Overview:
This 1907 book, Woodwork Joints: How They Are Set Out, How Made and Where Used, is a practical guide for woodworkers of all skill levels. William Fairham, the author, meticulously explains the construction and applications of various woodworking joints. The book includes over 400 illustrations that detail each joint, making it a valuable resource for both beginners and experienced craftsmen.
Fairham begins by discussing the fundamental glued joint, a simple but versatile method used in various forms throughout history. He then delves into more complex joints, such as the halved, bridle, and mortise and tenon, detailing the steps needed to create each joint accurately. Throughout the book, Fairham emphasizes the importance of precision and proper tool usage for achieving strong and durable results.
Key Findings:
- The book provides a thorough understanding of woodworking joints, highlighting the historical context, construction techniques, and practical applications of each joint.
- Fairham’s detailed explanations and illustrations make complex techniques easy to understand and execute.
- The book emphasizes the importance of precision, proper tool usage, and the selection of suitable materials for achieving strong and durable joints.
Learning:
- The Glued Joint: This fundamental joint is incredibly versatile, used in various forms throughout history. The book explains the process of preparing the timber, applying glue, and using clamps to ensure a strong bond.
- The Halved Joint: This simple joint is ideal for constructing frames and brackets. The book outlines the steps involved in marking, cutting, and fitting the joint.
- The Bridle Joint: This joint is often used for connecting internal parts of wooden frames, providing a strong and secure connection. The book explains how to set out the joint and accurately cut the mortise and tenon.
- The Tongued and Grooved Joint: This versatile joint is used for various applications, from flooring boards to cabinet work. The book explains the different types of tongues and grooves, the use of planes and ploughs, and the proper techniques for assembling the joint.
- The Mortise and Tenon Joint: This classic joint is crucial for constructing door and window frames. The book delves into the different tenon types, the process of cutting the mortise, and the various methods of securing the joint.
- The Dowelling Joint: This joint uses wooden or metal pegs to connect timber pieces. The book describes how to make dowels, mark the timber, bore holes, and assemble the joint.
- The Scarf Joint: This joint is used for joining timber pieces end-to-end, creating a smooth and flush surface. The book outlines various scarf joint designs and explains how to choose the most suitable one based on the application and stress.
- The Hinged Joint: This joint allows for movable elements in woodworking. The book explains the different types of hinges and how to install them correctly, emphasizing the importance of proper alignment for smooth operation and preventing “bound” doors.
- Shutting Joints: These joints are used to create airtight and dust-proof enclosures. The book covers various techniques for achieving a tight fit, including rebating, astragal moulding, and the use of hook joints.
- The Dovetail Joint: This strong and decorative joint is essential for constructing drawers and boxes. The book guides readers through the process of marking, cutting, and assembling dovetails, highlighting the importance of precise angles and avoiding undercut joints.
- Puzzle Joints: These joints are not only interesting but also challenging to create. The book provides instructions and illustrations for constructing various puzzle joints, including the Chinese puzzle, the double dovetail puzzle, and the mortising puzzle.
Historical Context:
While not explicitly stated in the book, the text’s publication date of 1907 places it during a period of significant industrial development. This time saw increasing reliance on machinery and mass production in woodworking, although handcrafted techniques were still highly valued. The book reflects this by providing detailed explanations of both traditional hand-tool methods and emerging machine-based techniques.
Facts:
- Glued joints are used in various forms throughout history: Evidence of glued joints can be found in ancient Egyptian woodwork, such as mummy cases.
- Timber shrinks circumferentially: This phenomenon causes wood to curve, especially when the heart side is oriented in one direction. To minimize warping, alternating heart-side orientation or using quartered timber is recommended.
- The halved joint is used for constructing frames and brackets: This simple joint is often used for strengthening frames and shelf brackets, as it prevents diagonal movement or distortion.
- The bridle joint is stronger than the halved joint: It is frequently used for connecting internal parts of wooden frames.
- The tongued and grooved joint is used in various woodworking trades: From flooring boards to cabinet work, this versatile joint offers a strong and secure connection.
- Feather tongues are cut diagonally across the grain: This provides a secure and strong joint but requires accurate planing to fit the groove.
- Cross tongues are stronger than feather tongues: This type of tongue can be used very thin and is particularly strong when glued into position.
- Mortise and tenon joints are secured in various ways: Wedges, dowels, glue, and paint are often used to fasten this joint.
- Stub tenons are often used at the corner of a frame: These tenons are not allowed to run through the stile, avoiding unsightliness on the edge.
- The haunch and haunching prevent lipping in tenon joints: This ensures a smooth and even surface on the face side of the frame.
- The chain mortiser cuts a clean and true mortise: This machine is used for creating rectangular cavities in wood for tenon joints.
- Dowels are generally made from straight-grained beechwood: These dowels are readily available in different sizes and lengths.
- A template can be used to set out dowel positions on irregular shapes: This method ensures accurate placement of dowels even on curved or circular surfaces.
- The scarf joint is used for joining timber pieces in the direction of their length: This creates a flush surface and is often used for structural purposes.
- The fished joint does not reduce the total length of the beams: Fish plates, either wood or metal, are fastened to the sides of the butt-joined beams to create a strong connection.
- Hinges require careful gauging and accurate fitting: Improper hingeing can lead to “bound” doors and other issues.
- The strap hinge is used for narrow margins: This elongated hinge is ideal for folding desks, bagatelle tables, and other pieces with limited space.
