Overview:
D.H. Lawrence’s “Sea and Sardinia” is a vibrant travelogue that offers a glimpse into the rugged beauty and unique character of the island in 1921. Lawrence’s journey begins in Sicily, where he finds himself repelled by the “sulphureous demons” of the locals and a sense of unease brought on by Mount Etna. Seeking escape, he sets sail for Sardinia, drawn to its reputation as a place outside the bounds of civilization. He embarks on a journey across the island, encountering its diverse landscapes, from the barren coastlines to the mountainous interior, and its people, from the rough-and-tumble peasants to the more refined town dwellers.
Lawrence’s observations are keen and often humorous. He notes the stark contrasts between the island’s landscapes and its people, and the enduring influence of history and social realities. He grapples with the impact of the recent war, the rising tide of socialism, and the tension between traditional ways of life and the encroaching forces of modernity. His journey is not merely a record of his travels, but a reflection on the human condition and the complexities of a rapidly changing world.
Key Findings:
- Sardinia’s Unique Character: The island’s rugged beauty and untamed spirit, its sense of being outside of civilization, are prominent throughout the text. Lawrence’s observations highlight its contrasting landscapes and its diverse people, contributing to its unique character.
- Impact of the War: The war’s profound impact on Sardinia’s social and economic landscape is a recurring theme. Lawrence notes the depletion of livestock, the decline of agricultural production, and the widespread unemployment.
- Social Tensions: Lawrence explores the clash between traditional ways of life and the encroaching forces of modernity. He observes the tension between peasants and city dwellers, the changing role of women, and the rise of socialism.
- Masculinity and Gender Roles: Lawrence’s observations of Sardinian men and women, their attire, and their interactions, highlight the island’s unique approach to gender roles and the enduring presence of traditional values.
Learning:
- The Power of Place: Lawrence’s journey illustrates how location and environment can shape human experience and create distinct identities. He observes how Sardinia’s landscapes and culture have shaped its people and contributed to their unique ways of life.
- The Enduring Impact of History: The text provides a glimpse into a historical moment, revealing how past events continue to influence present-day realities. The war’s impact on Sardinia’s social and economic landscape is a powerful reminder of the lasting consequences of conflict.
- The Dynamics of Social Change: Lawrence’s observations of social tensions, class divisions, and the changing role of women offer a fascinating look at the complexities of social change and its impact on individual lives.
- The Importance of Observation: The text serves as a reminder of the value of close observation and the power of detailed descriptions in capturing the nuances of human experience and the world around us.
Historical Context:
The text is set in 1921, a time of significant political and social upheaval following World War I. Europe is still recovering from the war’s devastation, and the rise of socialism and the search for new political and social orders are in the air. Sardinia, like many other regions, is grappling with the impact of these changes, as well as the ongoing influence of its past.
Facts:
- Sardinia has a unique history, having never been fully subdued by Romans, Phoenicians, Greeks, or Arabs. It is seen as a place outside the circuit of civilization.
- The island has a diverse landscape with barren coastlines, moor-like hills, and the Gennargentu mountain range.
- The main industries in Sardinia are mining, agriculture, and fishing.
- The traditional Sardinian costume includes a black sheepskin tunic with wool outside and a long stocking cap.
- Sardinia is known for its unique traditions and customs, including its lively Carnival celebrations.
- The island’s main agricultural products include wheat, olives, grapes, and almonds.
- Sardinia has a distinctive language, with unique words and phrases, making it difficult for outsiders to fully understand.
- The island is prone to malaria, particularly during the summer months.
- The Sardinian people have a reputation for being strong, independent, and sometimes distrustful.
- The island’s villages often have a distinctive architectural style, with round tiled roofs, stone walls, and narrow, winding streets.
- The Risveglio inn in Sorgono is known for its rough, unkempt atmosphere, and the poor quality of its food.
- The island has a rich folklore and tradition, including stories about the Paladins of France, a knightly order who battled against evil.
- The Beati Paoli were a secret society in Sicily, said to protect the poor and assassinate the wealthy.
- Sardinia has a strong Catholic tradition.
- The island is home to a variety of wildlife, including wild boars, hares, sheep, goats, and cattle.
- The autovie (bus system) in Sardinia is heavily subsidized by the government.
- Sardinia is known for its beautiful coastline and beaches, popular with tourists.
- The island has a strong sense of local identity and pride.
- Sardinia has a rich cultural heritage, with traditional songs, dances, and crafts.
- The island is a popular destination for hiking and outdoor activities.
