people, and customs he encounters. He documents the unique cultural nuances, particularly in Bohemia, including the role of women in carrying burdens, the reliance on veal as a primary food source, and the unusual practice of professional cow-herds. He shares insights into the social hierarchy of the time, exploring the stark contrast between the lifestyles of the nobility and those of the peasantry. Beyond observing local customs, Gleig offers fascinating historical accounts of various places he visits, particularly the castles of Bohemia and the Einsiedlerstein, a former baronial castle now used as a hermitage. He also delves into the history of the Reformation in Bohemia, highlighting the importance of the University of Prague as a center of learning and dissent. Gleig’s journey ultimately reveals the rich tapestry of Europe in the 19th century, as seen through the eyes of a perceptive observer.

Key Findings:

The role of women in Bohemian society is vastly different from that of women in England. They are expected to carry heavy burdens, perform much of the field work, and have a shorter lifespan due to the harsh conditions they face.
Veal is a primary food source in Germany and Bohemia, with beef and mutton being considered luxury items.
The nobility in Bohemia typically live in castles or palaces that are located within or very near towns and villages. They do not have large estates or parks like their English counterparts.
The agricultural system in Bohemia is characterized by a lack of tenant farmers. Each person cultivates their own land, whether it be a small plot or a vast estate.
The Einsiedlerstein, a former baronial stronghold, is a striking example of the architecture and lifestyle of the robber-knights and barons of the middle ages.
The history of the Reformation in Bohemia reveals a deep-seated resistance to the doctrines and practices of the Roman Catholic Church, particularly regarding the use of Latin in worship and the celibacy of the clergy.
The University of Prague played a pivotal role in the development of the Reformation, with scholars like John Huss and Jerome of Prague advocating for reform and challenging the authority of the Pope.
The Moravian Brethren, a group of Hussites who sought refuge in the mountains, developed their own distinct religious practices and beliefs, emphasizing simplicity and community.
Despite the rich history of dissent in Bohemia, the power of the Habsburg dynasty eventually led to the suppression of Protestantism and the establishment of Catholicism as the dominant religion.

Learning:

The reader will learn about the different roles of women in society, comparing the harsh realities faced by women in Bohemia to the more egalitarian system in England.
The reader will gain insights into the unique cultural practices of the Bohemian people, including their diet, farming methods, and social hierarchy.
The reader will develop an understanding of the architecture and history of the medieval castles of Bohemia, particularly the Einsiedlerstein, which offers a glimpse into the lives of medieval knights and barons.
The reader will learn about the complex history of the Reformation in Bohemia, exploring the impact of prominent figures like John Huss and Jerome of Prague.
The reader will gain a deeper understanding of the significance of the University of Prague as a center of learning and dissent during the Reformation.
The reader will learn about the Moravian Brethren, a group of Hussites who sought refuge in the mountains and developed their own unique religious practices and beliefs.
The reader will understand the rise of Jesuitism in Bohemia and its role in the suppression of Protestantism.
The reader will learn about the distinct political system of Hungary, contrasting it with the absolute monarchy of Austria and the limited monarchy of England.

Historical Context: The book is set in the 19th century, following the Napoleonic Wars. While the author does not directly mention specific political events, it is clear that the effects of the Napoleonic Wars are still being felt throughout Europe. There is a sense of lingering tension, and the author notes the presence of large military forces in many of the areas he visits. There is also a sense of change and progress, as the author observes the growing influence of industry and trade in the region.

