Overview:
This two-volume work recounts the explorations of George Grey, a British explorer, during his voyages in the Western and North-Western regions of Australia between the years 1837 and 1840. Motivated by the desire to uncover a great river or inland water inlet, Grey meticulously documented his journeys, providing a detailed account of the geography, natural history, and indigenous cultures he encountered.
The first volume focuses on Grey’s journey from the Cape of Good Hope to Hanover Bay, where he established a temporary camp. He then embarked on a series of expeditions inland, battling harsh conditions, encountering native tribes, and discovering the Glenelg River – a significant freshwater source. This volume concludes with Grey’s detailed observations on the region’s natural history, climate, and aboriginal inhabitants, highlighting the potential for colonization and trade.
Key Findings:
- Discovery of the Glenelg River: A significant freshwater source that flows through a fertile and well-watered region.
- Importance of North-West Coast for Colonization and Trade: With its three excellent harbors and rich fertile plains, the region holds enormous potential for development.
- Unique Natural History: Grey’s expeditions revealed a plethora of new species of birds, reptiles, and insects, indicating a diverse and vibrant ecosystem.
- Complex Indigenous Culture: Grey’s encounters with various Aboriginal tribes provided insights into their customs, language, and beliefs, including their unique art and burial practices.
- Evidence of a White Race Amongst Aboriginal Tribes: The presence of individuals with lighter skin tones suggests a potential mingling of races or a separate population group.
Learning:
- Geography of Western Australia: The book provides a detailed overview of the complex and varied geography of Western Australia, including the vast sandstone ranges, fertile valleys, and numerous rivers.
- Tropical Climate: Grey’s observations highlight the distinctive features of the tropical climate, including the intense heat, frequent heavy rains, and the presence of sudden storms.
- Aboriginal Culture: The text offers insights into the complex social structures, beliefs, and traditions of the aboriginal tribes. This includes their artistic expressions, hunting practices, and methods of warfare.
- Challenges of Exploration: Through Grey’s personal experiences, readers learn about the hardships and dangers faced by early explorers, including disease, food shortages, and hostile encounters with native populations.
- Significance of Natural Resources: Grey’s research sheds light on the potential commercial value of natural resources, such as timber, gum, and lichens, found in Western Australia.
Historical Context:
The expeditions took place during a time of European expansion, with a growing interest in colonizing and exploiting the resources of newly discovered lands. The British Empire, seeking to expand its influence and secure trade routes, commissioned exploratory missions to regions like Western Australia. Grey’s work was undertaken under the auspices of the British government, reflecting the ambition to understand and develop this vast and largely unknown territory.
Facts:
- Camel Adaptations: Camels are used for transportation on rocky terrain despite their foot structure, which is traditionally associated with sandy environments.
- Guanche Extermination: The indigenous Guanches of Tenerife were nearly eradicated by the Spanish within a century of their arrival in the 1400s.
- Marine Blowing Stone: This natural phenomenon, involving a hollow rock where waves rush through, creating a roaring noise and spray, was observed near Santa Cruz.
- Slave Trade in Bahia: Despite its nominal abolition, the slave trade was still actively pursued in Bahia, with slaves being imported from Africa.
- Slave Uprising Plot: In Bahia, around 1835, a plot by slaves to seize the city and kill all the whites except foreigners was foiled only hours before it was to take place.
- Brazilian Instability: The various Brazilian states were plotting their separation from the Empire, leading to a revolt in 1837.
- Slave Religious Beliefs: Some slaves in Bahia believed that wearing a string of beads would lead to heaven after death.
- Slave Labor and Earnings: Slaves in Bahia worked hard, earning eighteen-pence per day, of which they were allowed to keep part for themselves.
- Lack of Roads in Bahia: The absence of roads prevented significant penetration into the interior, limiting interaction with the indigenous population.
- High Rate of Homicide in Bahia: Homicide and attempted homicide were common, reflecting a lack of effective law enforcement and a culture of retaliation.
- Influence of Rain on Sea: A fall of rain is known to calm a rough sea, as witnessed during Grey’s voyage from Bahia to the Cape.
- Luminous Spots in the Ocean: Bright phosphorescent spots in the ocean were observed, possibly due to bioluminescent organisms.
- Whale-Bird Habits: The whale-bird (Pachyptila vittata) is known to feed on the wing and is always on the move.
- Electrical Salpa: A unique species of Salpa was encountered, possessing electrical properties.
- Amphibious Fish: A remarkable species of fish (genus Chironectes) was observed walking on its elbows on the mud and swimming using its arms as fins.
- Mullet Adaptation: A species of mullet was seen changing from salt water to fresh water without any apparent ill effects.
