Overview:
Isabella L. Bird Bishop, a renowned female explorer, embarked on a challenging journey through Persia and Kurdistan in 1890. Her account, published in 1891, offers a detailed and insightful glimpse into the diverse landscapes, cultures, and political complexities of these regions. From the bustling city of Baghdad to the remote and mountainous Bakhtiari country, Bishop encountered a range of people, from the city-dwelling Arabs and Persians to the nomadic tribes of the Zagros mountains. She documents her travels in a lively and engaging style, capturing the challenges and beauty of her experiences, including navigating treacherous terrain, witnessing customs and religious practices, and observing the interactions between different communities.
The book provides a fascinating insight into the political climate of the time, with tensions rising between Persia and Russia, and the British Empire seeking to expand its influence in the region. Bishop’s journey through Kurdistan sheds light on the ongoing struggles of nomadic tribes against Persian rule, their complex social structure, and their unique customs and beliefs. Through her detailed descriptions, Bishop offers a rich and valuable historical record of a region undergoing significant change.
Key Findings:
- Persia’s Political Landscape: Bishop witnessed the growing Russian influence in Persia, particularly in the north, and the British Empire’s efforts to counter it. This rivalry significantly shaped the political and economic environment of the region.
- Nomadic Tribes of Kurdistan: The book provides detailed insights into the nomadic Bakhtiari tribes, their customs, beliefs, and social structures. Bishop encountered their unique way of life, including their annual migrations, their reliance on pastoralism, and their complex relationship with the Persian government.
- Social and Religious Practices: Bishop’s account offers valuable insights into the daily lives of the people she encountered, including their customs, religious practices, and social interactions. She details the strict social codes governing women’s lives, the prevalence of opium use, and the influence of religious beliefs on everyday life.
- The Power of the Ilkhani: The book explores the authority of the Ilkhani, the feudal head of the Bakhtiari tribes, and the dynamics of power within these nomadic groups. Bishop documents the complex relationships between the Ilkhani, the Ilbegi, and other influential Khans, highlighting the ongoing struggles for power and control in the region.
Learning:
- Geography and Topography: The reader learns about the varied and challenging terrain of Persia and Kurdistan, including the vast plains, the rugged Zagros mountains, and the winding rivers like the Tigris, Euphrates, and Karun. Bishop’s detailed descriptions of the region’s landscapes offer a geographical understanding of the context in which these cultures flourished.
- The Life of Nomadic Tribes: The reader gains insight into the unique way of life of nomadic tribes, their annual migrations, their reliance on pastoralism, and their traditional customs and beliefs. Bishop’s account provides a nuanced understanding of the challenges and resilience of nomadic communities, their interactions with settled populations, and the influence of Persian rule on their lives.
- Persian Culture and Society: The reader learns about the social and religious practices of Persia, including the strict social codes governing women’s lives, the prevalence of opium use, and the influence of religious beliefs on everyday life. Bishop’s observations provide a detailed and intimate understanding of the cultural complexities and the impact of Western influence on traditional ways of life.
Historical Context:
Bishop’s journey took place in 1890, a time of significant change and upheaval in Persia. The region was facing growing pressure from Russia, which sought to expand its influence in the north. The British Empire was also seeking to expand its commercial and political presence, leading to a complex and often tense geopolitical landscape. Bishop’s account reflects the impact of these global power struggles on the lives of the people she encountered, particularly the nomadic tribes who sought to maintain their independence amidst encroaching Persian control.
