Journeys in Persia and Kurdistan, Volume 2 (of 2) Informative Summary

Overview:

Isabella L. Bird, a renowned 19th-century travel writer, embarks on a daring journey through Persia’s Bakhtiari mountains and Kurdistan in 1891. Her detailed account offers a glimpse into the lives of diverse tribes, their customs, and the harsh realities of Persian and Turkish rule. She navigates treacherous terrain, observes intricate irrigation systems, and documents the prevalence of tribal feuds and oppression.

The narrative delves into the Bakhtiari tribes, their complex social structures, and their strained relationship with the Persian government. Bird highlights their unique culture, including their reliance on pastoralism and agricultural practices adapted to the mountainous terrain. She also exposes the harsh reality of their poverty, attributed to both internal conflicts and oppressive taxation by Persian officials.

Key Findings:

The Bakhtiari tribes, though united under a single chief, retain strong tribal identities and engage in frequent internal conflicts.
Persian rule over the Bakhtiari is tenuous, with local chiefs often acting independently and resisting central authority.
The tribes are impoverished due to oppressive taxation and the ongoing cycle of tribal wars, which leave them vulnerable to further exploitation.
There is a widespread desire for British intervention, believing that English rule would bring peace and prosperity.

Learning:

Bakhtiari Culture: Bird provides a rich understanding of Bakhtiari life, including their social hierarchy, nomadic lifestyle, and reliance on livestock and agriculture. She details their unique techniques for cultivating crops in challenging environments and their use of natural resources for food and fuel.
Persian Governance: The narrative exposes the corrupt and oppressive nature of Persian governance, highlighting the heavy taxation imposed on the Bakhtiari tribes and the widespread fear of government officials.
Blood Feuds: Bird explores the complex system of blood feuds, a defining aspect of Bakhtiari tribal life. She analyzes its impact on social relations and its role as both a deterrent to violence and a source of ongoing conflict.
Gender Roles: The narrative reveals the stark realities of gender inequality in Bakhtiari society, where women are largely confined to domestic roles, subject to men’s authority, and often exploited through polygamy.

Historical Context:

Bird’s journey takes place during a time of significant political and social change in Persia. The country is grappling with the legacy of its powerful rulers of the past, and the growing influence of European powers, particularly Russia, is creating anxieties about its future. The Bakhtiari tribes are caught in the crosshairs of these political forces, struggling to maintain their independence and protect their traditional way of life.

Facts:

Bakhtiari Land Tenure: The Bakhtiari tribes possess individual rights to arable lands, subject to a yearly fee paid to the Ilkhani (chieftain). Pasturage is free, but each tribe has designated camping grounds that can be changed by the Ilkhani.
Bakhtiari Diet: The Bakhtiari primarily consume mast (curdled milk), buttermilk, cheese, roghan (clarified butter), nan (bread), and wild celery. They rarely use fresh milk and prefer unripe fruit.
Persian Engineering: Shah Abbas the Great, a 17th-century ruler, attempted to divert the Karun River into the Zainderud River, but the project was abandoned due to geological challenges and political unrest.
Blood Feuds: Blood feuds are a complex system of retribution based on the severity of the offense, ranging from killing to cattle-theft to social ostracization.
Bakhtiari Women: While women are unveiled and have some freedom, they are subject to men’s authority and are at risk of being kicked or physically abused.
Bakhtiari Punishment: The relatives of the victim of homicide can choose to kill, banish, fine, or pardon the perpetrator.
Bakhtiari Trade: The Bakhtiari export opium, mules, colts, sheep, charcoal, gall-nuts, tobacco, rice, gum mastic, butter, fox and marten skins, and cherry sticks.
Bakhtiari Medicine: Bakhtiari healers rely on herbs and charms, and often treat illnesses with various remedies, including willow bark for fever, bitumen for dyspepsia, and live hens for snake-bite.
Acorn Flour: In the remote village of Sahid, people consume bread made from acorn flour, which they collect and process by removing bitter juices.
Women’s Hair Offerings: Bakhtiari women often sacrifice their hair locks to honor their deceased husbands or other male relatives.
The Gardan-i-Cherri Pass: This pass marks a transition in the scenery and signals potential danger from tribesmen, requiring careful arrangements for safety.
The Zard Kuh Range: This range is characterized by its narrow wall-like structure, ruggedness, lack of prominent peaks, and near-total absence of vegetation.
The Sar-i-Cheshmeh-i-Kurang: This spring was initially believed to be the source of the Karun River but later proven false.
The Karun River: This river is notable for its unusual winding course, running parallel to the Bazuft River, and is considered important for potential future commercial activity.
The Shah’s Tribute: The Shah levies a set tribute on each tribe, which is often doubled or tripled by local governors.
The Kar Kanun Cleft: Shah Abbas the Great attempted to create an artificial channel to connect the Karun and Zainderud rivers, leaving behind a large cleft as evidence of the unfinished project.
The Kuh-i-Rang: This mountain range is considered the true source of the Karun and Zainderud rivers and marks a significant change in the landscape.
The Kala Kuh Range: This range is more broken into distinct peaks and is considered finer than the Zard Kuh.
The Ab-i-Diz River: This river is formed by the confluence of the Ab-i-Burujird and Ab-i-Basnoi, and is a major waterway for drainage.
The Ab-i-Basnoi: This river flows parallel to the Karun River and joins the Ab-i-Burujird to form the Ab-i-Diz.
The Pul-i-Kul Bridge: This ancient stone bridge, with level approaches, points to a past period of greater civilization in Upper Elam.

