Journals of Two Expeditions into the Interior of New South Wales Informative Summary

Overview:

John Oxley’s journals document two expeditions into the interior of New South Wales, undertaken in 1817-18, under the auspices of Governor Lachlan Macquarie. The first expedition aimed to trace the course of the Lachlan River, hoping to find a navigable route to the sea. However, Oxley discovered the river’s surprising termination in a vast, uninhabitable inland marsh. Disappointed but undeterred, he returned to Bathurst and set out on a second expedition, this time focusing on the Macquarie River. This journey proved equally challenging, as the expedition encountered treacherous quicksands and bogs, and the Macquarie River also ended in a vast inland water system.

Despite not finding a navigable route to the sea, Oxley’s journals offer a detailed and fascinating account of the harsh Australian landscape, its indigenous inhabitants, and the unique challenges of early exploration. He meticulously documented the terrain, flora and fauna, and the impact of the harsh environment on both the expedition and the native population.

Key Findings:

Uninhabitable interior: Oxley discovered that the interior of New South Wales, west of a certain meridian, was largely uninhabitable due to the lack of water, wood, and grass, and the prevalence of bogs and swamps.
Lachlan River’s surprising end: The Lachlan River, expected to be a navigable waterway, terminated in a vast inland marsh, proving a major disappointment for Oxley and the colonial hopes for expanding westward.
Macquarie River’s extensive system: The Macquarie River, though not reaching the sea, proved to be a significant water system, receiving contributions from numerous streams and tributaries and eventually merging with other inland waters.
Unique geographical features: Oxley’s journals highlight the unique geographical features of New South Wales, including the vast plains, the extensive inland marshes, the dramatic mountain ranges, and the unusual presence of limestone throughout the interior.
Native inhabitants and their culture: Oxley provided valuable insights into the lives and culture of the indigenous people of the interior, including their hunting methods, tools, and burial practices.

Learning:

The harshness of the Australian interior: The reader will learn firsthand about the harsh realities of the Australian interior, its aridity, and the challenges of navigating it.
Early Australian exploration: The journals provide a glimpse into the early days of Australian exploration, highlighting the challenges, setbacks, and triumphs of pioneers navigating an unknown and unforgiving land.
Indigenous Australian culture: Oxley’s observations offer a glimpse into the lives and culture of the indigenous people of the interior, providing information on their hunting techniques, tools, and social structures.
Importance of water: Oxley’s account emphasizes the critical role of water in the interior landscape, highlighting how its scarcity shaped the environment, the lives of the natives, and the prospects for settlement.
The resilience of explorers: The reader will gain an appreciation for the resilience of early explorers, their ability to adapt to extreme conditions, and their unwavering determination to persevere despite setbacks and hardships.

Historical Context:

Oxley’s expeditions took place during a period of intense exploration and expansion in New South Wales. The colony was rapidly growing, and there was a strong desire to find new land for agriculture and settlement. Oxley’s journals reflect this ambition, but also highlight the challenges of navigating an unknown and often unforgiving environment.

Facts:

