Overview:
This 1867 guide, written by the 19th-century hair-work expert Mark Campbell, provides a comprehensive look at the art of hair work, covering braiding, weaving, hair dressing, and hair jewelry creation. The book is filled with detailed instructions, diagrams, and images, offering readers a clear and practical guide to mastering these skills.
The first part of the book focuses on intricate braiding techniques, featuring numerous patterns and step-by-step instructions for creating various styles of chains, braids, and rings. Campbell guides readers through the process of preparing the hair, adjusting bobbins, using weights, and utilizing different molds. The text also includes illustrations of the tools required for braiding, such as braiding tables, bobbins, weights, and molds.
The latter part of the book delves into hair dressing and the hair trade, highlighting the history and significance of human hair as a commodity. Campbell discusses the trade’s practices, including sourcing, processing, and pricing of hair. He also emphasizes the growing demand for hair work, specifically wigs, switches, and hair jewelry, highlighting the artistry and value of these items.
Key Findings:
- The Art of Hair Work Was Highly Valued and Demanded: Campbell highlights the burgeoning hair trade and the immense value placed on long, fine hair. He emphasizes the importance of Parisian hair-work as a global standard and the growing popularity of hair goods in the United States.
- Hair Work Was an Art Form: The book showcases the beauty and artistry of hair work, demonstrating the intricate patterns and designs created through braiding and weaving. It also emphasizes the creativity and skill required to make hair jewelry and ornaments.
- Hair Was A Commodity: The text sheds light on the complex business of hair trade, detailing the sourcing, processing, and pricing of hair from various regions in Europe. The price range for hair was surprisingly vast, determined by its color, length, and texture.
- Hair Work Was a Practical Skill: This guide equips readers with the knowledge and tools to create their own hair ornaments, dress their hair in various styles, and even embark on a career in the hair-work industry.
Learning:
- Braiding Techniques: Readers will learn a wide range of braiding techniques, covering intricate patterns and variations. This includes chain braids, reverse braids, snake braids, and more complex designs.
- Hair Preparation and Tools: The text outlines the essential steps for preparing hair for braiding, including combing, tying, and adjusting bobbins. Readers will also become familiar with the specialized tools used in hair-work, such as braiding tables, bobbins, weights, and molds.
- Hair Dressing and Styling: The book offers guidance on different hairdressing techniques, showcasing various styles of head-dresses, chignons, puffs, and coils. These techniques can be adapted to create both simple and elaborate hairstyles.
- Hair Trade and Industry: Readers will gain insight into the global hair trade, exploring its history, practices, and the factors that influence the value of human hair. This information provides context for understanding the demand for hair goods and the evolution of hair-work as a profession.
Historical Context:
This guide was written in 1867, during a time of significant social and technological change. The United States was in the midst of rapid industrialization, experiencing an explosion of consumer goods and a burgeoning fashion industry. The increasing demand for hair ornaments and hairdressing services reflected the growing emphasis on personal style and beauty during this period.
Facts:
- Hair is a Commodity: Human hair is bought and sold as a valuable commodity, with prices ranging from $15 to $200 per pound.
- Hair Quality Varies: Hair from France and Italy is considered the best, being finer, more even in color, and glossier than hair from other regions.
- Length is Key: The value of hair is primarily determined by its length.
- White Hair is Rare and Valuable: White hair is often picked from gray hair, with prices reaching $200 per pound due to its scarcity.
- Hair is Thoroughly Cleaned: Hair is washed, scoured, and cleansed, removing all impurities to ensure a healthy and hygienic product.
- Hair is Versatile: Human hair can be used to make a variety of items, including switches, curls, plaits, fronts, wigs, chignons, and hair jewelry.
- Hair Jewelry is Durable: Hair jewelry, when gold-mounted, is as durable as all-gold jewelry.
- Hair Can Change Color: Some individuals experience sudden changes in hair color due to grief, fright, or exposure to certain metals like copper.
- False Hair is Ancient: Wearing false hair dates back centuries, with ancient Greek and Roman women using it to enhance their hairstyles.
- Powdering Hair is Also Ancient: Powdering hair was a common practice among both men and women in ancient times.
