Highways and Byways in Cambridge and Ely Informative Summary

Overview:

The book takes the reader on a comprehensive journey through the historical and architectural landmarks of Cambridge and Ely, focusing on the unique charm and lesser-known aspects of these cities.

The author describes the evolution of Cambridge from its Roman beginnings as Camboritum, highlighting its significance as a strategic point along the River Cam. He then dives into the establishment of the University, the emergence of the Collegiate system, and the dynamic rivalry between Town and Gown. The book delves into the unique features and histories of each Cambridge College, including its founders, notable alumni, and architectural details.

The journey continues to Ely, exploring the fascinating history of the Island and Isle. The author recounts the foundation of the Abbey by St. Etheldreda, its subsequent destruction and restoration, and the events leading to its transformation into a cathedral. A detailed account of Ely Cathedral’s architectural history follows, highlighting the contributions of various bishops and architects, including the dramatic fall of the central tower and its reconstruction by Alan of Walsingham.

Key Findings:

Cambridge and Ely’s unique charm lies in their blend of architectural styles, spanning from Roman and Saxon to Perpendicular and Renaissance.
The development of the University of Cambridge was influenced by migrations of students from Oxford, Paris, and other centers of learning.
The Collegiate system, unique to Oxford and Cambridge, provided a distinctive learning environment, fostering close-knit communities and nurturing academic excellence.
Ely’s history is deeply intertwined with the struggles of the early English against the Danes and the later Norman invasion.
The draining of the Fens was a long and arduous process, marked by both progress and setbacks, ultimately transforming the landscape and economy of the region.

Learning:

The evolution of Cambridge and Ely: The reader will gain insights into the historical and cultural development of these cities, from their ancient beginnings to their transformation into renowned centers of learning and religion.
The Collegiate system: The book provides a unique look into the origins and intricacies of the Collegiate system, a key feature of both Oxford and Cambridge universities.
The architecture of Cambridge and Ely: Readers will appreciate the architectural beauty and historical significance of the various colleges and churches, understanding their construction and the styles that influenced them.
The historical context of the Fenland: The text sheds light on the importance of the Fens as a refuge for Britons, a strategic battleground, and a challenging landscape to reclaim.
The draining of the Fens: This chapter will give the reader an understanding of the complex historical and engineering challenges involved in reclaiming this vast and historically important region.

Historical Context:

The text provides a fascinating backdrop to the development of Cambridge and Ely, situating them within the broader context of British history.

Roman Britain: The author explores the presence of Roman settlements in the region, including Camboritum and the Car Dyke.
Anglo-Saxon England: The book delves into the arrival of the Anglo-Saxons, the formation of the counties of Cambridge and Ely, and the impact of the Danish invasions.
Norman Conquest: The story of the Norman invasion, Hereward the Wake’s resistance, and the eventual establishment of the Norman rule is a central theme.
Medieval England: The text explores the flourishing of monasticism, the development of the University of Cambridge, and the rise of the Collegiate system.
The Reformation: The book examines the impact of the Reformation on the monasteries, universities, and religious life of the region.

Facts:

