The Ascent of the Matterhorn Informative Summary

Overview:

This book tells the story of Edward Whymper’s attempts to climb the Matterhorn, one of the most challenging peaks in the Alps. Whymper, an English mountaineer, was driven by the mountain’s sheer inaccessibility and grandeur, and he spent years making repeated attempts, each time facing dangerous conditions, treacherous terrain, and setbacks from unwilling guides.

The book offers a detailed account of his struggles and triumphs, including his first ascents of Mont Pelvoux and the Pointe des Ecrins, as well as his encounters with famous mountaineers like Professor Tyndall and John Tyndall. It also highlights the importance of preparation, skill, and teamwork in mountaineering, emphasizing the dangers of carelessness and the need for caution in the face of the unpredictable alpine environment.

Key Findings:

The Matterhorn was the last great Alpine peak to be conquered, due to its formidable appearance and reputation for inaccessibility.
The south-west ridge, the most frequently attempted route, proved treacherous due to the outward dip of the rock strata.
Whymper’s persistent belief that the Matterhorn could be climbed fueled his numerous attempts, eventually leading to the first successful ascent.
The ascent of the Matterhorn was a remarkable feat of mountaineering skill, highlighting the importance of teamwork, careful planning, and the right equipment.
The tragedy that occurred during the descent, resulting in the death of four climbers, tragically underscores the inherent dangers of mountaineering.

Learning:

Mountaineering is a demanding and dangerous sport that requires careful planning, exceptional skill, and appropriate equipment. Whymper’s repeated attempts and the details of his preparation highlight the importance of having the right gear, understanding the terrain, and choosing experienced guides.
The alpine environment is unpredictable and can change rapidly, requiring mountaineers to be adaptable and cautious. Whymper’s encounters with storms, avalanches, and treacherous snow conditions demonstrate the importance of being prepared for unexpected challenges and making sound judgments in high-risk situations.
The importance of teamwork and collaboration in mountaineering: Whymper’s success was dependent on the skills of his guides and the shared responsibility of the group. The tragic accident during the descent underscores the vulnerability of even experienced climbers when working alone.
The historical context of mountaineering and the evolving understanding of the Alps: The book offers insight into the early days of mountaineering, showing the evolution of techniques and the shift from a focus on conquering peaks to a greater appreciation for the alpine environment.

Historical Context:

The book was written in 1880, a time when mountaineering was still a relatively new and challenging sport. The Matterhorn was seen as a symbol of the untamed wilderness, and its conquest represented a significant achievement in the world of mountaineering. The book reflects a period of exploration and discovery, with climbers pushing the limits of human endurance and challenging the perceived boundaries of what was possible.

Facts:

The Matterhorn is a nearly 15,000-foot peak rising abruptly from surrounding glaciers. Its steep, almost vertical cliffs contribute to its formidable appearance.
The Matterhorn’s rock strata dip towards the east, making the eastern face a natural staircase. This discovery was key to Whymper’s eventual success in climbing the mountain.
The south-west ridge, the most commonly attempted route, proved treacherous due to the outward dip of the rock strata. This led to dangerous overhangs and loose debris.
The Matterhorn is often subject to sudden changes in weather, including storms, snow, and hail. This unpredictable environment contributed significantly to the difficulty of the ascent.
The Matterhorn was the last great Alpine peak to remain unclimbed. Its perceived inaccessibility and formidable appearance made it a particularly daunting challenge.
Jean-Antoine Carrel was the only guide who consistently believed in the Matterhorn’s climbability. His persistence and skill were crucial to the successful ascent.
Whymper’s first ascent of the Matterhorn was a historic moment in mountaineering. It was the first successful ascent of the peak, proving that what was once considered impossible could be achieved.
The tragedy during the descent involved four climbers, including Whymper’s guide Michel Croz. This tragic event underscores the inherent risks of mountaineering, even for experienced climbers.
Whymper was the first to climb Mont Pelvoux, a mountain considered the highest in France. He achieved this feat in 1861 with his friend Macdonald and the guide Jean Reynaud.
Whymper’s first ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins, another high peak in France, was also a notable achievement. This climb involved challenging terrain, inclement weather, and an arduous descent.
The Pointe des Ecrins is a three-sided pyramid with a steep, glassy face and sharp, jagged edges. Its challenging nature made it a formidable obstacle for climbers.
The Meije, a mountain in Dauphiné, is known for its jagged ridges, torrential glaciers, and tremendous precipices. It was the last major Alpine peak to be climbed.
Whymper and his companions discovered the Brèche de la Meije, a previously unknown pass between the Meije and the Rateau. This pass offered a shortcut across the Dauphiné Alps.
The Vallon des Etançons, a valley located south of the Brèche de la Meije, is a desolate and difficult place to traverse. It is covered with debris, lacks any form of life, and presents challenges for hikers.
The Dent Blanche is a mountain considered one of the most difficult in the Alps. Its steep, icy slopes and exposed ridges make it a daunting climb.
The Mont Dolent, located at the junction of three ridges, offers a stunning panoramic view of the surrounding mountains. It is a relatively easy climb, offering a contrasting experience to the more challenging peaks in the region.
The Aiguille de Trélatête, a towering peak, offers a magnificent view of the western face of Mont Blanc. Its ascent was a challenge for Whymper and his team, especially due to the prevailing mist.
The Aiguille d’Argentière, a prominent peak, was a formidable challenge for Whymper and his team. They faced strong winds, steep slopes, and a concealed cavern, making it an exceptionally difficult climb.
The Col du Géant, a pass across the main ridge of Mont Blanc, was the easiest and quickest route from Chamounix to Courmayeur before the discovery of the Col de Talèfre.
The Col de Triolet, a difficult pass, offered a shorter route between Chamounix and the St. Bernard. It was also a notable route for its challenging glacier crossings and challenging terrain.