- Hair Powder Consumption Was High: The British military in the 18th century consumed vast amounts of flour for powdering their hair, highlighting the importance of this trend.
- Ancient Greeks Preferred Long Hair: Long hair was considered more becoming in ancient Greece, while Egyptians shaved their heads and wore wigs.
- Hair Was Dedicated to Gods: Ancient cultures considered a fine head of hair desirable and often dedicated it to gods as a symbol of gratitude or offering.
- Hair Style Reflected Social Status: Different styles and lengths of hair were used to denote the social status and wealth of individuals in ancient cultures.
- Hair is Indestructible: Due to its low water content and presence of manganese, iron, and calcium, hair is incredibly durable and can survive for centuries.
- Hair Can Grow After Death: There are documented cases of hair continuing to grow for a short period after death.
- Ancient Romans Wore Wigs: Roman women, particularly those who shaved their heads, wore wigs made from hair obtained from German slaves.
- Hair Is a Natural Ornament and Covering: Human hair serves both as a natural ornament and a protective covering for the head.
- Hair Work is Profitable: The guide suggests that learning hair-work techniques can be a lucrative and profitable endeavor.
Statistics:
- 150,000-200,000 pounds of hair imported to the United States in 1859-1860: This statistic highlights the growing demand for hair goods in the United States, especially from Europe.
- Hair imports tripled since 1859-1860: This demonstrates the significant increase in demand for human hair within the United States.
- $15-$200 price range for hair per pound: This statistic reveals the vast disparity in hair prices, highlighting the impact of color, length, and texture on value.
- $400 offered for half a pound of 70-inch hair: This extraordinary price demonstrates the high value placed on extremely long and rare hair.
- Many hundreds of pounds of hair must be sorted for one pound of pure white: This illustrates the labor-intensive process of obtaining high-quality white hair and explains its high price.
- 250,000 British soldiers using a pound of flour per week for hair powder: This staggering number showcases the widespread use of hair powder during the 18th century.
Terms:
- Bobbins: Small, cylindrical objects used to hold strands of hair during braiding.
- Weights: Heavy objects used to balance the bobbins and draw the braid through the braiding table.
- Molds: Forms used to shape and secure braids while they are being boiled and dried.
- Switch: A long, single piece of hair used to lengthen or add volume to hairstyles.
- Curls: Hair strands that are curled or coiled, often used for adding texture or detail to hairstyles.
- Waterfall: A hairstyle where a section of hair is braided or woven to create a cascading effect.
- Bow: A hairstyle where a section of hair is folded or tied to create a bow-like shape.
- Puffs: Round, voluminous sections of hair created by rolling or twisting strands.
- Chignon: A hairstyle where hair is gathered and tied at the back of the neck.
- Diadem: A decorative band worn across the forehead, often used to accentuate hairstyles.
Examples:
- Promenade Head-Dress: This hairstyle features a chignon at the back, two braids placed as a diadem, and hair combed back from the temples.
- Soiree Head-Dress: This elegant evening hairstyle features curled hair at the back, a diadem plait, and hair combed back from the temples, twisted, and pinned under the curls.
- Bracelet Braid: A bracelet made from multiple small braids sewn together, then plaited or twisted to create a decorative band.
- Acorn Braid: A braid designed to resemble an acorn, with a bottom section that covers the base and a top section that forms the bur.
- Empress Tight Braid: A braid made with alternating strands of white and black hair, creating a striking visual effect.
- Scotch Plaid Braid: A braid featuring a traditional plaid pattern, achieved by using strands of white, black, and red hair.
Conclusion:
This 1867 guide on “Self-Instructor in the Art of Hair Work” offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of hair-work, showcasing the intricate braiding techniques, hair-dressing styles, and the thriving trade in human hair. Readers learn not only practical skills but also gain valuable insights into the history, practices, and cultural significance of hair. From intricate braids to elegant hair ornaments, this guide reveals the artistry and value of hair work, demonstrating how this craft has endured throughout time. It is a testament to the enduring appeal of human hair as a symbol of beauty, expression, and personal style.