- Centre or pivot hinges are used on wardrobe doors: These hinges are typically fixed to the top and bottom of the door, with the flanges let into the cornice and plinth.
- Dovetail joints are used for joining the corners of frames, bracket trusses, and other articles: This joint provides a strong and secure connection, often used for furniture and boxes.
- A blind lap-dovetail joint hides the end grain of the timber: This technique is commonly used for cornices, boxes, and painted furniture.
Statistics:
- The glued joint is so strong that timber will often break before parting at the joint: This highlights the strength of a properly fitted glued joint, especially when using good quality glue.
- The thickness of a tenon should be one-third the thickness of the timber: This rule ensures equal strength on either side of the mortise.
- Dowels should be placed 9-10 inches apart when jointing sideboard tops, dressing table ends, and wardrobe ends: This spacing provides sufficient strength and prevents the joint from becoming too weak.
- The length of dowels should be 7/8 to 1 1/4 inches long: This length provides adequate support and engagement within the mortise.
- The length of a scarf joint should be approximately five times its thickness: This ensures a strong and durable connection for heavy loads.
- The centre of the pivot pin of a hinge should be half the distance between the face of the door and the outside of the architrave moulding: This positioning ensures the door clears the architrave molding when opened.
- The angle of a dovetail should be no less than one in six: This ensures a strong and secure joint, preventing the dovetails from being too acute and prone to crumbling.
- A dovetail gauge line should be marked 1/32 inch deep to cut the cross fibres of the timber: This ensures a clean and accurate cut for a tight fit.
- A mortise should be cut approximately seven-eighths of the distance through the stile: This technique leaves a clean surface for polishing or varnishing, without exposing the joint.
- The length of the dovetailed keys should be approximately five times their thickness: This provides adequate strength to prevent warping and casting in wide boards.
- A six-pointed pyramid Chinese puzzle is made up of 21 different pieces: Each piece is cut from wood 1/2 inch wide and 1/2 inch thick.
- The Chinese cross puzzle consists of 6 pieces of hardwood, each 4 inches by 1 inch by 1 inch: These pieces must be carefully cut and fitted together to form the cross.
- The diagonal Chinese cross puzzle consists of 6 pieces of hardwood, each 2 1/4 inches long, 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch: These pieces must be cut to precise dimensions and fit together diagonally to form the cross.
- Four square puzzles are made from a 5-inch square piece of 1/8-inch fretwood or plywood: Each puzzle is geometrically designed and consists of 6, 5, 10, or 6 pieces.
Terms:
- Butt Joint: Also known as a rubbed joint or slipped joint, this simple joint involves planing two pieces of timber so they meet flush, then glueing them together.
- Halving: A method of jointing where half the depth of the wood is cut away from each piece, creating a strong and secure connection.
- Bridle Joint: A joint similar in concept to a mortise and tenon, where a tongue is cut into one piece and a corresponding slot is cut into the other.
- Tongued and Grooved Joint: A joint where a projection (the tongue) on one piece fits into a recess (the groove) on the other, creating a tight and secure connection.
- Mortise and Tenon Joint: A joint where a solid projection (the tenon) on one piece fits into a corresponding cavity (the mortise) on the other, creating a strong and stable connection.
- Dowel: A round peg, usually made of wood or metal, used to connect timber pieces, providing additional support and strength to the joint.
- Scarf Joint: A joint used to join timber pieces end-to-end, creating a smooth and flush surface along their length.
- Hinge: A device that allows for movement between two connected pieces, typically using a pin and leaves that pivot.
- Dovetail Joint: A strong and decorative joint using interlocking wedge-shaped pieces, often used for constructing drawers, boxes, and furniture.
- Puzzle Joint: A type of joint that creates a challenging assembly problem, often requiring careful cutting and fitting to solve.
Examples:
- Butt joint for bookcase shelves: A cheaper wood, such as pine, is used for the shelf, with a mahogany or other hardwood slip glued onto the front edge to create a polished finish.
- Halved corner joint for frames: This joint is used for reinforcing frames and is often glued and screwed together.
- Oblique halving joint for strengthening frames: This joint prevents diagonal movement or “racking” in a frame, adding stability and strength.
- Dovetail halving joint for strengthening top rails: This joint uses a dovetail tenon to prevent the rail from being pulled away from the shoulder, providing extra stability.
- Mitred halving joint for mirror frames: This joint is suitable for frames where a neat finish is desired on the face side.
- Tongued and grooved joint for floorboards: This joint creates a secure and tight fit for floorboards, preventing gaps and creating a smooth surface.
- Mortise and tenon joint for door frames: This classic joint is essential for constructing door frames, providing strength and durability.
- Dowelling joint for sideboard tops: Dowels are used to reinforce the joint between the top and bottom pieces, creating a strong and stable connection.
- Scarf joint for lengthening timber: This joint is used to create a continuous piece of timber from two shorter sections, often used for structural purposes.
- Hinged joint for a wardrobe door: A center or pivot hinge is often used on wardrobe doors to allow for smooth and easy opening and closing.
Conclusion:
This 1907 manual, Woodwork Joints: How They Are Set Out, How Made and Where Used, is an invaluable resource for woodworkers of all skill levels. Fairham’s detailed explanations, comprehensive illustrations, and practical insights provide a thorough understanding of various woodworking joints and their applications. From fundamental joints to intricate puzzles, the book offers a wealth of knowledge and guidance for creating strong and durable projects. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced woodworker, this manual is a valuable addition to your woodworking library, offering insights into the history, construction, and applications of classic woodworking joints.