The Lachlan River does not reach the sea: Oxley discovered that the Lachlan River terminates in a vast inland marsh, not a navigable route to the sea.
The Macquarie River is a significant inland water system: Despite not reaching the sea, the Macquarie River is a substantial water system, receiving contributions from numerous tributaries.
The Australian interior is largely uninhabitable: The interior of New South Wales, west of a certain meridian, is a harsh and arid landscape, lacking sufficient water, wood, and grass to support significant settlements.
Limestone is found throughout the interior: Oxley’s expeditions revealed the presence of limestone deposits across a large swathe of the interior, suggesting potential for quarrying and other uses.
Native inhabitants are few and scattered: The interior is sparsely populated by native Australians, who live in small, nomadic family groups, relying on foraging and hunting for sustenance.
Native Australians have unique burial practices: Oxley observed elaborate burial mounds for individuals of high standing, distinct from the simpler burial customs of the coastal natives.
The Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers do not join: Despite initial hopes, Oxley discovered that the Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers do not connect, each terminating in separate inland water systems.
The Australian interior experiences distinct weather patterns: Oxley observed that rainfall patterns in the interior are different from those on the coast, with dry seasons in the interior coinciding with wet seasons on the coast.
Native Australians use pearl muscle shells as tools: Oxley noted that native Australians used pearl muscle shells, found in abundance in rivers and swamps, as knives and scrapers.
The Macquarie River is much larger than the Lachlan River: Oxley observed that the Macquarie River is significantly larger than the Lachlan, due to its numerous tributaries and a more abundant water supply.
The interior of Australia is remarkably flat: Oxley’s journeys highlighted the vastness and flatness of the Australian interior, with few significant hills or mountains.
Kangaroos and emus are abundant in the interior: Oxley’s expeditions encountered vast numbers of kangaroos and emus, demonstrating the abundance of these animals in the interior.
The Australian interior is diverse in vegetation: Oxley observed a wide variety of plant species, including acacia, eucalyptus, cypress, and numerous other trees and shrubs.
The Blue Mountains are the highest range in New South Wales: The Blue Mountains range is the highest in the state, significantly higher than the ranges located further westward.
The Lachlan River flows through a very low-lying region: Oxley noted that the Lachlan River flows through a region with extremely low elevation, making it prone to flooding and prone to losing water through evaporation.
Native dogs are prevalent in the interior: Oxley observed large numbers of native dogs, suggesting they were an important part of the ecosystem.
Iron bark trees are commonly found on stony ridges: Oxley noted that iron bark trees were prevalent on the stony ridges of the interior, suggesting they are particularly well-adapted to harsh conditions.
The Macquarie River is navigable for a considerable distance: Oxley found that the Macquarie River was navigable for boats for a significant distance, despite the presence of rapids.
Native companions are large birds commonly found in the interior: Oxley observed large flocks of native companions, a type of bittern, in the interior swamps.
The Australian interior has many types of eucalyptus trees: Oxley observed a variety of eucalyptus trees, each with unique characteristics and adaptations to the local environment.

Statistics:

18 weeks of provisions: Oxley’s second expedition carried provisions for 18 weeks, indicating the limited supplies available for such an undertaking.
1000 miles travelled: Oxley’s expeditions covered a vast distance, spanning nearly 1000 miles in total.
500 miles traced: The Lachlan River was traced for over 500 miles before its surprising termination in a vast inland marsh.
1000 feet high: Oxley described Mount Exmouth, a significant landmark in the interior, as being over 1000 feet high.
3000 feet high: Oxley estimated the height of the range containing Loadstone Hill to be over 3000 feet.
7000 feet high: Oxley estimated Sea View Mount, the highest point on his journey, to be between 6000 and 7000 feet high.
350 miles westward: Oxley’s first expedition travelled over 350 miles westward before reaching the Lachlan River’s surprising termination.
120 miles northward: Oxley travelled over 120 miles northward from the Lachlan River before finding the Macquarie River.
50 miles east: Oxley travelled over 50 miles eastward from the Macquarie River before reaching its termination in inland waters.
150 miles north: Oxley travelled over 150 miles north from the Macquarie River before finding its termination in inland waters.
40 miles north: The expedition travelled over 40 miles north from the Macquarie River before finding its termination in inland waters.
125 miles from Wellington Valley: The expedition travelled over 125 miles from Wellington Valley before reaching the point where the Macquarie River began to overflow its banks.
200 miles: The expedition travelled over 200 miles from Bathurst before finding the Macquarie River.
140 miles from Port Jackson: Port Macquarie is located approximately 140 miles north-east of Port Jackson, offering a significant expansion of the colony’s access to the coast.
60 miles in diameter: The plains near Arbuthnot’s Range were estimated to be 3 to 4 miles in diameter, highlighting their vastness.
250 miles: Oxley noted the similarity of botany and soil in two distinct regions over 250 miles apart, suggesting consistent environmental patterns across the interior.
300 miles: The expedition travelled over 300 miles from the Macquarie River to Port Macquarie, highlighting the vastness of the journey.
1000 feet wide: The Macquarie River, at its widest point, was measured to be over 1000 feet wide.
235 feet high: Oxley described the main waterfall on the Apsley River as being 235 feet high.
1000 feet high: The cliffs flanking Apsley River were estimated to be over 1000 feet high.
5000 feet high: Oxley estimated the elevation of the mountains surrounding the Apsley River to be around 5000 feet.
4700 feet high: Oxley estimated the height of the mountain the expedition descended to reach the Apsley River as over 4700 feet.
3000 feet high: Oxley estimated the height of the mountain ranges surrounding the Apsley River to be around 3000 feet.
150 feet high: The waterfall on the Apsley River was estimated to be 150 feet high.

