Overview:
This 1844 guide to needlework, knitting, netting, and crochet offers a comprehensive guide for ladies seeking to master these practical and decorative skills. The text emphasizes the importance of needlework for both individual and domestic well-being, highlighting the historical context of these crafts and their connection to women’s roles in society.
The book provides detailed instructions for a wide range of garments and household items, including clothing, linens, and decorative pieces. It covers plain and fancy needlework stitches, with explanations of patterns and techniques like embroidery, bead work, and applique. The text also explores different types of knitting, netting, and crochet stitches, offering step-by-step instructions for various projects.
Key Findings:
- Needlework was considered a vital skill for women of all social classes.
- These crafts were seen as a source of personal gratification and moral development.
- The text acknowledges the historical significance of needlework, tracing its origins to ancient Egypt and its importance in European cultures.
- The book stresses the importance of economical use of materials and provides detailed guidance on selecting the best quality for different projects.
- The author encourages readers to develop their own creativity and judgment when choosing patterns and colors.
Learning:
- Needlework Techniques: This book teaches a range of basic and decorative needlework stitches, providing a solid foundation for creating garments, linens, and other household items.
- Knitting, Netting, and Crochet: Readers will learn the fundamental stitches and patterns for these crafts, equipping them to knit hats, mittens, and scarves, or to create netting for purses and bags, and crochet intricate pieces.
- Historical Context: The book offers valuable insights into the historical significance of these crafts, highlighting their evolution from ancient times to the 19th century and their social and cultural relevance.
- Practical Skills for Domestic Life: This text teaches essential skills for managing a household, emphasizing the value of economy, efficiency, and creativity in using these crafts.
Historical Context:
The text was written in 1844, a time of significant social and economic change. The Industrial Revolution was transforming society, and women’s roles were evolving. While the book emphasizes the importance of domestic skills for women, it also acknowledges the changing economic realities and the need for women to be self-sufficient. This context underscores the book’s emphasis on practical knowledge and its encouragement for women to develop their skills for personal and financial gain.
Facts:
- The art of knitting is believed to have originated in Spain, although the Scotch also lay claim to the invention.
- Knitted silk stockings were first worn in England by Henry VIII.
- The stocking frame was invented by William Lee, a Cambridge graduate who had been expelled for marrying against university rules.
- The Bayeux tapestry, detailing the life of Harold, is thought to have been embroidered by Matilda, wife of William the Norman.
- Queen Adelicia, wife of Henry I, Anne, Queen of France, Catherine of Aragon, Lady Jane Grey, Mary Queen of Scots, and Queen Elizabeth all excelled in needlework.
- The much-celebrated Berlin patterns were introduced in 1800, but their popularity grew over the next three decades.
- The Egyptian nets were so fine that one person could carry enough to surround an entire forest.
- Egyptian corslets were made with threads that consisted of hundreds of fibers, demonstrating the advanced skill of their craftspeople.
- The first pair of knitted stockings made in England were created by William Rider, an apprentice, who was inspired by a pair of Italian stockings.
- The art of fancy needlework was practiced by ancient civilizations, including the Babylonians, Egyptians, Persians, Arabians, Greeks, and Romans.
- The Egyptians used flax to create their delicate nets.
- The art of needlework declined after the Reformation but experienced a revival in the early 19th century.
- The use of embroidery as a sign of honor and valor was widespread in the ages of chivalry, with embroidered scarves often presented as gifts.
- The Hon. Mrs. Wingfield, on the estates of Lord de Vesci in Ireland, was known for her charitable work using her knitting skills.
- The practice of netting was a favorite pastime of Queen Charlotte in her later years.
- Queen Clementina, a princess of France, is credited with inventing the “Queen’s Vandyke” stitch.
- The art of needlework reached a high level of perfection in the 19th century, with some creations rivalling oil paintings in their detail and expression.
Statistics:
- The Egyptian nets were so fine that each string was composed of 150 threads.
- Amasis, king of Egypt, presented the Rhodians with a linen corslet with threads consisting of 365 fibers.
- The first knitted stockings in England were presented to the Earl of Pembroke in 1564.
- For a piece of work done in tent stitch with single wool, a skein of wool will cover two and a half square inches.
- In cross stitch, a skein of wool will cover two inches.
- The number of stitches needed to cast on for the first size of stocking is 73, while the sixth size requires 133.
- To form the heel of a stocking, the first and second sizes require 12 turns, while the sixth size needs 20 turns.
- A shawl corner requires 21 stitches to be picked up on one side after completing the corner.
- For a crochet bag, a chain of 150 stitches is needed as a foundation.
- To create a Greek cap in chenille, a chain of six or eight stitches is used as a starting point.
Terms:
- Applique: A decorative technique where fabric pieces are cut and sewn onto a base fabric to create designs.
- Gobelin Stitch: A stitch used in embroidery, particularly for working designs from oil paintings.
- Mosaic Work: A technique using small pieces of material, such as wool or silk, to create a design, resembling a mosaic.
- Tent Stitch: A basic embroidery stitch used for filling in areas or grounding designs.
- Cross Stitch: A popular embroidery stitch used for creating patterns and designs.
- Biroche: A type of knitting pattern, often used for cushions, that uses alternating plain and pearled stitches to create a textured effect.
- Chain Stitch: A stitch used in needlework and knitting to create a chain-like appearance.
- Double Knitting: A knitting technique that creates a double-layered fabric, typically used for warm garments.
- Plain Netting: A basic netting stitch used for creating a mesh fabric.
- Loop Stitch: A netting stitch that creates a loop in the fabric, often used for decorative effects.
Examples:
- Beaufort Star: A beautiful pattern for a center piece of work, created by alternating decreasing and increasing stitches to form squares like diamonds.
- Chess Pattern: A patterned piece of work created by alternating dark and light squares of cross stitch, with the spaces filled in with Irish stitch.
- Dice Pattern: A pattern formed by knitting rows of eight stitches in different shades, with the spaces between them representing the ground.
- German Pattern: A pattern worked in Irish stitch, creating a design that resembles a Gothic column.
- Irish Diamond: A pattern worked in rows, alternating increasing and decreasing stitches to form a diamond shape.
- Russian Pattern: A pattern worked in rows across the canvas, with stitches of varying lengths to create a wave-like effect.
- Victoria Pattern: A pattern that combines different shades of silk and wool to create square shapes, with the spaces between them filled in with long stitch.
- Wave Pattern: A pattern created by knitting rows in Irish stitch, dropping stitches to form a wave-like effect.
- Windsor Pattern: A pattern that uses increasing and decreasing stitches to form diamonds, with the spaces between them filled in with silk or gold thread.
- Pine Apple Stitch: A knitting stitch that creates a pineapple-like design, often used for bags and purses.
Conclusion:
This 1844 Ladies’ Work-Table Book is a treasure trove of knowledge and skills for anyone interested in needlework, knitting, netting, and crochet. The author provides a detailed, practical guide to these crafts, emphasizing the importance of these skills for women in all walks of life. The book offers detailed explanations of stitches, patterns, and techniques, along with valuable historical context and insights into the evolution of these crafts over time. The text also highlights the moral and social significance of needlework, encouraging readers to use these skills to develop their creativity, contribute to their communities, and enrich their lives.