Facts:
- Trade in Persia: The trade of Bushire, the most important seaport in Persia, is significant, with the Persian Gulf Trading Company, Messrs. Hotz and Company, Messrs. Gray, Paul, and Company, and the British India Steam Navigation Company playing a key role. (Letter I)
- Importance of Date Palms: Date palms are a crucial resource in the region, providing not only nutritious food, but also building materials, fuel, carpets, ropes, and mats. (Letter I)
- The Tigris River: The Tigris, despite its shallows and sandbanks, is a vital waterway for trade and transport, connecting Baghdad and other cities to the Gulf. (Letter I)
- Kornah and the Garden of Eden: Kornah, at the junction of the Tigris and Euphrates, is reputed among Arabs to be the site of the Garden of Eden. (Letter I)
- Tomb of Ezra: The tomb of Ezra, venerated by Jews, Moslems, and Oriental Christians, is located on the Tigris River. (Letter I)
- Kufas or Gophers: These ancient, round, bitumen-covered baskets are used for transporting passengers, goods, and even animals. (Letter I)
- Sabeans and their Craft: The Sabeans, also known as “Christians of St. John,” are known for their skills as gold and silversmiths and are highly sought after by Arab encampments. (Letter I)
- Kut-al-Aimarah: This military post and Arab town on the Tigris is a notable trading center. (Letter I)
- Arab Tribes Under Ottoman Rule: The Arab tribes of the Tigris region are facing increasing oppression and exploitation under Ottoman rule. (Letter I)
- Cultivation Techniques: The traditional agricultural methods used in Chaldæa and Mesopotamia rely heavily on irrigation and produce abundant crops despite challenging conditions. (Letter II)
- Palace of Ctesiphon: The ruins of the ancient palace of Ctesiphon, with its grand archway, offer a glimpse into the grandeur of the Parthian kings. (Letter II)
- Jewish Community in Baghdad: Baghdad boasts a significant Jewish population, many of whom are influential and wealthy. (Letter II)
- The “Fish of Tobias”: This enormous fish, a native of the Tigris River, is a staple food for the poor in Baghdad. (Letter II)
- Seyyids and their Status: Seyyids, descendants of Mohammed, enjoy high social status and respect. (Letter II)
- Arab Costume: The abba, a long, sleeveless cloak, is the distinctive national costume of the Arabs. (Letter II)
- Tattooing: Arab women, particularly those from Bedouin backgrounds, practice extensive tattooing as an ornamental practice. (Letter II)
- The “Date Boils”: This mysterious skin malady affects nearly the entire population of Baghdad. (Letter II)
- The Medical Mission: The medical mission in Baghdad plays a vital role in alleviating human suffering and promoting understanding between different communities. (Letter II)
- The Holwan River: This tributary of the Diyalah River flows through Khannikin, a Turkish town with a rich history and trade. (Letter III)
- The “Demon Wind”: This harsh, icy wind, originating from the Pamir desert, poses a severe threat to life in the Zagros mountains. (Letter III)
- The Ali-Ilahis: This religious sect, also known as “Davidites,” venerate King David and believe in a series of divine incarnations. (Letter IV)
- The Gates of Zagros: This ancient roadway through the Zagros mountains connects Babylonia to Media. (Letter IV)
- Tak-i-Girreh: This archway of white marble marks the entrance to the Gardan-i-Tak-i-Girreh pass. (Letter IV)
- Kirrind Valley: This valley in Kurdistan is characterized by its fertile soil, abundant water, and a high altitude. (Letter IV)
- The “Fish of Tobias”: This fish, caught in the Tigris River, is often found hanging across the backs of donkeys. (Letter II)
- Harunabad: This village, located on the upper waters of the Kerkhah River, is known for its cold climate. (Letter V)
- Kirmanshah: This city is known for its carpets, considered some of the finest in Persia. (Letter V)
- The Takt-i-Bostan: This site, containing magnificent rock sculptures, is located near Kirmanshah. (Letter V)
- The “Modakel”: This system of illicit percentage, common throughout Persia, is a source of oppression and inefficiency. (Letter V)
- The “Fish of Tobias”: This large fish, found in the Tigris River, is an important source of food for the poor. (Letter II)
- The “Fish of Tobias”: This fish, found in the Tigris River, is a staple food for the poor. (Letter II)
- The “Fish of Tobias”: This large fish, found in the Tigris River, is an important source of food for the poor. (Letter II)
Statistics:
- Bushire Trade: In 1889, the British tonnage entering the Bushire roadstead was 111,745 out of 118,570 tons, with imports from British territory amounting to £744,018 out of £790,832. (Letter I, Footnote 2)
- Date Palm Production: 60,000 tons of dates were exported from Basrah in 1890, with a profit of £20 per acre annually. (Letter I)
- Baghdad Population: The population of Baghdad is estimated at 120,000 souls. (Letter II)
- Baghdad Trade: In 1889, imports from Europe amounted to £621,140, from India to £239,940, with exports to Europe and America valued at £469,200, and to India at £35,150. (Letter III)
- Gum Exports: 13,400 cwts. of gum were exported in 1889. (Letter III)
- Liquorice Exports: 13,400 cwts. of gum were exported in 1889. (Letter III)
- Gall Nut Exports: 13,400 cwts. of gum were exported in 1889. (Letter III)
- Khannikin Population: The population of Khannikin has fallen from 5000 to 1800 in recent years. (Letter III)
