Incidents of Travel in Greece, Turkey, Russia, and Poland, Vol. 2 (of 2) Informative Summary

Overview: 

The second volume of John L. Stephens’ “Incidents of Travel” chronicles his journey through Russia and Poland in 1838. Stephens vividly describes the contrasts between the wild steppes and the opulent cities, highlighting the extravagance of palaces like the Kremlin in Moscow and the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg. He delves into the complexities of Russian society, exposing the harsh realities of serfdom and the widespread corruption within the government.

Stephens’ journey takes him through the heart of the Russian empire, where he encounters a diverse range of people: devout pilgrims, cunning Jews, and proud nobles. He describes the unique customs and traditions of the Russian people, including their devotion to religion, their fondness for tea, and their elaborate celebrations. His observations offer a glimpse into the social and political landscape of Russia, revealing a society struggling between tradition and modernity.

Key Findings:

• The author finds that Russian society is steeped in religious devotion and superstition. He witnesses pilgrimages to Kiev, the “Jerusalem of the North,” and observes the strict adherence to religious rituals even in everyday life.
• Despite the outward splendor of cities like Moscow and St. Petersburg, Stephens exposes the brutal realities of serfdom in Russia. He describes the abject poverty and misery of the serfs, who are treated like property by their masters.
• The author encounters widespread corruption within the Russian government, particularly among the postmasters, who routinely exploit travelers.
• Stephens vividly recounts the disastrous retreat of Napoleon’s army from Moscow, emphasizing the horrors of the Berezina River crossing.
• The journey through Poland reveals the enduring spirit of a people oppressed by Russia. Stephens encounters Polish exiles who have lost their homes and families but retain their national pride.

Learning:

• Religion in Russia: The Russian Orthodox Church holds significant influence over society, shaping the values and practices of everyday life. The author highlights the rituals of the Orthodox Church and the widespread reverence for saints and icons.
  • The church of St. Sophia in Kiev is a prime example of Byzantine architecture and its enduring influence on the region.
  • The Petcherskoi monastery is a sacred site for pilgrims, where the bodies of Russian saints are kept as relics. The practice of entombment, known as “holy lives,” demonstrates the deep devotion and faith of Russian people.
• Serfdom in Russia: The institution of serfdom was a defining feature of Russian society, subjecting millions of people to brutal conditions and limiting their opportunities. The author exposes the stark contrasts between the opulence of the nobility and the abject poverty of the serfs.
  • The chateau and grounds of a seigneur in Russia, where a large church stands next to the “miserable and filthy habitations of his slaves,” exemplifies the stark contrast in living standards between the nobility and the serfs.
  • The serfs’ devotion to the Tsar, despite being oppressed by their immediate masters, shows a complex relationship between the serfs and the ruling class.
  • The story of the old monk, wealthy but still a slave due to his inability to pay for his freedom, showcases the cruel realities of serfdom.
• The Russian Government: The author describes the Russian government as a despotic regime with widespread corruption. He highlights the arbitrary power of officials, particularly the postmasters, who often defy the Emperor’s orders.
  • The author’s encounters with corrupt postmasters, who demand bribes and delay his travel, demonstrate the pervasive nature of corruption within the Russian system.
  • The “padoroshni,” the Emperor’s order for horses, holds little weight when facing the greed of postmasters. This reflects the disconnect between the Emperor’s policies and the realities faced by the people.
• The Burning of Moscow: The author recounts the historical significance of the burning of Moscow during Napoleon’s invasion, emphasizing the courage and patriotism of the Russian people.
  • The destruction of Moscow, a city held sacred by the Russian people, was an act of defiance against Napoleon’s invading army, demonstrating the deep patriotism of the Russian people.
• The Polish Revolution: Stephens vividly describes the Polish uprising against Russian oppression in 1830, showcasing the bravery and resilience of the Polish people in the face of overwhelming odds. He also reveals the deep-seated hatred between the Poles and Russians, a legacy of centuries of conflict.
  • The battle of Grokow, where the Polish army, vastly outnumbered by the Russian forces, fought bravely against an oppressive regime, showcases the unwavering spirit of the Polish people.
  • The story of the Polish exiles, driven from their homes and facing uncertain futures, highlights the devastating impact of Russian oppression on the Polish people.

Historical Context: This travelogue was written in 1838, amidst a period of significant political and social change across Europe. The Russian Empire, under the rule of Tsar Nicholas I, was seeking to expand its influence and consolidate its power. The Polish uprising of 1830 had been brutally suppressed, leading to further oppression and resentment of the Russian regime.