Facts:

Bohemian women: Bohemian women are expected to carry all burdens, including firewood, grass, butter, eggs, and hay.
Bohemian food: Veal is the primary source of animal protein in Germany and Bohemia, while beef and mutton are considered luxury items.
Bohemian nobility: The nobility in Bohemia typically live in castles or palaces that are located within or very near towns and villages. They do not have large estates or parks like their English counterparts.
Bohemian agriculture: The agricultural system in Bohemia is characterized by a lack of tenant farmers. Each person cultivates their own land, whether it be a small plot or a vast estate.
Bohemian castles: The Einsiedlerstein, a former baronial stronghold, is a striking example of the architecture and lifestyle of the robber-knights and barons of the middle ages.
Bohemian religion: The history of the Reformation in Bohemia reveals a deep-seated resistance to the doctrines and practices of the Roman Catholic Church, particularly regarding the use of Latin in worship and the celibacy of the clergy.
John Huss: John Huss was a prominent Bohemian reformer who challenged the authority of the Pope and was ultimately burned at the stake.
Jerome of Prague: Jerome of Prague was a follower of John Huss and was also executed for his beliefs.
The University of Prague: The University of Prague played a pivotal role in the development of the Reformation, with scholars like John Huss and Jerome of Prague advocating for reform and challenging the authority of the Pope.
Moravian Brethren: The Moravian Brethren were a group of Hussites who sought refuge in the mountains and developed their own distinct religious practices and beliefs, emphasizing simplicity and community.
Jesuitism in Bohemia: The Jesuits played a significant role in the suppression of Protestantism in Bohemia, establishing their own university and gaining increasing influence.
Ferdinand I: The accession of Ferdinand I to the throne marked a shift in the religious landscape of Bohemia, with the suppression of Protestantism and the establishment of Catholicism as the dominant religion.
Maximilian: The reign of Maximilian was a period of relative religious tolerance in Bohemia, with the Augsburg Confession and Calvinist beliefs gaining acceptance.
Rodolph II: Rodolph II was a Bohemian king who was a patron of the arts and sciences. He gathered renowned scholars like Tycho Brahe and Kepler to his court.
Thirty Years’ War: The Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648) was a devastating conflict that further suppressed Protestantism in Bohemia and resulted in significant political and social changes.
The Carolinum: The Carolinum was the university in Prague that was a center of Protestant education. It was eventually closed down by the Habsburgs.
The Clementinum: The Clementinum was a Jesuit university established in Prague that became a stronghold of Catholic education.
Töplitz: Töplitz is a popular spa town in Bohemia, known for its alkalo-saline waters and its lively social scene.
Prince Clari: Prince Clari’s palace in Töplitz is renowned for its beautiful gardens, which are open to the public.
The White Mountain: The White Mountain is a hill overlooking Prague, offering a stunning panoramic view of the city.
The Hradschin: The Hradschin is the site of the Prague Castle, a complex of palaces and churches that have served as the seat of Bohemian power for centuries.
St. Vitus Cathedral: St. Vitus Cathedral, located on the Hradschin, is an unfinished Gothic cathedral that is a prominent landmark of Prague.
Charles IV: Charles IV was a Bohemian king who was a major patron of the arts and architecture. He was responsible for building the Charles Bridge and expanding the city of Prague.
Wallenstein: Wallenstein was a Bohemian nobleman who played a significant role in the Thirty Years’ War. He was a skilled military leader but was ultimately assassinated on the orders of the Habsburgs.
The Jews’ Town: The Jewish Quarter of Prague, known as the Juden Stadt, was a segregated area where Jewish people were forced to live for centuries.
The Old Synagogue: The Old Synagogue of Prague, a 12th-century building, is one of the oldest synagogues in Europe.
The Rath-haus: The Rath-haus (Town Hall) in Prague is a historic building that served as the seat of Prague’s city government.
The Thein Kirche (Tyne Church): The Thein Kirche is a prominent church in Prague where John Huss preached and where the communion was first administered to the laity in both elements.
The Military Hospital: The Military Hospital in Prague was once a Jesuit college and is now used for the care of wounded soldiers.
Spielberg: Spielberg is a hill overlooking Brünn, the capital of Moravia. It is the site of a fortress and a notorious state prison.
The Moravian Brethren: The Moravian Brethren were a group of Hussites who were eventually suppressed by the Habsburgs. They are still active in some areas of Europe, particularly in Hernhut, Saxony.
Vienna: Vienna is the capital of Austria and a major cultural and historical center of Europe.
Presburg: Presburg, now Bratislava, is the capital of Slovakia and a former royal city of Hungary.
The Hungarian Constitution: The Hungarian Constitution, while boasting of being “free”, has been historically characterized by a strong aristocratic system that has often suppressed the rights of the peasantry.
The Palatinate: The Palatinate is a high office in Hungary that acts as a representative of the king and a guardian of the nation’s liberties.
The Danube River: The Danube River is a major waterway that flows through Central Europe. It played a significant role in the history of Austria and Hungary.
The Königsberg: The Königsberg is a circular mound near Presburg where the Hungarian kings were crowned.

