Incidents of Travel in Greece, Turkey, Russia, and Poland, Vol. 1 (of 2) Informative Summary

Overview:

John L. Stephens, an American author and traveler, embarked on a journey through Greece, Turkey, and Russia in 1835, documenting his experiences and observations in “Incidents of Travel.” His travels were characterized by adventurous encounters, cultural immersion, and reflections on the rich history and current state of the regions he visited.

The first volume covers Stephens’ journey from the Ionian Islands to Constantinople, starting with his unexpected landing in Missilonghi, a site steeped in Greek revolutionary history and the final resting place of Lord Byron. Stephens recounts meeting the widow and daughters of the legendary Suliote chief Marco Bozzaris, a poignant encounter that highlights the enduring memory of Greek heroism and the lingering impact of the revolution.

Key Findings:

Greece’s fragile state: Despite achieving independence, Greece faces a turbulent time marked by poverty, political instability, and the lingering presence of foreign influences.
American sentiment towards Greece: Stephens observes a strong sense of gratitude and admiration for American aid towards Greece during its revolutionary struggle.
The enduring impact of the Greek Revolution: Stephens encounters the lasting effects of the revolution, especially in Missilonghi, with its ruined houses and the remnants of a once-thriving community.
The complexities of the Ottoman Empire: Stephens’ journey through Turkey reveals the empire’s tumultuous transition, with internal unrest, European influences, and the persistence of traditional customs.
The horrors of slavery: The slave market in Constantinople exposes the grim realities of human trafficking, highlighting the ongoing exploitation of women and children.

Learning:

Greece’s post-revolutionary struggles: The reader learns about the ongoing challenges faced by Greece in rebuilding its infrastructure, economy, and social fabric after the revolution.
The power of historical sites: Visiting sites like Missilonghi, the tomb of Marco Bozzaris, and the Acropolis of Corinth offers a visceral understanding of Greece’s history, evoking a sense of awe and reflection.
The role of the American missionary school: Stephens showcases the significant impact of the American missionary school in Athens, highlighting its role in promoting education and cultural exchange.
The complexities of Ottoman society: The reader encounters the clash between tradition and modernization, evidenced by the sultan’s attempts at reform, the lingering presence of the slave trade, and the evolving role of European influence.

Historical Context:

The text is set in the immediate aftermath of the Greek Revolution (1821-1829), a period of political and social upheaval. Greece, newly independent from the Ottoman Empire, is grappling with rebuilding its nation and establishing a stable government. The influence of the Great Powers (England, France, and Russia) and the ongoing presence of European adventurers are critical factors shaping the nation’s future.

Facts:

Lord Byron’s death in Missilonghi: Byron, a prominent figure in the Greek Revolution, died in Missilonghi in 1824. His body was transported to England and interred in the family sepulchre.
Marco Bozzaris’ heroic defense of Missilonghi: The Suliote chief led a valiant defense of Missilonghi against the combined forces of the Turks and Egyptians, ultimately dying in battle.
The “Maid of Athens” married a Scotsman: Theresa Makri, immortalized as the “Maid of Athens” by Lord Byron, married George Black, a Scotsman.
The American Missionary School in Athens: Established in 1831 by American missionaries, the school played a significant role in promoting education and cultural exchange in Greece.
The Acropolis of Corinth: The Acropolis was a fortified citadel used as a refuge for the Corinthians during times of war and invasion.
The Isthmian Games: These ancient games, held on the Isthmus of Corinth, were a significant event in Greek history and culture.
The destruction of Scio: The Turkish massacre on the island of Scio in 1822 resulted in the deaths of tens of thousands of Greeks and left the island in ruins.
The rise of Odessa: Odessa, founded in the late 18th century, rapidly became a major port city and a center for commerce and trade in Southern Russia.
The Russian Lazaretto: The lazaretto, a quarantine station, was established to prevent the spread of infectious diseases, particularly the plague.
The Sultan Mahmoud’s reforms: The Sultan Mahmoud II implemented reforms to modernize the Ottoman Empire, including the destruction of the Janissaries, the introduction of European military tactics, and the adoption of European customs.
The Sultan’s “shadow of God” image: The Sultan often referred to himself as the “shadow of God upon earth,” emphasizing his authority and divine right to rule.
The Seven Towers: The Seven Towers in Constantinople served as a prison for political prisoners and a place of execution, symbolizing the Ottoman state’s ruthlessness.
The launch of the great ship: Mr. Rhodes, an American shipbuilder in Constantinople, oversaw the launch of a large ship for the Ottoman navy, a testament to American shipbuilding prowess.
The destruction of the Janissaries: Sultan Mahmoud II ordered the massacre of the Janissaries in 1826, eliminating a powerful force that had threatened his authority.
The Mosque of St. Sophia: The former Hagia Sophia, a magnificent Christian church, was converted into a mosque in 1453 after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople.
The Sultan’s Palace at Sweet Waters: The Sultan maintained a grand palace at Sweet Waters, a picturesque location outside of Constantinople.
Commodore Porter as the first American envoy to the Ottoman Empire: Commodore David Porter served as the first American chargé d’affaires to the Ottoman Empire.
The “Christian dog” label: The Turks often referred to Christians as “dogs,” highlighting the animosity and prejudice towards Christianity.
The “well-defended city” of Constantinople: Constantinople’s strong fortifications earned it the title of the “well-defended city” due to its robust walls and military prowess.
The bowstring: The bowstring was a common method of execution employed by the Ottoman Empire, symbolizing the sultan’s absolute power and the ruthlessness of the state.
The slave-market in Constantinople: Slaves, primarily women and children from the Caucasus and Africa, were bought and sold in a market in Constantinople, a testament to the enduring practice of slavery in the Ottoman Empire.
The “three miseries of the Levant”: plague, fire, and the dragoman: These dangers were common concerns for travelers in the Levant.
The importance of the “dragoman” in the Levant: Dragomans, multilingual interpreters, were essential for navigating the cultural and linguistic complexities of the region.

