Overview:
This book, published in 1890, is a collection of essays by W. G. Steel, a Fellow of the American Geographical Society, detailing his personal experiences exploring some of Oregon’s most iconic mountain peaks and natural wonders. The essays provide historical context, fascinating facts, and vivid descriptions of these landscapes. The book highlights the beauty and grandeur of Crater Lake, the thrill of illuminating Mount Hood with red fire, and the challenges of climbing Mount Rainier. Steel’s writing brings the adventures to life, transporting the reader to these awe-inspiring locations.
Beyond the explorations, Steel delves into the history of the Pacific Northwest, particularly the naming of these mountains and the historical significance of the region for exploration and settlement. He also discusses the role of the Oregon Alpine Club in scientific discovery and the protection of the region’s wildlife and natural resources.
Key Findings:
- The Pacific Northwest’s mountain range is rich in mineral, agricultural, and commercial resources.
- Crater Lake is a breathtaking natural wonder with a depth of nearly 2,000 feet and a unique island, Wizard Island, with its own crater.
- Mount Rainier has a unique feature of steam caverns which can be used as a source of heat in harsh conditions.
- The Oregon Alpine Club plays an important role in scientific exploration and preservation of the region’s natural beauty.
Learning:
- Crater Lake: This essay provides a detailed account of Crater Lake’s origins, its formation as a volcanic caldera, and its unique geological features. It reveals the historical significance of the lake to the Klamath tribe and the superstitions surrounding its deep waters. The reader will learn about the scientific expedition to sound the lake’s depths and the challenging task of launching boats over steep cliffs.
- Mount Hood: The story of illuminating Mount Hood with red fire on the Fourth of July is a tale of adventure, determination, and spectacle. The reader will learn about the challenges of climbing the mountain, the incredible view from its summit, and the technicalities of using red fire for a large-scale illumination.
- Mount Rainier: This essay details the arduous climb to the summit of Mount Rainier and the challenges presented by weather, ice, and crevasses. The reader will gain insights into the unique environment of high-altitude mountaineering and the importance of preparation and planning.
Historical Context:
These essays provide historical context for the exploration and naming of various mountains, rivers, and locations in the Pacific Northwest, including the early explorations of Captain Cook, George Vancouver, Lewis and Clark, and the influence of the Hudson Bay Company. The reader will gain insight into the complex history of the region, from its indigenous inhabitants to the arrival of early European explorers and settlers.
Facts:
- Crater Lake is almost egg-shaped, 7 miles long by 6 miles wide. The lake’s unusual shape is a result of the volcanic caldera that formed the lake basin.
- Crater Lake’s surface is 6,251 feet above sea level. This elevation makes it one of the highest lakes in the United States.
- Wizard Island in Crater Lake is 845 feet high and circular in shape. The island is a remnant of the volcanic activity that created Crater Lake.
- Llao Rock in Crater Lake stands over 2,000 feet high. This imposing rock formation is a prominent landmark on the lake’s western shore.
- The Phantom Ship in Crater Lake is a solitary rock formation resembling a ship at anchor. The rock’s appearance is a result of its unique shape and location in the lake.
- The Klamath Indians considered Crater Lake to be the home of sea-devils called Llaos. This belief is based on the lake’s depth and the mystery surrounding its origin.
- Mount Hood was in a state of eruption in 1846. This volcanic activity contributed to its iconic status as a snow-capped mountain.
- Mount Rainier was an active volcano in 1843. The mountain’s volcanic history is evident in the steam caverns found on its summit.
- The Bitter Root Range is the same as the Cœur d’Alene mountains. This mountain range is located in Montana and Idaho.
- The Barlow Road, built in 1842-1846, was the first pass over the Cascades used by whites. This important road allowed settlers to reach the Willamette Valley.
- The first European woman to reach the Columbia River was Miss Jane Barnes in 1814. Her arrival at Astoria marked a significant moment in the history of the region.