Camboritum: The Roman settlement near Cambridge, possibly derived from the British Cam Rhydd, meaning “ford of the Cam.”
Granta-ceaster: The Anglo-Saxon name for Cambridge, meaning “the chester (ruined Roman city) upon the Granta.”
“Hobson’s Choice”: The phrase originated from Thomas Hobson, a Cambridge carrier who famously offered his customers “This or none” when choosing horses.
Hobson’s Conduit: The system of bringing water to Cambridge from springs near Great Shelford, initiated by Dr. Andrew Perne and likely aided by Thomas Hobson.
St. Benet’s Church: The oldest church in Cambridge, its Saxon tower potentially built by English inhabitants dispossessed by the Danes.
The King’s Ditch: The defensive ditch surrounding Cambridge, possibly built by the Danes and later expanded by King John and Henry the Third.
The Guilds: Mediæval organizations that provided benefits to their members, including the Guild of St. Mary and the Guild of Corpus Christi, which founded Corpus Christi College.
The “Querela Cantabrigiensis”: A Royalist publication from the Civil War, detailing the hardships faced by Cambridge students due to the presence of Parliamentary troops.
The “Poison Cup”: A glass tankard housed in Clare College, fitted with a crystal that was believed to change color in the presence of poison.
The Fleam Dyke and Devil’s Dyke: Prehistoric earthworks in Cambridgeshire, constructed to defend against invaders.
Newmarket Heath: The site of the first horse races in England, established during the reign of Charles the Second.
The “Song of Maldon”: A famous poem that recounts the heroic stand of Brithnoth, Alderman of East Anglia, against a Danish invasion, referencing Ely’s hospitality to Brithnoth’s men.
Assandun: The site of a decisive battle between Edmund Ironside and Canute in 1016, possibly located near Bartlow.
Hereward the Wake: A legendary figure who led resistance against the Normans, using the Isle of Ely as a refuge.
The “Tabula Eliensis”: A painting depicting Norman knights and monks at Ely during the time of William the Conqueror, showcasing their unexpected cooperation.
The Octagon at Ely Cathedral: A unique octagonal tower, designed by Alan of Walsingham after the fall of the original central tower, showcasing the genius of Decorated architecture.
Prior Crauden’s Chapel: A gem of Decorated architecture, built by Prior John of Crauden for his own private worship, a testament to his piety.
The “Wilderness” (St. John’s College): The Fellows’ Garden at St. John’s College, noted for its abundance of spring flowers, a rarity in Cambridgeshire.
The “Poison Cup” (Clare College): A glass tankard housed in Clare College, fitted with a crystal that was believed to change color in the presence of poison.
Stourbridge Fair: A once-renowned fair held near Cambridge, described by Carter as the largest in Europe, and serving as the inspiration for Bunyan’s “Vanity Fair.”
The Black Death: This epidemic, which decimated the population of England in the mid-14th century, had a profound impact on the social and economic landscape of Cambridgeshire.
Akeman Street: A Roman road that passed through Cambridgeshire, connecting Wells on the Wash with Aust on the Severn.
The War Ditches: A prehistoric earthwork near Cherry Hinton, evidence of a past massacre, as revealed by excavations.
St. Pandiana: A Scottish princess who sought refuge at Eltisley, where a well still bears her name.
St. Neot’s: The town, founded by Ethelfleda, “the Lady of the Mercians,” was named after St. Neotus, the brother and spiritual mentor of King Alfred.
The “Song of Maldon”: A famous poem that recounts the heroic stand of Brithnoth, Alderman of East Anglia, against a Danish invasion, referencing Ely’s hospitality to Brithnoth’s men.
The Roslyn Pit: A geological site near Ely, known for the unusual presence of chalk above boulder clay, potentially caused by ice action.
The Bedford Rivers: The Old and New Bedford Rivers, constructed in the 17th century, redirected the waters of the Ouse to improve fenland drainage.
Denver Sluice: The massive sluice that controls the flow of water into the Wash, a crucial element of the fenland drainage system.
The “Parallax” experiment: A scientific test conducted on the New Bedford River to prove the sphericity of the Earth, which debunked a gentleman’s theory about a flat Earth.
The “Fairy Cart”: A local legend associated with Shingay, referring to the practice of transporting the deceased by night for burial at the Priory of the Knights Hospitallers.
The “Duties” inscription at Ely Palace: A unique inscription, likely Goodrich’s original draft for the “Duties” later expanded into the Catechism.
The “Majestas” crucifix: An early type of crucifix depicting Christ in a royal robe and helm, a predecessor to the later “realistic” crucifix.
Oliver Cromwell’s residence at Ely: Cromwell and his family resided in the tithe house at Ely for ten years. He drilled his troops on St. Mary’s Green and later became Governor of the Isle of Ely.
The “College” (Ely): The term “College” is still used to refer to the Cathedral precincts at Ely, a reminder of the College of Priests founded by Alfred the Great.
The “Gallery” (Ely): The street leading to the cathedral, named after the covered gallery that once connected the Cathedral and the Palace.
The “Gallery” (Ely Palace): The long gallery added to the palace by Bishop Goodrich, featuring his original inscription of the “Duties” towards God and neighbor.

Statistics:

400 houses in Cambridge (Domesday Book, 1086).
400 houses in Cambridge (under Edward the Confessor, prior to the Norman Conquest).
80 houses destroyed in Cambridge by William the Conqueror.
53 houses destroyed in Cambridge by William the Conqueror.
27 houses in Cambridge pulled down for the new castle.
400 houses in Cambridge (in the reign of Edward the Confessor).
2,000 souls in Cambridge (after the Norman Conquest).
300 volumes in the University Library (in its earliest form, prior to the Reformation).
30,000 volumes gifted to the University Library by George the First.
70 monks at Ely Abbey (prior to the dissolution).
28 monks at Ely Abbey (after the Black Death).
36 monks at Ely Abbey (in 1532).
£70 per annum income of the Priory of St. Radegund (1455, equivalent to £1,200 today).
£30 per annum income of the Priory of St. Radegund (1481).
£187 12s. 8d. gross income of Shingay Priory (1332, equivalent to £3,500 today).
£71 per annum income of Shingay Priory from land.
£4 13s. 4d. per annum income of Shingay Priory from mills and houses.
£38 10s. 0d. per annum income of Shingay Priory from villain labor.
£66 13s. 4d. per annum income of Shingay Priory from the Rectories of Wendy and Sawston.
£3 per week living expenses of six inmates at Shingay Priory (equivalent to £90 today).
£12 per annum wages for a male servant at Shingay Priory (equivalent to £360 today).
£25 per annum allowance for clothing and pocket money for each knight at Shingay Priory (equivalent to £750 today).
2,450 eggs consumed per week at Ely Abbey.
£30,000 per annum income of the See of Ely (in the mid-13th century).
£20,000 fine imposed on the monks of Ely by William the Conqueror.
700 marks of silver fine imposed on the monks of Ely by William the Conqueror (equivalent to £17,500 today).
300 tons per acre average yield of coprolites.
£3 per ton value of coprolites.
£150 per acre paid by merchants for the right to dig coprolites.
40s. per week wage for a “fossil-digger”.
£700 per annum income of Whittlesea Church (prior to its division in the 19th century).
£1,200 per annum income of Bassingbourn Rectory (1410).
£80 per annum paid for two Protestant preachers in Wisbech Castle.
£8 per annum pension paid to three Ely monks (equivalent to £80 today).
209 vessels clearing from Wisbech harbor (in 1909).
36,000 tons total tonnage of vessels clearing from Wisbech harbor (in 1909).
3,000 tons maximum tonnage of vessels entering Wisbech harbor.
12 sea-fishing boats registered at Wisbech.
3,000 couples of wild fowl sent from a single decoy at Ely to London (in 1750).
£500 per year rent for a single decoy at Ely (in 1750).
£2,000,000 invested by the Dukes of Bedford on their Thorney estate (during the 19th century).
290 feet original length of Thorney Abbey Church.
117 feet of Thorney Abbey Church remaining after Henry VIII’s demolitions.
120 acres in one “hide” of land.
450 inhabitants at Caxton (in 1910).
300 tons per acre average yield of coprolites.
£3 per ton value of coprolites.
£150 per acre paid by merchants for the right to dig coprolites.
40s. per week wage for a “fossil-digger”.
£700 per annum income of Whittlesea Church (prior to its division in the 19th century).
£1,200 per annum income of Bassingbourn Rectory (1410).
£80 per annum paid for two Protestant preachers in Wisbech Castle.
£8 per annum pension paid to three Ely monks (equivalent to £80 today).
209 vessels clearing from Wisbech harbor (in 1909).
36,000 tons total tonnage of vessels clearing from Wisbech harbor (in 1909).
3,000 tons maximum tonnage of vessels entering Wisbech harbor.
12 sea-fishing boats registered at Wisbech.
3,000 couples of wild fowl sent from a single decoy at Ely to London (in 1750).
£500 per year rent for a single decoy at Ely (in 1750).
£2,000,000 invested by the Dukes of Bedford on their Thorney estate (during the 19th century).
290 feet original length of Thorney Abbey Church.
117 feet of Thorney Abbey Church remaining after Henry VIII’s demolitions.
120 acres in one “hide” of land.
450 inhabitants at Caxton (in 1910).
20 students residing at Ely Theological College.
68 feet length of each oak beam in the Ely Lantern.
£26 8s. money given to each monk upon leaving Ely Abbey (equivalent to £15 today).
£80 per year pension for a “good choir man” (equivalent to £80 today).
£50 per year pension for a monk (equivalent to £500 today).

Terms:

“Backs”: The name for the area of gardens and river walks behind the Cambridge colleges.
“Burgh”: An Anglo-Saxon term for a fortified town or settlement.
“Chester”: An Anglicised form of the Latin “castra,” meaning a camp or Roman settlement.
“Clunch”: A type of hardened chalk used for building in Cambridgeshire.
“Commons”: A daily ration of bread and butter provided to students in residence at Cambridge colleges.
“Coprolites”: Organic remains, mainly phosphate of lime, found in the greensand of Cambridgeshire, once used as fertilizer.
“Decoy”: A system of traps used to catch wild fowl, formerly common in the Fens.
“Fleam Dyke”: A prehistoric earthwork running from the Cam to Balsham, a defensive line against invaders.
“Hithe”: An Anglo-Saxon word for a landing place or quay.
“Hostel”: A lodging house for students in medieval Cambridge, often forming a precursor to colleges.
“Leam”: A drainage channel, particularly in the Fens.
“Lierne”: A type of vaulting that creates a network of ribs, often used in medieval architecture.
“Lodes”: Artificial channels cut through the Fenland, providing navigation routes.
“Palimpsest”: A document where earlier writing has been scraped off to make room for new text, sometimes visible beneath the later text.
“Parclose”: A partition, often with elaborate wood carving, used to create enclosed pews or confessionals in churches.
“Parvis”: A chamber or gallery above a church porch, often used for prayer or as a space for musicians.
“Pellice”: A monk’s cassock, lined with wool.
“Preceptory”: A branch house of a religious order, such as those established by the Knights Hospitallers.
“Reredos”: An ornamental screen or wall behind an altar, often featuring sculptures or paintings.
“Sanctus Bell”: A small bell rung during certain parts of the Mass, notably the “Ter Sanctus” and the consecration of the Host.
“Skegman”: A term for the lowest quality of beer at Ely Abbey.
“Slype”: A passageway connecting the cloisters with the main building of an abbey or monastery.
“Stile”: A means of crossing over a fence or wall.
“Triforium”: A gallery in a church, above the arcade and below the clerestory, often with windows.
“Villa”: A Roman country house, often with luxurious features, such as a hypocaust (a system for heating the house using hot air).
“Villenage”: The system of serfdom in medieval England, where peasants were bound to work for their lord in exchange for the use of land.
“Wilderness”: A term used in Cambridge to describe a garden or wooded area, often with secluded walkways.
“Withes”: Willow shoots used to make baskets.
“Wreck”: A term used to describe a church or building that has been damaged or destroyed.
“Yeoman”: A freeholder, often a farmer, in medieval England.

Examples:

The “Poison Cup” (Clare College): A crystal goblet mounted in a silver tankard, believed to change color if poison was poured into it.
The Devil’s Dyke and Fleam Dyke: These prehistoric earthworks showcase the ingenuity of ancient defenses, highlighting the importance of protecting the open grassland between the Fens and the forest.
The “Song of Maldon”: This epic poem provides a vivid account of the valor of Brithnoth, Alderman of East Anglia, and his resistance against a Danish invasion, underscoring the role of Ely in hosting Brithnoth’s troops.
The story of the “Fairy Cart” at Shingay: This local legend, reflecting the role of the Hospitallers in providing sanctuary during times of conflict, depicts the practice of transporting the deceased to Shingay for burial.
Oliver Cromwell’s time in Ely: Cromwell’s residence in the tithe house at Ely, his role as Governor of the Isle, and his contentious interactions with Bishop Wren showcase the political and religious turmoil of the time.
The “Parallax” experiment on the New Bedford River: This scientific test debunked a gentleman’s theory about a flat Earth, emphasizing the importance of scientific inquiry in the region.
The “Tabula Eliensis”: This medieval painting provides a unique snapshot of the coexistence of Norman knights and monks at Ely, reflecting the changing power dynamics after the Conquest.
The destruction of Crowland Abbey by the Danes: The story of Crowland’s destruction, a vivid account of the brutality of the Danish raids, highlights the resilience of the Benedictine community and their dedication to preserving their faith.
The story of King John and the Well Stream: This dramatic account of the loss of John’s baggage train in the Wash highlights the dangers of navigating the unpredictable tides and underscores the importance of local knowledge in the region.
The story of Bishop Wren’s imprisonment: The imprisonment of Bishop Wren for promoting reverent ceremonial in public worship showcases the clash between High Church and Puritan ideals during the Civil War.

Conclusion:

“Highways and Byways in Cambridge and Ely” offers a captivating journey through the history, architecture, and landscape of these unique regions. The author’s intimate knowledge and vivid storytelling bring to life the people, events, and struggles that shaped these cities.

Key takeaways for the reader:

A profound appreciation for the historical depth of Cambridge and Ely: The book unveils a tapestry of ancient civilizations, from the Romans and Saxons to the Normans and the Victorians, showcasing their diverse contributions.
An understanding of the unique blend of architectural styles: From Norman to Perpendicular, the reader will gain a deeper understanding of the evolution of architectural styles in England, particularly as they are exemplified in Cambridge colleges and Ely Cathedral.
An insight into the social, political, and religious dynamics of the past: The book vividly portrays the struggles between the English and Danes, the impact of the Norman Conquest, and the turbulent period of the Reformation.
A sense of wonder for the human capacity for resilience and innovation: The stories of the draining of the Fens, the reconstruction of Ely Cathedral after the collapse of its tower, and the perseverance of the monastic orders amidst hardship provide inspiring examples of human determination and ingenuity.

This insightful guide will leave readers with a renewed appreciation for the historical significance, architectural beauty, and enduring charm of Cambridge and Ely.

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