Statistics:

Over 100,000 Turks in the marketplace: During the launch of the great ship, thousands of Turks gathered in the marketplace to observe the event.
Over 60,000 inhabitants in Odessa: Odessa, a rapidly growing city, had a population of around 60,000 inhabitants.
A population of over a million in Constantinople: Constantinople, the Ottoman capital, had a population of over one million.
30,000 Janissaries killed: During the suppression of the Janissaries, an estimated 30,000 were killed.
60,000 murdered in the Scio massacre: The Turkish massacre on the island of Scio resulted in the deaths of an estimated 60,000 Greeks.
6,000 Turkish soldiers killed in a mountain pass: During a Greek ambush in a mountain pass, an estimated 6,000 Turkish soldiers were killed.
110,000 inhabitants in Scio: The island of Scio had a population of 110,000 before the Turkish massacre.
$250 for a slave: The price of a Circassian slave girl in the Constantinople slave market was 250 dollars.
20-30 white women in the slave market: Stephens observed an estimated 20-30 white women being sold in the Constantinople slave market.
Over 10,000 Jews in Smyrna: The Jewish quarter of Smyrna housed over 10,000 Jews.
Less than 2 million Armenians left: The Armenian population had dwindled to less than 2 million due to centuries of persecution and displacement.
A thousand lamps in the Mosque of Sultan Suliman: The mosque featured an array of over a thousand lamps suspended from the ceiling.
A salary of $1,500 per year for a consul: Stephens argues that paying American consuls a salary of $1,500 per year would elevate the position and attract qualified candidates.

Terms:

Lazaretto: A quarantine station, typically located near a port, used to isolate individuals suspected of carrying contagious diseases.
Janissaries: A powerful military force in the Ottoman Empire, known for their fierceness and loyalty to the Sultan.
Dragoman: A multilingual interpreter, especially one employed by travelers or diplomats in the Ottoman Empire.
Seraskier Pacha: The Ottoman Minister of War.
Reis Effendi: The Ottoman Minister of Foreign Affairs.
Grand Vizier: The Ottoman Prime Minister.
Eparchos: A local governor in Greece.
Knickerbockers: A term used by Stephens to refer to older Armenian men, drawing a comparison to the Dutch community in New York.
Pyroscaphe: A Russian word for a steamboat.
Drosky: A horse-drawn carriage commonly used in Russia.
Verst: A Russian unit of measurement, approximately equal to 0.66 miles.

Examples:

Meeting the widow and daughters of Marco Bozzaris: Stephens’ encounter with the Bozzaris family in Missilonghi provides a personal and emotional glimpse into the lingering effects of the Greek revolution.
The dreary funeral in Athens: The burial of an English or American sailor’s Greek wife highlights the stark reality of poverty and hardship in Athens, contrasting with the grandeur of the city’s historical sites.
The encounter with a wolf at Ephesus: The wolf, emerging from the ruins of Ephesus, adds a symbolic dimension to the site’s desolation and historical significance.
The Turkish coffee house in Foggi: The scene in the coffee house, with its dozing Turks and the muezzin’s call to prayer, offers a glimpse into Ottoman daily life.
The Armenian quarter in Smyrna: The bustling Armenian quarter, with its vibrant streets and welcoming homes, showcases the Armenian community’s rich culture and resilience.
The slave market in Constantinople: The slave market vividly illustrates the horrors of the slave trade, with the plight of young women and children sold into servitude.
The launch of the great ship in Constantinople: The launching of the ship, a project led by the American shipbuilder Mr. Rhodes, showcases American engineering skill and entrepreneurial spirit in a foreign land.
The Mosque of St. Sophia: Visiting the Mosque of St. Sophia, a former Christian church, offers a unique perspective on the Ottoman Empire’s historical legacy.
The Armenian burying ground in Constantinople: The Armenian burying ground, with its serene atmosphere and vibrant social life, highlights the diverse cultures and religious practices of Constantinople.

Conclusion:

John L. Stephens’ “Incidents of Travel” offers a fascinating glimpse into the diverse landscapes and cultures of Greece, Turkey, and Russia in the 1830s. His journey highlights the profound impact of the Greek Revolution, the complexities of the Ottoman Empire, and the rapid modernization of Russia. From the poignant encounter with the family of a Greek hero to the grandeur of Constantinople and the vibrant streets of Odessa, Stephens provides a captivating account of his travels, revealing the enduring legacy of ancient civilizations, the struggles of emerging nations, and the transformative power of the modern world.

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