- Shark Reproduction: Sharks are known to give birth to live young within their bodies, as observed by Grey when a caught shark was opened.
- Ant-Hills in Australia: The presence of large, prominent ant hills is a common feature of the Australian landscape.
- Gouty-Stemmed Trees: A unique species of Capparis with a gouty trunk and a valuable fruit was discovered in North-Western Australia.
- Sandstone Pillars in Australia: Remarkable sandstone pillars, forming formations resembling ruins and sculptures, were observed in a degraded landscape.
Statistics:
- Slave Population in Bahia: 100,000 slaves compared to 12,000 white residents.
- Slave Price in Bahia: A good slave cost between 90-100 pounds.
- Tide Rise and Fall in Western Australia: 37-38 feet.
- Height of Sandstone Cliffs in Western Australia: 300-400 feet.
- Circumference of a Gouty-Stemmed Tree: 28 feet, 6 inches.
- Height of Sandstone Pillars: Up to 40 feet.
- Number of Horses Acquired in Roti: 26 ponies.
- Horse Export Duty in Timor: 6 rupees per horse.
- Height of Mount Lyell: At least 1200 feet.
- Width of the Glenelg River: 3-4 miles across.
- Tide Rise and Fall in the Glenelg River: 20 feet.
- Number of Sheep Lost in the Expedition: 28 out of the original 31.
- Number of Ponies Lost in the Expedition: 7 out of the original 26.
- Temperature in the Camp Tent: 136 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Number of Native Huts in a single Location: 12 huts.
- Size of Native Hut: 14 feet in diameter.
- Height of Sandhills near Kolaina Plains: 400 feet.
- Distance Traveled in Search of Mr. Elliott: Approximately 120 miles.
- Length of the Gascoyne River Channel: 7 miles.
- Number of Native Huts North of the Gascoyne: 7 huts.
Terms:
- Spinifex: A prickly grass common in Australia.
- Eucalyptus: A genus of flowering trees native to Australia.
- Mangrove: A type of tree that thrives in coastal salt-water environments.
- Pandanus: A genus of tropical plants with spiky leaves and edible fruit.
- Kileys: Boomerangs or throwing sticks used by Aboriginals.
- Merro: A throwing stick used by Aboriginals to launch spears.
- Wilgey: A type of red earth used by Aboriginals for ceremonial purposes.
- Djanga: The Aboriginal word for white men.
- Spoor: Tracks or footprints left by animals.
- Boomer: An old male kangaroo.
Examples:
- Native Hunting Practices: Grey’s expeditions revealed the methods used by the natives to hunt kangaroos, opossums, and other animals, including smoking them out of hollows and using spearheads made from volcanic rock.
- Slave Resistance in Bahia: The story of the slave in the boat who vehemently denied the claim that slaves were wretched in their own country, highlighting the strong ties to their homeland and resentment towards their captivity.
- Animal Behavior and Interactions: Observations of the frilled lizard’s aggressive defense mechanism, the Boa constrictor killing a kangaroo, and the relationship between the native dogs and their masters, showcasing the diverse animal life and interactions in the ecosystem.
- Native Beliefs and Superstitions: The tale of the native woman who believed Grey was the ghost of her deceased son, illustrating the persistence of superstitious beliefs.
- Native Combat: The account of the duel between Jenna and the murderer of his sister, revealing the elaborate rituals and codes of honor involved in Aboriginal warfare.
- Native Communication and Language: Grey’s attempts to communicate with the native tribes, highlighting the difficulties faced in translating and interpreting their language and the challenges of establishing trust.
- First Settlers’ Hardships: The description of the out-settlers living in a remote area, highlighting the lack of resources and dangers they faced.
- Whale-Boat Wreck: The harrowing account of Grey and his party losing a boat in the hurricane, demonstrating the unpredictable nature of the natural world and the perils faced by explorers.
- Mirages and Deception: The experience of the explorers being deceived by a mirage on the Plains of Kolaina, illustrating the challenges of interpreting the environment.
- Native Sorcery and Superstition: The encounter with the native sorcerers who attempted to charm Grey and his party away, highlighting the importance of understanding and respecting local beliefs.
Conclusion:
“Journals of Two Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia, Volume 1” offers a fascinating glimpse into the largely unexplored world of Western Australia in the 1830s. Through detailed observations, encounters with indigenous tribes, and accounts of the challenges he faced, Grey provides a valuable record of the natural wonders, geographical complexities, and cultural richness of this remote region. His discoveries, including the Glenelg River and the fertile plains of the Gascoyne, highlighted the potential for colonization and trade in North-Western Australia. The book serves as a testament to the adventurous spirit and determination of early explorers, while also offering a unique perspective on the lives and cultures of the indigenous populations of Australia.