Statistics:

The Matterhorn is nearly 15,000 feet high, rising abruptly 5,000 feet above surrounding glaciers.
Whymper’s tent platform, constructed on the south-west ridge, was about 12,550 feet above sea level.
Whymper’s highest point alone on the Matterhorn was about 13,400 feet, surpassing previous attempts.
Professor Tyndall’s party reached 13,970 feet on the Matterhorn before turning back in 1862.
The Col de Triolet, the pass Whymper crossed to reach Prè du Bar, is 12,162 feet high.
The summit of Mont Dolent, a challenging but relatively easy climb, is about 12,566 feet above sea level.
The Grand Cornier, a high peak ascended by Whymper, is 13,022 feet high.
The Dent Blanche, considered one of the most difficult climbs in the Alps, is 14,318 feet high.
The Grandes Jorasses, another prominent peak, is about 13,700 feet high.
The Aiguille Verte, a challenging peak conquered by Whymper and Reilly, is about 13,540 feet high.
The summit of the Brèche de la Meije, a pass Whymper and his companions crossed, is 11,054 feet above sea level.
The Col de Pilatte, the highest pass in Dauphiné, is about 11,300 feet above sea level.
Whymper’s tent, a portable design, weighed about 23 pounds.
The glacier above La Grave, which Whymper and his companions crossed, was about 6,500 feet high.
The snow couloir Whymper and his companions ascended on the Col de Pilatte had an inclination of 54 degrees.
Whymper’s highest point on the Pointe des Ecrins was 13,462 feet above sea level.
The final peak of the Pointe des Ecrins, the highest summit in France, is about 525 feet high.
The Col des Ecrins, a pass Whymper crossed on his way to the Pointe des Ecrins, is 11,000 feet high.
The Grand Tournalin, a peak ascended by Whymper and Carrel, is 11,155 feet above sea level.
Whymper’s descent from the Dent Blanche, which involved treacherous slopes and a near avalanche, lasted 17 hours.

Terms:

Arête: A sharp, narrow ridge on a mountain.
Bergschrund: A large crevasse that separates a glacier from a mountain wall.
Cabane: A mountain hut used by climbers as shelter.
Couloir: A gully or ravine filled with snow or ice.
Crête: A ridge or crest on a mountain.
Gîte: Shelter or a place to camp.
Glacier: A large mass of ice that moves slowly over land.
Moraine: A pile of debris carried and deposited by a glacier.
Névé: The granular snow that forms the upper part of a glacier.
Séracs: Large, broken blocks of ice on a glacier.

Examples:

Whymper’s first scramble on the Matterhorn, where he nearly fell into a crevasse. This incident demonstrates his early encounters with the mountain’s dangers and his growing understanding of the challenges ahead.
Whymper’s ascent of Mont Pelvoux, marked by his miscommunication with the local guide Sémiond. This highlights the importance of clear communication and the potential for misunderstandings when working with inexperienced guides.
Whymper’s escape from a fall on the Matterhorn, where he tumbled nearly 200 feet down a gully. This dramatic event underscores the perilous nature of mountaineering and the importance of careful footwork.
Whymper’s first ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins, where he and his team were nearly caught in an avalanche. This incident illustrates the importance of understanding snow conditions and the potential hazards of high-altitude climbs.
The near-fatal accident on the Dent Blanche, where Whymper and his team were caught in a snowstorm and narrowly escaped frostbite. This harrowing event highlights the unpredictable nature of the alpine environment and the need for caution.
The discovery of the Col de Talèfre, a previously unknown pass across the Mont Blanc range. This achievement demonstrates Whymper’s skills in route-finding and the thrill of exploring uncharted territory.
The encounter with the “hunchback” guide, Luc Meynet, on the Matterhorn. This interaction highlights the often-unsung contributions of local guides and the importance of human connections during challenging journeys.
Whymper’s use of his improvised “claw” and rope ring during his solo ascent of the Matterhorn. This demonstrates his resourcefulness and ingenuity in overcoming technical difficulties.
The tragic accident during the descent of the Matterhorn, where Whymper and his team lost four members, including Croz. This devastating event serves as a powerful reminder of the risks involved in mountaineering and the importance of safety.
The discovery of a new route up the Matterhorn from the Z’Mutt Glacier. This signifies the ongoing exploration of the mountain and the constant search for new challenges in the world of mountaineering.

Conclusion:

“The Ascent of the Matterhorn” is a gripping testament to the human spirit’s determination to conquer the natural world. Whymper’s story is a captivating mix of adventure, danger, and personal growth. His relentless pursuit of the Matterhorn’s summit, despite numerous setbacks and the tragic loss of life during the descent, ultimately led to a historic achievement in the world of mountaineering. The book offers valuable lessons about the importance of preparation, skill, teamwork, and the inherent dangers of the alpine environment. It also provides a fascinating glimpse into the early days of mountaineering and the evolving understanding of the Alps. However, the book serves as a stark reminder that even the most experienced climbers can be humbled by nature’s power, and that the pursuit of adventure comes with a significant price.

Learn more