- John McLaughlin established Fort Vancouver in 1825 and introduced livestock, fruit, vegetables, and grain to the region. His contributions to the development of the Northwest were significant.
- The Russians established a fort in California in 1820. Their presence in the region reflected their interest in the fur trade.
- The United States claimed Oregon based on right of discovery, the Louisiana Purchase, prior explorations, and prior settlements. These arguments contributed to the ongoing border dispute between the US and Great Britain.
- The first steamer to visit Oregon was the Beaver from England in 1836. This marked the beginning of steam navigation on the Columbia River.
- Dr. Marcus Whitman made his famous ride to Washington in 1842 to prevent the US government from abandoning Oregon. His efforts were pivotal in securing the region for the US.
- Mount St. Helens was in a state of eruption in 1831 and 1843. The mountain’s volcanic activity highlights the region’s dynamic geology.
Statistics:
- Crater Lake is nearly 2,000 feet deep. The lake’s depth makes it one of the deepest lakes in the United States.
- Mount Rainier is 14,410 feet high. This elevation makes it the highest mountain in Washington state.
- The Barlow Road is over 5,000 feet high. The road’s elevation highlights the challenges of traversing the Cascade Mountains.
- The atmospheric river of heat has a significant impact on the Pacific Northwest. This phenomenon is responsible for the region’s mild climate.
- The first building in Oregon was built by Captain Winship in 1810. This event marked the beginning of permanent settlement in the region.
- The United States and England jointly occupied Oregon for ten years, from 1818 to 1828. This period of shared rule led to the eventual negotiation of the Oregon Treaty.
- Oregon was admitted to the Union in 1859. This event marked the formal establishment of the state.
- The Oregon Alpine Club has over 70 charter members. The club’s popularity reflects the growing interest in exploring and preserving the region’s natural wonders.
Terms:
- Alpine: Relating to high mountains or their flora and fauna.
- Caldera: A large, bowl-shaped volcanic crater, typically formed by the collapse of a volcano after an eruption.
- Crevasse: A deep crack or fissure in a glacier or ice sheet.
- Heliograph: A device for transmitting signals using mirrors to reflect sunlight.
- Stalactites: A formation of calcium carbonate that hangs from the ceiling of a cave.
- Stalagmites: A formation of calcium carbonate that rises from the floor of a cave.
- Volcanic: Relating to or caused by volcanoes.
- Perpetual snow: Snow that persists year-round on mountain peaks due to the cold climate.
- Timberline: The elevation above which trees cannot grow due to the harsh climate.
- Sublime: Inspiring awe or admiration, especially through grandeur or vastness.
Examples:
- Crater Lake: Steel recounts the story of the prospectors who discovered Crater Lake in 1853 and their awe at the scene before them. He also describes the Klamath Indians’ beliefs about the lake and its connection to the Great Spirit.
- Mount Hood: Steel vividly describes the view from the summit of Mount Hood, the incredible panorama of surrounding mountains, and the stunning sunset he witnessed.
- Mount Rainier: Steel narrates his experience climbing Mount Rainier, the challenges of navigating icy terrain, the exhaustion of the climb, and the thrill of reaching the summit. He shares the story of Prof. Ingram’s party leaving a can of corned beef on the summit for future climbers.
- Josephine County Caves: Steel details the exploration of the caves, the challenges of navigating narrow passageways, and the remarkable stalactite and stalagmite formations he encountered.
- The Oregon Alpine Club: The book provides numerous examples of the club’s expeditions, including the sounding of Crater Lake and the illumination of Mount Hood.
Conclusion:
This collection of essays offers a fascinating glimpse into the exploration and discovery of some of Oregon’s most magnificent natural wonders. Through his personal accounts, Steel transports the reader to these awe-inspiring landscapes, highlighting their beauty and grandeur. The essays provide historical context, scientific insights, and a sense of adventure that makes these natural wonders come alive. The reader will gain a deeper appreciation for the Oregon Alpine Club’s role in preserving the region’s unique natural heritage and the importance of exploring and understanding these remarkable landscapes.