The Art of Needlework, From the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed. Informative Summary

Overview:

This 1841 book, written by an anonymous authoress and edited by the Countess of Wilton, delves into the history of needlework as a craft and a social phenomenon. From Eve’s first attempts at clothing with fig leaves, the book explores the evolution of needlework across various civilizations and time periods. It highlights the significant role of needlework in Jewish rituals, Egyptian culture, and Roman society, emphasizing its use in adornment, religious practices, and even warfare. The book then traces the continued relevance of needlework throughout the Dark Ages, showcasing its prominent place in monasteries and nunneries. It also examines the creation of the Bayeux Tapestry, a detailed record of the Norman Conquest, and the influence of needlework in the chivalric age, where it was used to adorn knights and their steeds, as well as to symbolize love and loyalty.

The book concludes with a discussion of the rise of tapestry weaving, especially in Flanders, France, and England, and the development of the Gobelins manufactory in France. The author examines the use of needlework in book binding and explores the evolution of various styles of embroidery, from the intricate designs of the East to the precision of Berlin patterns. The text also includes insightful accounts of royal ladies and their fondness for needlework, underscoring its presence in courtly life across different historical periods.

Key Findings:

Universal Importance: Needlework has always been essential to human life, providing both practical and decorative functions across all cultures and time periods.
Historical Significance: Needlework served as a testament to social status, religious beliefs, and even national pride.
Gendered Craft: Historically, needlework has been largely associated with women, showcasing their skills, creativity, and ingenuity.
Evolutionary Art: From primitive tools to sophisticated machinery, needlework has continuously adapted and developed in its techniques and materials.
Social Significance: The act of needlework has always held social and cultural significance, reflecting changing trends and fashions, as well as symbolizing values like love, loyalty, and faith.

Learning:

The Evolution of Needlework: The reader learns about the different stages of needlework, from its humble beginnings with thorns and fish bones to the complex techniques of embroidery and tapestry.
Needlework and Culture: The reader gains a deeper understanding of how needlework has been used across various civilizations to express religious beliefs, social hierarchy, and national identity.
The Value of Needlework: The reader discovers the historical significance of needlework as a craft and as a form of artistic expression, appreciating its value not just for its utilitarian purpose but also as a testament to human creativity and ingenuity.

Historical Context:

The book provides a glimpse into the social, cultural, and technological landscapes of different periods. Readers encounter the Jewish people in the wilderness, the luxurious Egyptian courts, the turbulent Roman Empire, the Dark Ages marked by monasteries and nunneries, the chivalric age, and the reign of Queen Elizabeth, offering a historical context for the evolution of needlework.

Facts:

Eve’s First Needlework: Eve used fig leaves to make aprons after she and Adam ate from the forbidden fruit.
Joseph’s Coat of Many Colors: Joseph’s colorful coat, a gift from his father Jacob, was likely a symbol of his father’s love and favor, setting him apart from his brothers.
Religious Significance of Needlework: Needlework was used in the construction of the Tabernacle, the portable sanctuary of the Israelites in the wilderness, highlighting its significance in Jewish religious practice.
Egyptian Skill in Linen: Egyptian women were known for their mastery in spinning and weaving linen, producing fabrics so fine they were called “woven air.”
Golden Thread in Egyptian Embroidery: The Egyptians used solid gold, beaten into fine threads, to embroider their garments and objects, showcasing their advanced metalworking skills.
Role of Needlework in Egyptian Dress: The dress of Egyptian women of rank was often made of linen and embellished with elaborate needlework, showcasing their mastery in various embroidery techniques.
Needlework for Deities: The Egyptians clothed their deities in richly embroidered vestments, a practice that reflected their religious beliefs and the importance of ceremony.
Gifts of Embroidered Garments: Throughout history, beautifully embroidered garments were common gifts, symbolizing respect, friendship, and social status.
Needlework in the Dark Ages: Monasteries and nunneries preserved the art of embroidery during the Dark Ages, using it to create rich and ornate vestments for the church.
Opus Anglicum: English needlework, known as Opus Anglicum, was highly prized throughout Europe for its quality and intricate designs.
The Bayeux Tapestry: The Bayeux Tapestry, a detailed record of the Norman Conquest, is considered a significant historical document, as well as a testament to the needlework skills of Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror.
Hawks and Chivalry: Hawks were highly prized symbols of nobility, with specific rules governing their ownership and care.
Drinking Horns: Drinking horns were used for a variety of purposes, including investiture, hunting, and summoning people, and were often embellished with silver or gold.
Embroidered Scarves and Pennons: Scarves and pennons were symbols of love, loyalty, and chivalry, often embroidered by ladies for their favored knights.
King Ryence’s Mantle: King Ryence’s mantle, made of rich scarlet and bordered with the beards of kings, exemplified the extreme forms of mockery and humiliation prevalent in the chivalric age.
Tapestry as Wall Decoration: Tapestries, both needlework and woven, adorned the walls of castles, palaces, and noble mansions, adding a sense of grandeur and comfort to these spaces.
Arras Tapestries: The town of Arras in Flanders became famous for its tapestry weaving, eventually making the term “arras” synonymous with tapestry itself.
Gobelins Manufactory: The Gobelins manufactory in France, established under the patronage of Louis XIV, became renowned for its exquisite tapestry works.
Painted Cloths: Painted cloths, a hybrid form of tapestry and wall painting, gained popularity in the 16th century, offering a different approach to interior decoration.
The Value of Silk: Silk was a highly prized and expensive fabric, considered a symbol of wealth and luxury.
The “Black Breeches”: The invention of “black breeches” marked a significant shift in male fashion, signaling a move towards a simpler and more practical style of clothing.
Fashion as a Tyrannical Force: Fashion, often driven by caprice and fueled by social aspirations, wielded immense influence over clothing styles, shaping both men’s and women’s attire.
Sumptuary Laws: Many attempts were made to regulate clothing styles and expenses through sumptuary laws, but these were often difficult to enforce due to the influence of fashion trends and the inherent desire for distinction.
The “Ruff”: The ruff, a large and elaborate neckwear, reached a peak of popularity during Queen Elizabeth’s reign, showcasing the extravagant fashion trends of the time.
Farthingales: Farthingales, large hoop-shaped skirts, were adopted by women in the 16th century, mirroring the extravagant styles of men’s breeches, which were stuffed with various materials.
Knitted Silk Stockings: Knitted silk stockings, a novelty introduced to England in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, quickly became a symbol of fashion and status.
The Importance of Furs: Furs were highly valued for their warmth and luxury, often serving as gifts, ransom payments, and markers of social status.
The “Field of the Cloth of Gold”: This extravagant meeting between Henry VIII of England and Francis I of France showcased the boundless wealth and luxurious tastes of the era, with needlework playing a significant role in the elaborate displays of fashion and decor.
Tapestry of the Spanish Armada: This series of ten tapestries, commissioned by Henry VIII, commemorated the defeat of the Spanish Armada, depicting the various stages of the battle and showcasing the advanced naval artistry of the time.
The Needle as a Symbol of Feminine Skill: Throughout the book, the needle is consistently presented as a symbol of women’s creativity, industry, and skill, reflecting its crucial role in society and its inherent connection with the feminine.
The Importance of Plain Sewing: The book concludes by advocating for the continued importance of teaching plain sewing skills to girls of all backgrounds, recognizing its essential role in the practical needs and well-being of women in all classes.

Statistics:

4 women: According to Aristotle, Nature only formed women when she could not carry on the world without them.
100 suits, 200 shirts, 500 turbans: Bokteri, a ninth century poet, owned a substantial wardrobe of clothes upon his death.
5000 suits: Lucullus, a Roman general known for his extravagant lifestyle, owned 5000 suits of clothes.
365 fibres: The linen corslet presented by Amasis, king of Egypt, to the Rhodians was made of threads each composed of 365 fibres.
360 threads: Another linen corslet, presented to the Lacedemonians, was made of threads composed of 360 other threads.
1 talent daily: Mœris, an Egyptian king, provided his queen with a daily dowry of 1 talent, equivalent to over £70,700 a year.
3 years: In the Dark Ages, nuns would often spend three years creating a single ornate garment.
5000 florenes: In later centuries, the Archbishop of Canterbury’s pall was sold for 5000 florenes, highlighting the value placed on these religious garments.
5000 quintals: Alexander captured 5000 quintals of Hermione purple, the finest purple dye in the world, during his conquest of Susa.
100 crowns a pound: Hermione purple was sold at a price of 100 crowns a pound, demonstrating its exorbitant cost.
15 acres: Guy of Warwick, a legendary English hero, is said to have slain so many Saracens that their corpses covered 15 acres of land.
4000 horsemen: Antar’s tent, described in a Bedouin romance, was so large that 4000 horsemen could skirmish under its awning.
40 camels: The same tent required 40 camels to transport it.
10,000 soldiers: Marco Polo describes a tent that could accommodate 10,000 soldiers without incommoding the nobles.
160,000 men: The Caliph Moctadi’s army consisted of 160,000 men, reflecting the scale of military power in the 9th and 10th centuries.
38,000 tapestries: Moctadi’s palace was adorned with 38,000 pieces of tapestry, a testament to the opulence of the period.
12,500 tapestries: Of the 38,000 tapestries in Moctadi’s palace, 12,500 were of silk embroidered with gold.
22,000 carpets: The palace also contained 22,000 carpets, adding to its luxurious decor.
70,000 crowns: The tapestry sets woven from Raphael’s cartoons cost 70,000 crowns, a staggering sum for the period.
1300 crowns: The remaining cartoons, after one was destroyed, were repurchased for 1300 crowns.
1000l.: A suit of eight tapestries representing the History of Abraham at Hampton Court was appraised at 1000l.
3000l.: The Spanish ambassador purchased the tapestries from Raphael’s cartoons for 3000l.
30,000 marks: King Richard II owned a coat that cost 30,000 marks, highlighting the extravagance in dress among the nobility.
52 suits: Sir John Arundel owned 52 suits of cloth of gold tissue.
3 shillings: William Rufus, the English king, was outraged when he learned that a new pair of boots cost only 3 shillings.
1000 marks: Richard I offered a fur mantle worth 1000 marks to St. Hugh, bishop of Lincoln, in exchange for his installation into the see of Lincoln.
1500l.: Robert Bloet, Bishop of Lincoln, gifted Henry I a cloak lined with black sables worth 1500l.
1000 marks: The counterpane for the master’s bed in the Elizabethan era could cost as much as 1000 marks.
10l.: A single shirt could cost 10l. during Elizabeth’s reign, given the lavish embroidery and ornamentation.
4-10 pounds: Embroidered boots in Elizabeth’s time could cost between 4 and 10 pounds.
1900 crowns: Gabrielle d’Estrées, a mistress of King Henry IV, paid 1900 crowns for the embroidery on a handkerchief.
80,000 pounds: The Duke of Buckingham owned a suit of white velvet set with diamonds worth 80,000 pounds.
15,000-20,000 francs: Josephine, Empress of France, owned shawls worth 15,000-20,000 francs.
1,500 hands: Pin factories in Gloucestershire, established in 1626, employed 1,500 hands.
£20,000: Pin factories in Gloucestershire produced pins worth £20,000 annually.
14,000: By 1840, Berlin publishers had produced over 14,000 copper-plate designs for needlework.
1200: Over 1200 people, mostly women, were employed to color Berlin needlework patterns.
3000 guineas: Miss Linwood was offered 3000 guineas for her needlework rendition of Carlo Dolci’s “Salvator Mundi.”
7000: The Caliph Moctadi had 7000 eunuchs in his service, demonstrating the scale of his court.
700: The Caliph Moctadi had 700 porters in his service, reflecting the size and complexity of his palace.