- Kirmanshah Population: The population of Kirmanshah has fallen from 12,000 houses to 25,000 souls. (Letter V)
- Kirmanshah Trade: The city has a large trade and is considered one of the most prosperous places in Persia. (Letter V)
- Jewish Population of Baghdad: There are 30,000 Jews in Baghdad. (Letter II)
- Christian Population of Baghdad: There are 5000 Christians in Baghdad. (Letter II)
- Feraghan Plain: The Feraghan plain, 72 miles long by 15 miles broad, is considered one of the finest and most fertile plains in Persia. (Letter V)
- Kûm Population: The population of Kûm is estimated at 10,000 souls. (Letter VII)
- Persian Trade: 20,000 to 26,000 laden mules are used in the carriage of goods to and from Persian cities. (Letter III)
- Kûm’s Shrine: The golden dome of the shrine of Fatima is said to weigh 140 lbs. (Letter VII)
- Bakhtiari Tribes: The Bakhtiari tribes number 29,100 families, which translates to a population of 232,800. (Letter XIV)
- Bakhtiari Tribute: The Bakhtiari tribes pay a tribute of about two tumans a household. (Letter XIV)
- Feili Lur Tribes: The Feili Lur tribes numbered 56,000 families 50 years ago. (Letter XIV)
- Population of Isfahan: The population of Isfahan has fallen from 650,000 souls to less than 80,000. (Letter XII)
- Opium Exports: 4500 cases of opium, worth £90 a case, are exported from Isfahan, with three-fourths going to China. (Letter XII)
Terms:
- Shamal: A north-west wind prevalent in the Persian Gulf, often accompanied by sandstorms. (Letter I)
- Kotal: A rock ladder, a steep and dangerous mountain pass. (Letter I)
- Charvadar: A muleteer, someone who transports goods on mules. (Letter I)
- Serdab: A semi-subterranean room, often used for dwelling in hot weather. (Letter IV)
- Imamsada: A shrine built over the tomb of a holy figure, particularly revered by Shiah Muslims. (Letter IV)
- Kiffiyeh: A traditional Arab headgear, a square shawl worn over the head and often covering the face. (Letter I)
- Abambar: A covered reservoir used to store water. (Letter VII)
- Pardah: A practice of seclusion and veiling, typically observed by women of higher social status in Muslim communities. (Letter II)
- Hakim: A physician or healer. (Letter II)
- Kanaat: An underground irrigation channel, essential for water distribution in arid regions. (Letter XIV)
Examples:
- The “Fish of Tobias” (Letter II): This large fish, caught in the Tigris River, is a common sight in Baghdad, often being transported on the backs of donkeys. Its importance as a source of food for the poor highlights the economic realities of the city.
- The “Date Boils” (Letter II): The universal prevalence of these mysterious boils in Baghdad illustrates the health challenges faced by the population and the lack of understanding surrounding the cause and cure.
- The Medical Mission in Baghdad (Letter II): The positive impact of the medical mission in Baghdad, serving people of all faiths, showcases the power of healthcare to transcend religious and cultural barriers and bring relief to those in need.
- The “Demon Wind” (Letter III): The “demon wind” that swept across the Zagros mountains during Bishop’s journey highlights the harshness of the winter climate and the danger it posed to travelers.
- The “Gates of Zagros” (Letter IV): The ancient roadway through the Zagros mountains, connecting Babylonia to Media, exemplifies the historical importance of this region and the enduring legacy of its past.
- The “Tak-i-Girreh” (Letter IV): This remarkable archway of white marble, marking the entrance to the Gardan-i-Tak-i-Girreh pass, illustrates the architectural artistry and the enduring cultural significance of these ancient structures.
- The Tak-i-Kasr (Letter II): The magnificent archway of the palace of Ctesiphon, 100 feet in height, highlights the grandeur of the Parthian kings and their architectural achievements.
- The Arab Khan in Kut-al-Aimarah (Letter I): The reception of the European travelers by the Arab Khan and his tribal warriors showcases the traditional social structures and the complex relationship between these communities and the Ottoman authorities.
- The “Fish of Tobias” (Letter II): This enormous fish, caught in the Tigris River, is a staple food for the poor in Baghdad. (Letter II)
- The Ilkhani’s Palace in Ardal (Letter XIV): This fortified palace, resembling a two-storied caravanserai, illustrates the traditional architecture and the authority of the Ilkhani, the feudal head of the Bakhtiari tribes.
Conclusion:
Isabella L. Bird Bishop’s “Journeys in Persia and Kurdistan, Volume 1 (of 2)” offers a captivating account of a challenging and transformative journey through a region undergoing significant change. Through her detailed descriptions of the diverse landscapes, cultures, and political dynamics, Bishop paints a vivid picture of Persia and Kurdistan in the late 19th century. The reader gains an understanding of the historical context of the time, including the growing Russian influence, the struggles of nomadic tribes against Persian rule, and the complexities of social and religious practices. The book highlights the resilience of nomadic communities, their unique customs and beliefs, and the impact of global power struggles on their lives. Bishop’s vivid accounts of her encounters with the people, her experiences navigating treacherous terrain, and her observations of cultural practices offer a valuable historical record of a region undergoing significant transformation.