Statistics:

The Karun River: Travels 250 miles with an aggregate fall of 9000 feet.
The Tang-i-Darkash Warkash: This gorge represents the drainage of 2500 square miles.
The Zard Kuh Range: Some summits reach 13,000 feet in elevation.
The Gil-i-Shah Pass: This pass has an altitude of nearly 11,700 feet.
The Pambakal Pass: This pass has an altitude of 11,400 feet.
The Gal-i-Bard-i-Jamal Pass: This pass has an altitude of 10,500 feet.
The Gal-i-Gav Pass: This pass has an altitude of 11,150 feet.
The Gardan-i-Cherri Pass: This pass has an elevation of 9200 feet.
The Kuh-i-Shahan: This mountain has an elevation of 12,010 feet.
The Gardan-i-Gunak: This pass has an elevation of 10,200 feet.
Parwez: This mountain has an elevation of 11,000 feet.
The Kala Kuh: This mountain has an elevation of 9200 feet.
The Ab-i-Diz River: Has a fall of 4000 feet.
The Pul-i-Hawa: This bridge has an elevation of 3800 feet.
The Kuh-i-Parwez: This mountain has a drop of 4300 feet to the Holiwar valley.
The Tuk-i-Karu: This mountain has a 5000-foot scarp to the river.
The Tang-i-Bahrain: This gorge has a drop of 5000 feet to the Ab-i-Burujird.
The Handawan Pass: This pass has an altitude of 7500 feet.
The Shuturun Kuh: This mountain has an elevation of 7500 feet.
The Lake Irene: This lake has an altitude of 8800 feet.

Terms:

Ilyats: Nomadic pastoral tribes, specifically in the Bakhtiari region.
Tang: A narrow gorge or ravine, a common feature in the mountainous terrain.
Yailak: Summer pastures used by the Bakhtiari tribes.
Ketchuda: The headman of a village.
Imamzadas: Shrines built over the tombs of revered figures, often visited for religious purposes.
Pir: A saint or holy person.
Kafirs: A derogatory term used by Muslims to refer to non-Muslims, particularly Christians.
Hakim: A physician or healer.
Mast: Curdled milk, a staple food for the Bakhtiari.
Roghan: Clarified butter, also a common ingredient in Bakhtiari cuisine.
Nān: Leavened bread, a staple food across Persia.
Kabobs: Small pieces of meat roasted on skewers.
Kiziks: Animal dung molded into cakes for fuel.
Shulwars: Loose, wide-legged trousers, a common garment for men in Persia.
Canaat: Underground tunnels used for carrying water for irrigation.
Gaz: A sweetish glaze collected from oak leaves, used as a dessert ingredient.
Ghevas: Shoes made from stout cotton webbing and compressed rag soles.
Yekdan: A leather saddlebag used for carrying items.
Chapi: The national Bakhtiari dance.
Firman: A royal decree or order.
Shroff: A money changer.
Mejidieh: A Turkish gold coin.
Kopecks: Russian copper coins.
Khurjins: Leather bags used for carrying goods on a saddle.
Sartip: A high-ranking military officer, equivalent to a colonel.
Farash-Bashi: A head servant or steward.
Zapptieh: A gendarme, or police officer, often used for escorting travelers.
Teskareh: A travel permit required in Turkey.
Kaimakam: A district administrator in Turkey.
Malek: A chieftain or lord, often a local ruler.
Qasha: A priest, specifically a Syrian Christian priest.
Catholicos: The Patriarch of the Syrian Church.
Nazarenes: A term used by Muslims to refer to Syrian Christians.
Tanap: A measurement of land, roughly 256 square yards.
Nasr: A manager or administrator of an estate.
Urf: Unwritten law, based on tradition and precedents, prevalent in Persia.
Shah-r: Law based on the Koran, administered by religious teachers.
Modakel: Extra payments or bribes demanded by officials.
Medressehs: Religious colleges in Persia.
Kourbana: The Holy Communion in the Syrian Church.
Ashirets: Nomadic tribal groups in the Kurdistan mountains, particularly Syrian Christians.
Maleks: Chieftains, often rulers of a tribal group.
Raya’h: Subject people, as opposed to nomadic tribal groups.
Zaptiehs: Gendarmes, often used for escorting travelers.
Vilayet: A Turkish province.

