Overview:
This book, published in 1736, was written to combat the “great prejudices” of the time surrounding the quality of beers and ales. The author, an anonymous “Person formerly concerned in a Common Brewhouse at London”, argues that a lack of knowledge and improper techniques have resulted in unwholesome and unpleasant drinks.
He provides a comprehensive guide to brewing, covering everything from choosing the right barley and water to managing fermentation and preventing spoilage. He also highlights the importance of proper hygiene and the dangers of adulterating drinks with harmful ingredients. Throughout the book, he emphasizes the benefits of brewing at home, both in terms of cost savings and control over the quality of the final product.
Key Findings:
- The importance of using high-quality ingredients: The author stresses the need for good barley, clean water, and pure hops for optimal brewing results. He argues that using inferior ingredients will inevitably lead to poor-quality drinks.
- The impact of proper techniques: The author details a variety of brewing methods, emphasizing the importance of accurate measurements, controlled temperatures, and proper fermentation techniques. He critiques common practices, like “beating in the yeast”, as harmful and counterproductive.
- The advantages of home brewing: The author emphasizes the cost savings and control over quality that come with brewing at home. He believes that home brewing can produce drinks that are as good or better than what is available commercially.
Learning:
- Barley and Malt: The book teaches readers how to identify good barley and understand the importance of its proper malting. The author explains the different types of malt (pale, amber, brown) and their unique characteristics and uses in brewing.
- Water Quality: Readers learn how water quality affects the final product, and how to identify and avoid harmful minerals in well water. The author advocates for using soft water, like river or rainwater, when possible.
- Yeast and Fermentation: The author describes the role of yeast in fermentation and the importance of controlled fermentation temperatures. He criticizes the practice of “beating in the yeast” as harmful and exposes the deception of brewers who use this technique to increase the strength of their drinks.
- Hops: The book highlights the importance of hops in preserving drinks, preventing spoilage, and contributing to a smoother, more enjoyable taste. The author details proper hop boiling techniques and the dangers of over-boiling.
- Cellar Management: Readers learn about the impact of cellar temperature and humidity on the aging of beers and ales. The author offers advice for maintaining a proper cellar environment and the importance of minimizing air exposure.
- Cask Hygiene: The author provides detailed instructions on cleaning and sweetening casks. He explains the importance of removing any residual yeast or sediment and the dangers of using unclean vessels.
Historical Context:
The text was written in 1736, a time when England was experiencing a growth in both population and urbanization. This growth led to an increased demand for beer and ale, as well as a proliferation of common brewhouses. At the same time, there was a growing awareness of the potential dangers of adulterated and poorly brewed drinks. This book reflects the emerging concern over the quality of beer and ale and the desire for safer, more enjoyable drinks.
Facts:
- Barley: Barley is considered the best grain for making malt due to its ability to produce fine British liquors like beer and ale.
- Soil and Manure: The type of soil and manure used to grow barley significantly impacts the quality of the malt. For example, barley grown on gravels and chalks tends to be superior to that grown on clays.
- Malt Drying: Pale malt is dried slowly and retains more of its original properties, resulting in a sweeter and more nutritious drink.
- Fuel: Coak is the preferred fuel for drying malt, as it produces a clean, smokeless fire that does not impart any unpleasant flavors to the malt.
- Water Hardness: Hard well waters are often loaded with mineral particles and salts that can negatively affect brewing and potentially lead to health problems.
- Water Quality: Spring waters can vary in quality depending on the minerals they pick up as they flow through the ground.
- River Waters: River waters are generally softer than well waters, especially at a distance from the spring head, as they are mixed with rainwater and exposed to the sun and air.
- Rain Water: Rainwater is a soft, pure diluter, suitable for brewing ales that are not intended for long-term storage.
- Pond Water: The quality of pond water depends on its source, cleanliness, and exposure to air and sunlight.
- Yeast: Yeast is an acid and can be harmful if consumed in large quantities.
- Hop: Hops are a powerful preservative that prevents spoilage and helps break down the viscid parts of malt, making the drink easier to digest.
- Foxing: Foxing is a spoilage condition in malt drinks caused by several factors, including poor hygiene, improper cooling techniques, and bad malts.
- “Beating In” Yeast: The practice of “beating in” yeast is considered harmful, as it increases the acidity of the drink and can lead to health problems.
- Salt and Flour in Ale: Some brewers add salt and flour to their ales to make them appear stronger and more appealing to customers.
- Treacle Beer: The use of treacle or molasses in beer brewing was prohibited due to its potential for adulteration.
- Cask Hygiene: Thorough cleaning and sweetening of casks is essential to prevent spoilage and impart unpleasant flavors to the drink.
- New Casks: New casks require a specific process of seasoning to remove the tannins from the oak and prevent the drink from tasting of wood.
- Wine Casks: Wine casks can be repurposed for storing beer and ale, but care must be taken to ensure that they are properly cleaned and seasoned to avoid any unwanted flavor transfer.
- Bung-holes: Proper bung-hole management is crucial for preserving drinks and preventing them from going flat or stale.
- Strong Beer: Strong beers, while potentially more nourishing for laborers, can be detrimental to the health of sedentary individuals.