Facts:

• The steppes of Russia are a vast plain stretching from northern Germany to the Ural Mountains.
• The Russian Cossacks are a warlike tribe living under a strict military system.
• The Russian Jews were not allowed to enter the territory of old Russia.
• The Russian serfs were obliged to work for their masters for three days a week and could not be sold separately from the land.
• The Russian government used serfdom as a source of manpower for its army.
• The burning of Moscow was a significant event in the history of the Russian Empire, demonstrating the strong patriotic spirit of the Russian people.
• Poland was a powerful monarchy in Europe for two centuries.
• The Polish people were heavily oppressed by Russia after the partitioning of Poland.
• The battle of Grokow was the greatest battle in Europe since Waterloo.
• The Polish revolution of 1830 was a valiant but ultimately unsuccessful effort to gain independence from Russia.
• The Polish people, even under Russian rule, held strong national pride and a deep-seated hatred for Russia.
• The Russian Empire included a diverse population of various religious and ethnic groups, including Roman Catholics, Armenians, Protestants, Jews, Mohammedans, and pagans.
• The religion of Russia was initially idolatry until the 10th century when Olga, the widow of Igor, was baptized and introduced Christianity.
• The Russian Orthodox Church, while deriving from Constantinople, differed from the Catholic Church in its beliefs regarding the procession of the Holy Ghost.
• The Jews in Poland were a distinct people, separated from their Christian neighbors, and subjected to discrimination and limitations.
• Casimir the Great is known as the “King of the Peasants” for his efforts to improve the lives of the peasantry in Poland.
• The Polish throne was elective, sometimes resulting in tumultuous and even violent elections.
• The great Polish king John Sobieski, despite his military victories, was a troubled man, whose domestic life was dominated by intrigue and conflict.
• The salt mines at Wielitska, Poland, are the largest excavations in Europe, extending for miles underground.

Statistics:

• The author traveled nearly 2,000 miles through Russia and Poland.
• The Cossacks of the Bog number between 6,000 and 7,000.
• One sixth of the whole peasantry of Russia, amounting to 6 or 7 million, belong to the crown.
• The largest piece of platinum in existence, weighing 10 pounds, is housed in the Hotel des Mines in St. Petersburg.
• The Winter Palace in St. Petersburg was built by more than 80,000 people.
• The Hermitage in St. Petersburg houses a collection of more than 1,300 paintings.
• The Emperor of Russia had a standing army of 600,000 soldiers.
• The Russian army included 60,000 soldiers who followed the emperor.
• The Russian army included 10,000 Kirguish soldiers who served as a ceremonial guard for the imperial family.
• The Grand Duke Michael’s palace in St. Petersburg cost more than 17 million rubles.
• The salt mines at Wielitska are more than 600 years old.
• The total length of the passages in the salt mines is more than 300 miles.
• The salt mines employ more than 2,000 people.
• The city of Cracow, Poland, has a population of about 30,000 people.

Terms:

• Podoroshni: An imperial order that authorizes travelers to use the char de poste (post carriage) in Russia.
• Drosky: A two-horse carriage, a popular form of transportation in Russia and Poland.
• Kibirka: A long, round-bottomed wagon on four wheels, traditionally used in Russia.
• Troika: A three-horse carriage, a popular form of transportation in Russia.
• Iconostasis: The screen that separates the sanctuary from the body of the church in Eastern Orthodox churches.
• Salle des Nobles: A grand ballroom in Moscow, belonging to a club of nobility.
• Char de Poste: A light post carriage used in Russia and Poland.
• Zopa: A large temporary structure of wood used for the senate during the election of Polish kings.
• Kola: A circular enclosure used by the nuncios during the election of Polish kings.
• Fiacre: A horse-drawn carriage, a common form of transportation in Europe.
• Kukiernia: A type of cafe or confectioner’s shop in Poland and Russia.

Examples:

• The author’s encounter with Monsieur Henri: This incident illustrates the difficulties of finding a reliable servant in Russia, and the cultural misunderstandings that can arise in a foreign land.
• The burning of Moscow: This is a major historical event that showcases the ferocity and dedication of the Russian people in resisting Napoleon’s invasion.
• The Polish revolution of 1830: This event demonstrates the courage and resilience of the Polish people in fighting against Russian oppression.
• The story of the old monk who was wealthy but still a slave: This illustrates the limitations of serfdom and the hardship it imposed on millions of people in Russia.
• The story of the Russian soldier who believed Americans eat people: This demonstrates the ignorance and prejudice that can exist between different cultures.
• The story of the roofer who repaired the angel on the spire of the citadel: This highlights the bravery and skill of ordinary people in Russia.
• The story of the Polish lady who mourned for her dead family: This demonstrates the personal cost of Russian oppression on the Polish people.
• The story of the Polish officer who fought in the revolution and was left crippled: This highlights the devastating impact of war on individuals and families.
• The story of the Polish officer who offered to share his carriage with the author: This demonstrates the hospitality and generosity of the Polish people.
• The story of the German wagoner who provided the author with food: This illustrates the kindness of strangers and the unexpected support that can be found on the road.

Conclusion: John L. Stephens’ “Incidents of Travel” provides a fascinating glimpse into Russia and Poland in the 1830s. His journey highlights the contrasts between the splendor of the cities and the harsh realities of serfdom. He exposes the corruption and tyranny of the Russian government and the resilience of the Polish people in the face of oppression. The author’s observations on religion, customs, and society offer valuable insight into the historical context of the time. Through his encounters with diverse individuals, from devout pilgrims to cunning Jews to proud nobles, Stephens paints a vivid portrait of a world in transition, grappling with the complexities of political power, social change, and individual identity.

Learn more