Terms:

Guneah: A native Australian bark hut, used for shelter.
Waddy: A heavy wooden club used as a weapon by native Australians.
Mogo: A stone hatchet used by native Australians for various tasks.
Elamong: A native Australian shield.
Womera: A throwing stick used to propel spears.
Atriplex: A genus of succulent plants commonly found in dry and saline areas.
Eucalyptus dumosa: A type of dwarf eucalyptus tree, often found in dense scrubland.
Kangaroo rat: A small rodent commonly found in arid regions.
Polygonom junceum: A type of plant commonly found in marshy areas.
Banksia integrifolia: A type of Banksia tree, often found in coastal areas, with valuable wood.

Examples:

The discovery of the Lachlan River’s end: Oxley’s expedition spent weeks traveling down the Lachlan River, expecting to find a navigable waterway to the sea. Instead, they discovered its surprising termination in a vast inland marsh. This unexpected finding proved a major disappointment, challenging the colonial hopes for westward expansion.
The encounter with the native family: During his travels, Oxley encountered a small native family, consisting of a man, two women, and three children. The family was initially wary of the explorers, but eventually accepted gifts and allowed Oxley to observe their way of life, highlighting the diverse nature of indigenous Australian culture.
The discovery of fuller’s earth: During his journey, Oxley stumbled upon a deposit of saponaceous earth, which he determined to be fuller’s earth, a valuable material for cleaning and removing grease. This discovery highlights the potential for finding useful resources in the Australian interior.
The native dog’s affection: One of Oxley’s men killed a native dog, and its mate remained by the body, eventually dying of grief. This story reflects the deep bond that can exist between humans and animals, even in a wild and unforgiving environment.
The discovery of a native burial mound: Oxley discovered an elaborate burial mound, revealing a different burial practice than those commonly observed on the coast. This discovery provides valuable insights into the social and religious beliefs of the native Australians.
The treacherous quicksands: The expedition repeatedly encountered treacherous quicksands, posing a significant risk to the horses and their loads. This highlights the unpredictable nature of the Australian interior and the constant challenge of navigating its landscape.
The magnificent waterfalls: Oxley and his men encountered several awe-inspiring waterfalls, particularly the towering Bathurst Falls, showcasing the spectacular beauty of the Australian landscape.
The discovery of Port Macquarie: Oxley’s second expedition ultimately led him to the discovery of Port Macquarie, a safe harbor on the New South Wales coast, opening up a new area for potential settlement.
The native attack: On the eve of reaching Port Stephens, one of Oxley’s men was attacked and seriously injured by a group of natives, demonstrating the potential danger posed by the indigenous people of the coast.
The discovery of the boat: While facing a difficult crossing over a large inlet, Oxley’s men found a small boat washed ashore, which allowed them to transport their horses and baggage safely across the water, highlighting the importance of resourceful adaptability in survival.

Conclusion:

John Oxley’s journals of two expeditions into the interior of New South Wales offer a captivating glimpse into the early days of Australian exploration. They reveal a landscape of both great beauty and immense hardship, marked by vast plains, treacherous bogs, and dramatic mountain ranges.

While Oxley’s primary goal of finding navigable rivers to the sea was ultimately unsuccessful, his journeys yielded significant discoveries, including the vast inland water systems of the Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers, the presence of limestone deposits across the interior, and valuable insights into the lives and culture of the indigenous people.

Oxley’s journals highlight the resilience and determination of early explorers, their courage in facing unknown dangers, and their unwavering commitment to understanding the land they were exploring. They remain a valuable source of information on the natural history of Australia, providing a unique window into the harsh realities of early colonial life and the complex relationship between the colonists and the indigenous population.

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