- Small Beer: Small beer should not be too thin, as it can be detrimental to laborers, especially during demanding periods like harvest.
- Drink Age: Malt drinks tend to improve with age, as the viscid parts break down, making them easier to digest.
- Drink Fineness: Clearness in malt liquor is desirable, as it indicates a well-crafted drink and contributes to its enjoyment.
Statistics:
- Malt Price: In 1733, barley was selling for 14s per quarter.
- Malt for Stout Beer: One barrel of stout beer is typically made from one quarter of malt.
- Malt for Stitch (Strong Brown Ale): One barrel and a firkin of strong brown ale are typically made from one quarter of malt.
- Malt for Common Brown Ale: One and a half barrels (or more) of common brown ale are typically made from one quarter of malt.
- Malt for Entire Guile Small Beer: Five or six barrels of entire guile small beer are typically made from one quarter of malt.
- Malt for Pale and Amber Ale: One barrel and a firkin of pale or amber ale are typically made from one quarter of malt.
- Stout Beer Price: Stout butt beer was sold for 40s per barrel.
- Stitch (Strong Brown Ale) Price: Stitch was sold for 8d per gallon.
- Common Brown Ale Price: Common brown ale was sold for 16s per barrel.
- Entire Guile Small Beer Price: Entire guile small beer was sold for 7s or 8s per barrel.
- Pale and Amber Ale Price: Pale and amber ale was sold for 1s per gallon.
- Hops for Strong Brown Ale: One pound of hops is sufficient for one hogshead of brown ale.
- Hops for Pale Ale: One pound and a quarter of hops is sufficient for one hogshead of pale ale.
- Hops for October Beer (Brown): Three and a half pounds of hops are recommended for one hogshead of brown October beer.
- Hops for October Beer (Pale): Six pounds of hops are recommended for one hogshead of pale October beer.
- Cost Savings: The author calculated a savings of 11s and 8d when brewing six bushels of malt at home, compared to buying the same amount of beer and ale commercially.
- Grain Value: Six bushels of grains are typically sold for 3d per bushel, adding to the potential savings.
- Excise Tax: The excise tax for beer and ale ranged from 5s per barrel for ale to 18d per barrel for small beer.
Terms:
- Tide: A period of 12 hours used by malsters to measure the steeping time for barley.
- Couch: A square hutch or container used to hold barley during the malting process.
- Score: A measurement used by excise officers to determine the amount of malt produced.
- Chip: The process of barley sprouting during malting.
- Spire: The developing root of the barley during malting.
- Aker-spire: A blade that grows out at the opposite end of the root during malting.
- Hair-cloth: A type of fabric used in malting kilns to support the malt during drying.
- Coak: A type of smokeless fuel made from charred pit coal.
- Culme: A type of smokeless coal mined in Wales.
- Mellilet: A smelly weed that can taint barley and malt.
- Darnel: A type of weed that grows in barley and is known for its intoxicating properties.
- Goods: The spent grain from a mashing process, used for animal feed.
- Entire Guile: A term used to describe a brewing process that uses all fresh malt to create a single batch of beer or ale.
- Foxing: A type of spoilage condition in malt drinks that results in a musty, unpleasant flavor.
- Yeast: A living organism used to ferment beer and ale.
- Lees: The sediment that forms at the bottom of the cask during fermentation.
Examples:
- “Penly October Beer”: The author recounts the famous “October Beer” brewed by Simon Harcourt, Esq. of Penly, which was known for its quality and the generosity of its creator.
- “The Plymouth Brewers”: The author describes the practice of Plymouth brewers adding salt and flour to their ales, which was believed to improve the taste and appearance.
- “The Leighton Buzzard Ale-brewer”: The author tells the story of a woman in Leighton Buzzard who used ivory shavings to fine her ale and produce a long-lasting froth.
- “The Victualler with the Daucus Seed”: The author describes a victualler who used daucus seeds, a carminative, as a cheaper alternative to hops, resulting in a drink with a peach flavor.
- “The North Country Brewers”: The author references the practice of Northern brewers “beating in” the yeast, which he argues is harmful and produces a drink that is too strong and unpleasant.
- “The Coopers’ Method”: The author describes the coopers’ method of cleaning stinking casks by scraping and shaving the inside of the cask.
- “The Traveling Brewer”: The author describes a brewer who used a unique method for carrying beer on a dray, incorporating a funnel with a bowl that vented the cask without losing any liquid.
- “The Bean-flour Bung”: The author discusses a practice of using baked bean flour to prevent beer from fretting or bursting the cask during long journeys.
Conclusion:
This 1736 treatise offers a unique glimpse into the world of brewing during a time of significant change and growing awareness of the importance of quality and hygiene in food production. The author’s advice, grounded in his personal experience, emphasizes the importance of using high-quality ingredients, employing proper techniques, and understanding the role of key elements like hops and yeast. He provides a valuable resource for anyone interested in brewing their own beers and ales, and encourages readers to take control of their drinks and enjoy the benefits of a fine, wholesome, and enjoyable product. The author’s condemnation of harmful practices and his promotion of home brewing reflect a growing demand for better quality and transparency in the brewing industry, and foreshadow the continued evolution of brewing practices in the centuries to come.