Statistics:

Population of Bohemia: The population of Bohemia, excluding the cities, is dense with villages and hamlets close together.
Population of Kamnitz: Kamnitz is an agricultural town with a population of about 2,000.
Population of Hayde: Hayde is a burgh town with a population of 2,000-3,000.
Population of Gabel: Gabel is a town with a population of 3,000-4,000.
Population of Starkenbach: Starkenbach is a town with a population of about 3,000.
Population of Troutenau: Troutenau is a town with a population of approximately 3,000.
Population of Aderspach: Aderspach is a small village with a population of around 1,000.
Population of Shatzlar: Shatzlar is a town with a population of around 4,000.
Population of Kleine Oupa: Kleine Oupa is a hamlet with a population of around 30.
Population of Greiffenberg: Greiffenberg is a town with a population of approximately 2,000.
Population of Golden Traum: Golden Traum is a village with a population of less than 1,000.
Population of Bernstadt: Bernstadt is a frontier town in Saxony with a population of around 3,000.
Population of Hernhut: Hernhut is a missionary settlement with a population of approximately 1,000.
Population of Schlukenau: Schlukenau is a town with a population of roughly 4,000.
Population of Presburg: Presburg (now Bratislava) is the capital of Slovakia and has a population of 30,000-40,000.
Population of Hungary: The population of Hungary is around 10 million, with Hungarians making up around 4 million and Slavonians making up around 6 million.
Cost of wood in Bohemia: A claughter of wood sufficient for a month’s supply for a kitchen stove costs 5 dollars in Bohemia.
Cost of wood in Saxony: The same quantity of wood costs 4 dollars and 4 groschens in Schandau, Saxony.
Cost of a trip in a diligence: A trip from Hirschberg to Hernhut (65 miles) costs 3 dollars.
Cost of a pint of Rhine wine on Schnee-Koppee: A pint of Rhine wine on top of Schnee-Koppee costs 1 dollar.
Cost of two long sticks on Schnee-Koppee: Two long sticks cost 20 groschens.
Cost of dinner at a village beer-house in Golden Traum: Dinner at a village beer-house in Golden Traum costs a few groschens.
Cost of supper and a night’s stay at Lang-Wasser: Supper and a night’s stay at Lang-Wasser costs 2 shillings.
Cost of supper and a night’s stay at Golden Traum: Supper and a night’s stay at Golden Traum cost 1 dollar and 4 groschens.

Terms:

Schloss: A castle or palace, typically owned by nobility.
Bouerman: A tenant farmer who works the land for a fixed payment and often receives the privilege of keeping cows on the manor’s wastelands.
Bouerin-haus: A small farmhouse or cottage occupied by a bouerman.
Graff: A count, typically a nobleman who owns large tracts of land.
Einsiedlerstein: A hermitage or stony dwelling, often a former castle or stronghold.
Torpindas: The Hungarian word for gypsies.
Eilwagen: A German diligence or stagecoach.
Hradschin: The castle hill in Prague, which is the site of the Prague Castle.
Thein Kirche: The Tyne Church in Prague, a historic church where John Huss preached.
Carolinum: The former University of Prague, now a college for law and medicine.
Clementinum: A Jesuit university in Prague, now a seminary for theology and philosophy.
Juden Stadt: The Jewish Quarter of Prague.
Rath-haus: A town hall or city council building.
Compacta Basilicana: A document signed in 1436 that granted certain concessions to the Hussites, including the right to use the cup in the Eucharist.
Utraquists: The Hussites who insisted on the use of the cup in the Eucharist.
Taborites: A radical faction of Hussites who were opposed to any compromise with the Roman Catholic Church.
Königsberg: A circular mound near Presburg where the Hungarian kings were crowned.
Eidelman: A Hungarian noble of lesser rank, often without a title.
Serf: A peasant who is bound to the land and owes service to a lord.
Mout: A toll or tax levied on wagons passing through a barrier in Hungary.
Palatinate: A high office in Hungary that acts as the king’s lieutenant and a guardian of the nation’s liberties.

Examples:

Bohemian Women Carrying Burdens: Gleig notes that women in Bohemia are responsible for carrying all burdens, from firewood to produce. He observes this practice while traveling through the countryside, particularly in villages where women are seen carrying heavy panniers.
The Einsiedlerstein: Gleig spends considerable time exploring the Einsiedlerstein, a former baronial castle used as a hermitage. He describes the castle’s dungeons, armor halls, chapel, and stables, providing a vivid picture of medieval life.
The Battle of Dresden: Gleig describes the battle of Dresden, a significant event in the Napoleonic Wars, focusing on the movements of Napoleon’s troops, the resistance of the allied forces, and the strategies employed by both sides. He also notes the death of General Moreau during this battle.
The Battle of Kulm: Gleig recounts the battle of Kulm, where Napoleon’s forces suffered a major defeat, attributing the victory to the Allies’ superior strategy and the blunder of General Vandamme. He also describes the monuments erected on the battlefield, which commemorate the events of the battle and the sacrifices made by the soldiers.
The Juden Stadt: Gleig’s visit to the Juden Stadt (Jewish Quarter) of Prague is a powerful experience. He describes the cramped living conditions, the poverty, and the unique atmosphere of this segregated area.
The Old Synagogue: Gleig explores the Old Synagogue in Prague, highlighting its unique architecture, its role as a place of worship and study, and the somber atmosphere of this ancient structure.
Töplitz: Gleig spends time at Töplitz, a spa town in Bohemia, describing the lively social scene, the alkalo-saline waters, and the beautiful gardens of Prince Clari’s palace.
The Hradschin: Gleig describes his visit to the Prague Castle (Hradschin), highlighting the cathedral of St. Vitus, the old and new palaces, and the views from the top of the castle hill.
The Carolinum: Gleig explores the Carolinum, a former university in Prague, highlighting its historical significance as a center of Protestant learning and dissent during the Reformation.
The Clementinum: Gleig visits the Clementinum, a Jesuit university in Prague, exploring its history and its role in the suppression of Protestantism. He also discusses the current system of education in Bohemia, emphasizing the heavy surveillance of the police.
Hernhut: Gleig visits Hernhut, a missionary settlement in Saxony, and describes the unique community, religious practices, and lifestyle of the Hernhuters.

Conclusion: Through Gleig’s detailed observations and insightful commentary, we gain a fascinating glimpse into the cultural, social, and political landscape of 19th-century Europe. The author’s firsthand experiences and accounts offer a rich tapestry of historical, cultural, and social details, giving the reader a comprehensive understanding of life in Germany, Bohemia, and Hungary. The journey reveals the beauty and diversity of Europe’s landscapes, explores the impact of the Napoleonic Wars on the region, and sheds light on the complex dynamics of religious and political ideologies, specifically in Bohemia with the history of the Reformation and the influence of the Habsburgs. Ultimately, Gleig’s work stands as a testament to the power of travel as a means of expanding one’s understanding of the world and its diverse cultures.

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