Statistics:
- The Sea and Sardinia travelogue is set in 1921.
- Sardinia mines enough coal for its own needs, but it’s very soft and unsuitable for steam engines.
- The island is almost 2,500 feet above sea level.
- The journey by train from Cagliari to Mandas, a distance of 50 miles, took five hours.
- The journey by train from Mandas to Sorgono, a distance of 60 miles, took approximately seven hours.
- The Risveglio inn in Sorgono charges 24 francs for a night’s stay and three meals.
- The journey by bus from Sorgono to Nuoro, a distance of 90 miles, took around seven hours.
- The Risveglio inn in Sorgono charges 4 pence for a night’s stay and the use of a rush mat as a bed.
- The bus from Sorgono to Nuoro costs 27 francs for a first-class ticket and 20 francs for a second-class ticket.
- The journey by bus from Nuoro to Terranova di Sardegna, a distance of over 90 miles, took around eight hours.
- The ticket from Terranova di Sardegna to Cività Vecchia cost 150 francs for two people.
- The train from Cività Vecchia to Naples cost 103 lire for one pound.
- The railway ticket-collector earns 12,000 lire a year, while a qualified teacher earns 5,000 lire.
- The price of bread in Germany was 5 francs a kilo.
- The journey by train from Naples to Palermo took around 24 hours.
- The ticket from Naples to Palermo cost 105 francs for one person.
- The price of entry to the marionette show in Palermo was 40 centimes.
- The dinner at the inn in Siniscola cost 15 francs for two people.
- The bus from Siniscola to Terranova di Sardegna cost 70 francs for two people.
- The price of a ticket from Terranova di Sardegna to Cività Vecchia was 150 francs for two people.
Terms:
- Bercole – Saddle-bags worn by Sardinian peasants.
- Cinghiale – Wild boar, a common dish in Sardinia.
- Dazio – Customs house.
- Festa – Festival, holiday.
- Girovago – Wandering peddler.
- Intreprete – Interpreter, a word used with a slight religious connotation.
- Malvagia – Malmsey, a type of fortified wine.
- Macaroni – A type of pasta.
- Minestra – Soup.
- Salsiccia – Sausage.
Examples:
- Mount Etna: Lawrence describes Mount Etna as a “wicked witch” and a “terrible torturer” that can make men “mad” with its powerful vibrations.
- The Sardinian Costume: Lawrence meticulously describes the traditional Sardinian costume, with its black sheepskin tunic, long stocking cap, and white linen breeches, highlighting its stark beauty and contrasting colors.
- The Donkey: Lawrence highlights the small size of Sardinian donkeys, describing them as “wee things” that “plod bravely” under their loads.
- The Holy Family: Lawrence mocks the Italian families he encounters on the ship, describing them as an “unholy triad of imbecility” for their indulgent behavior towards their children.
- The Woman in the Procession: Lawrence describes a woman in the procession at Tonara, her “maroon skirt [swinging] like a fan,” and her “geranium scarlet [dress] [flashing] a solid moving mass of colour.”
- The Man with the Dog: Lawrence observes a man at the inn in Nuoro playing a game with his dog, counting to “three” before allowing the dog to eat the piece of bread, highlighting the man’s obsession with order and control.
- The Risveglio Inn: Lawrence provides a vivid and scathing description of the inn in Sorgono, highlighting its dirtiness, lack of amenities, and poor food.
- The Bus-Driver: Lawrence describes the bus-driver, a “young man who looked tired round his blue eyes,” highlighting his weariness and his dignity as a man in control of a machine.
- The Girovago: Lawrence portrays the traveling peddler as a charismatic and impudent figure who sells “saints and youngsters.”
- The Marionette Show: Lawrence vividly describes the marionette show in Palermo, the “wonderful, glittering gold armour” of the knights, the “terrible” dragon, and the “ghastly old witch” who rules the stage.
Conclusion:
“Sea and Sardinia” is more than a travelogue; it is a thoughtful meditation on the human condition in a time of upheaval and change. Lawrence’s journey offers a unique perspective on Sardinia, its rugged beauty, its resilient people, and the clash between tradition and modernity. His observations reveal the power of place, the enduring impact of history, and the complexities of social change. He paints a vivid picture of a world on the cusp of transformation, reflecting on the human desire for freedom, the challenges of social inequality, and the enduring allure of the past. Lawrence’s journey through the island is a journey into the heart of the human experience, reminding us of the importance of observation, the power of individual perspective, and the enduring struggle to find meaning in a world in flux.