Examples:

The Gorab Robbery: A group of Lurs attempted to rob Bird and her party while they were camped at Gorab. Aziz Khan, with the help of the Agha, managed to scare them away with firearms.
The Arjanak Fortress: Mirab Khan’s village of Arjanak is built on steep ledges, with a fortress built into the cliffs for protection in case of attacks.
The Badush Gully: This narrow ravine is characterized by the presence of bituminous shale and a chalybeate spring, indicating the presence of minerals.
The Kalahoma Feud: Taimur Khan, chief of the Magawe tribe, is embroiled in a blood feud with Aslam Khan, the chief of the Zalaki tribe. The feud stems from a murder committed by Taimur’s nephew against Aslam’s relative, and Taimur’s subsequent protection of the murderer.
The Kar Kanun: This deep artificial gash in the Kuh-i-Rang mountain was created by Shah Abbas the Great in an attempt to divert the Karun River.
The Stolen Horse: A man steals the chestnut horse Karun from the caravan while they are camped at Masir, highlighting the ongoing threat of robbery.
The Love Philtre: Mirab Khan’s wives request Bird to provide a love philtre to regain their husband’s affections.
The Shahbadar Village: This village is only inhabited for three months in winter, and the inhabitants live in primitive dwellings built on steep ledges.
The Pul-i-Guwa Bridge: This wicker bridge over the Guwa River is a testament to the Bakhtiari’s ingenuity in crossing difficult terrain.
The Kalahoma Incident: A horse attack nearly kills Bird while she is having lunch.
The Kalahoma Visit: Bird visits Taimur Khan’s wives in their poor and crowded quarters, highlighting the poverty of even the chieftains.
The Gorab Incident: The Lurs threaten to rob Bird and her party while they are at Gorab, showcasing the ongoing threat of banditry.
The Arjanak Incident: The Agha confronts some Lurs who threaten to strip and kill him, demonstrating the potential danger faced by travelers.

Conclusion:

Isabella L. Bird’s “Journeys in Persia and Kurdistan” provides a unique and insightful account of a complex and often overlooked region. Her narrative offers a glimpse into the lives of the Bakhtiari tribes, exposing their rich cultural heritage, their struggles for survival, and their longing for peace and prosperity. Bird’s meticulous observations of the terrain, the intricate irrigation systems, and the political landscape reveal the challenges faced by these tribes and the impact of both Persian and Turkish governance on their lives.

The journey also highlights the plight of Syrian Christians, who are caught between the oppressive rule of the Ottoman Empire and the predatory raids of the Kurds. Their story emphasizes the persistent threat of violence, the pervasive poverty, and the resilience of their faith in the face of adversity.

Despite the hardships she endures and the dangers she faces, Bird’s spirit of exploration and her empathy for the people she encounters shine throughout her narrative. Her journey offers a timeless and compelling window into a world on the cusp of change, where the struggles for independence, the desire for justice, and the power of faith continue to shape human lives.

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