Terms:

Opus Anglicum: A term referring to English needlework, which was highly regarded throughout Europe.
Blatta: A type of insect that produced a rich crimson dye, widely used in ecclesiastical garments and other fabrics.
Vair: A type of fur, often used as a lining for garments, especially for those of high rank.
Sable: A type of black fur, highly prized for its luxury and beauty.
Cracowes: Long-toed shoes, a popular fashion trend in the 14th century, often embellished with chains that were attached to the waist.
Bonnet à la Syrienne: A tall, horn-shaped bonnet, a fashionable headwear among French ladies in the 15th century.
Hennin: A type of tall, conical hat worn by French ladies in the 15th century.
Point device: A type of patterned lace, worked with the needle, that later became a term for anything exceptionally precise or finicky.
Arras: A type of tapestry, originally from Arras, Flanders, which later became synonymous with all types of tapestry.
Perdah: A type of embroidered hanging, often used to decorate the entrances of tents, especially among people of rank in the East.

Examples:

Joseph’s Coat of Many Colors: A vivid example of the significance of needlework as a symbol of love and favor, given by Jacob to his son Joseph.
The Bayeux Tapestry: A remarkable example of a tapestry, worked by Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror, serving as a detailed historical record of the Norman Conquest.
King Ryence’s Mantle: A striking example of the use of needlework for mockery and humiliation, with the mantle bordered with the beards of defeated kings.
The Tapestry of St. Mary’s Hall, Coventry: This tapestry depicts Henry VI and Margaret of Anjou, showcasing the use of needlework in royal portraiture.
Queen Joan D’Albert’s “Prisons Opened” Tapestry: A testament to the use of needlework to express religious and political beliefs, with the tapestry depicting biblical stories of liberation and freedom.
The Tapestry of the Spanish Armada: A magnificent series of tapestries, commissioned by Henry VIII, that commemorate the defeat of the Spanish Armada, showcasing the power of needlework in national commemoration.
The Embroidery of the Empress Josephine: A testament to the continued popularity of needlework among royalty, with Josephine creating tapestries and lint for the needy during her time at Malmaison.
Queen Adelaide’s Needlework: A contemporary example of the use of needlework for charitable purposes, with Queen Adelaide contributing her needlework to various bazaars.
Miss Linwood’s Needlework Paintings: An example of the remarkable technical skill and artistic talent displayed in modern needlework.
The Berlin Patterns: An illustration of the widespread popularity of Berlin patterns in the early 19th century, showcasing the development of standardized embroidery designs.

Conclusion:

This comprehensive historical account of needlework offers valuable insights into the evolution of this craft across time and cultures. From its primitive beginnings to its sophisticated forms, needlework has always served as a testament to human ingenuity and creativity, reflecting social status, religious beliefs, and personal values. Through detailed descriptions of its use in adornment, religious practices, and even warfare, the book underscores the multifaceted significance of needlework throughout history. The author also celebrates the dedication and skill of needlewomen, highlighting their role in shaping fashion, adorning royalty, and preserving cultural heritage.

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